Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Rocky Range, classification section number - 2.8.
2. Kuardjin Tsentr. (2600 m) - Araukhoh Tsentr. (2550 m); traverse.
3. Proposed 3A category of difficulty; first ascent.
4. The nature of the route is rocky.
5. The height difference of the route is up to 150 m. The length of the route is 2200 m. The length of sections with 5 category of difficulty - 2 m. The average steepness of the key sections of the route is 60°. The average steepness of the entire route is 20°.
6. Hooks left on the route - 2.
7. Team's working hours - 8, days - 2.
8. Leader: Egorin Sergey Vladimirovich - MS

Description of the Ascent Route to Arkhon Glavny (4253 m) via the Northeast Ridge, Category 3B Complexity

The Arkhon massif is located in the Tepli group of peaks in the Northeast spur of the Kolota peak (4168 m). Its four peaks, listed in order from Kolota, are named:

• Yuzhny (South)
• Tsentralny (Central)
• Glavny (Main)
• Maly (Small) The first ascent of Glavny Arkhon was made on July 2, 1949, by a group led by Senior Lieutenant German. On July 3, 1949, the ascent was repeated by a group of climbers from the Ordzhonikidze "Medik" Sports Society (led by A. Kalmykov). These ascents were made from the Khardadzhin glacier from the south and are classified as Category 2A. On May 29, 1966, a group of climbers from Ordzhonikidze, led by R. Proskuryakov, made the first ascent of the Northeast ridge of Arkhon Glavny, approaching it from the Kurtatin valley. The group consisted of athletes with 1st sports rank and one with 2nd sports rank. On the same day, a group of third-rank climbers led by N. Alchiev made the first ascent of Arkhon Maly (3942 m) via the Southwest ridge, Category 2B complexity.

Day One

From Ordzhonikidze, travel through the village of Dzuarikau to the Kurtatin valley until the fork of the Fiagdon and Dzamarash-don rivers (2 hours 30 minutes). At the fork, cross the Fiagdon River to the left bank and follow the trail for about 1 km along the river. The trails lead into the first valley to the west.

Route Description for Climbing Arkhon Maly Peak (3942 m)

Category II-B difficulty. The peak is located in the Teplinskaya group of the Front Range of the Greater Caucasus, on the northeastern spur of Kolota, immediately adjacent to the Arkhon Glavny peak (4253 m) to the southwest. The first ascent to Arkhon Maly was made by a group of climbers from Ordzhonikidze led by N. Alchiev on May 29, 1966, from the Fiagdon valley via the southwest ridge. Day I. Traveling from Ordzhonikidze through the Kurtatinskoye gorge to the confluence of the Fiagdon and Dzamarashdon rivers takes 2 hours 30 minutes. Cross the Fiagdon River via a bridge near a watchtower and follow the trail up to the first hanging valley (on the left orographic slope of the gorge). The ascent proceeds up a grassy slope, which becomes quite steep at the top, leading to a moraine hill. The moraine ridge is sharp, with avalanche debris from Glavny Arkhon on both sides. On the first day, the ascent reaches an absolute height of 3000 m. At the junction of the moraine and the slope, a bivouac is set up on a small site. The ascent to the bivouac takes 3 hours. Day II. Depart at 5:00 AM. After proceeding 100 m along the moraine, turn right and ascend the slope to the eastern buttress of the northeastern ridge of Arkhon. Upon reaching the ridge of the buttress:

• form a rope team;
• move up the ridge.

Ascent Record

1. Ascent classification: winter.
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Lateral Ridge, Tsadjiudon gorge.
3. Peak, route: Arkhon Maly (3984 m), via the Northwest Ridge and the right part of the North Face.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 6A winter, first ascent.
5. Height difference:

• 1135 m.
• of which the wall section is 250 m.
• length of the wall section — 255 m.
• total route length — 1680 m.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — first ascent.
2. Ascent area — Tepli-Arkhon massif.
3. Peak — Arkhon Malyy, its height — 3953 m, ascent route — via the Northern wall of the Western ridge.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1300 m, length of sections with 5B-6 difficulty category — 370 m, average steepness 76° (of the wall section).
6. Pitons hammered: | | rock | ice | bolt | stopper | |:---|:---:|:----:|:---:|:-----:| | for belay: | 86 | 3 | 0 | 34 |

Ascent Passport

1. Rock climbing category.
2. Caucasus, Bokovoy Range, Arkhon massif.
3. Arkhon Severny (3571 m); from the West via the North-East ridge.
4. Proposed — 2A category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain: 500 m. Length about 1 km. Average slope on the route is about 30°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock, chocks. 5/0 7/0 Left on the route: rock – 2 (for descent)

Report on the first ascent of Pik Atarbeka Tedeeva, 3239 m via the Northwest Counterfort

Approximately — 1B category of difficulty. Completed by a group of climbers from the Mountain Sports Federation of the Republic of South Ossetia on August 20, 2015, led by Tedeev Tamerlan Taimurazovich. Address: Republic of South Ossetia, Tskhinval, A. Dzhioev Avenue, 114, Tedeev_t@mail.ru +79284848861

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, section number in the classifier 2.8:, south of the Main Caucasian Range, between the Tsidon river gorge to the west and the Djodzhora river gorge to the east.
2. Pik Atarbeka Tedeeva (3239 m), via the Northwest Counterfort.
3. Assumed 1B category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route character — rocky.
5. Route height difference is about 300 m.

28.9

ASCENT DOCUMENTATION

1. Ascent category: COMBINED (rocky in summer)
2. Ascent area: CAUCASUS: 2.8: Tsaziut-don river gorge
3. Peak and route: peak Vladikavkaz (3,600 m): via the North Ridge
4. Expected category of difficulty — 1B, first ascent
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 1,000 m route length — 3,100 m

28.12

Ascent Report

I. Ascent category: rock climbing 2. Ascent area: Caucasus: 2.8: Genaldon River valley 3. Peak, route: p. Geodesist (4138 m): West ridge 4. Expected category of difficulty: 1B rock climbing: first ascent 5. Route description: elevation gain — 1700 m route length — 2200 m length of sections: 2nd category of difficulty — 100 m

REPORT

on the ascent to Mt. "Dzhailyk" (4533 m) via the Southwest Counterfort of the Western Ridge by the Dzhailyk Alpine Camp team (first ascent) Team leader — Ivanov Alexander Vasilyevich Team coach — Popov Viktor Pavlovich 1983 Alpine Camp "Dzhailyk" 360 000 Nalchik, P.O. Box 47 Team leader — Ivanov Alexander Vasilyevich 141 400 Moscow Region, Khimki, Aptechnaya St., 6, apt. 17 Team coach — Popov Viktor Pavlovich