St. Petersburg Alpine Championship 2012

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Erydag via the 3rd "well" of the 3rd wall and along the SW ridge, rocky 2696 m (A. Dubovikov's route, 1981) 5A cat. difficulty of the alpclub "Bars" team (St. Petersburg) July 13, 2012

• Leader: Vorobyev K.P.
• Participant: Khudyakov A.
• Team Coach: Semiletkin S.A. St. Petersburg 2010

Climbing Report

To the summit of Erydag (3925 m) via the center of the left part of the 3rd wall (A. Nekrasov's route, 1986, 5A category of complexity) The route was completed on April 29, 2023, by the team of Alpine Club "Bars" (St. Petersburg):

• Nikolai Yakuba
• Denis Chetverikov
• Natalia Tsareva

Contents

1. Climbing Passport — 3
2. Route Description — 5
3. Tactical Actions of the Team — 6

ASCENT PASSPORT

I. Ascent class: rock 2. Ascent area, ridge: East Caucasus 3. Summit, its height, ascent route: I-ya Zapadnaya Yarydag via left edge of Western wall (Polyakov's route) 4200 m 3rd ascent. 4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B 5. Route characteristics: height difference 820 m Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category 456 m, 6 difficulty category — 90 m, average steepness 78°. 6. Pitons used: for belaying: chocks 56, rock 108, ice 0, bolt 3. for creating artificial anchors: rock — IX, ice — 0, bolt — 0.

ASCENT REPORT

I. Climbing category: rock climbing 2. Climbing area: Eridag ridge, Chekhychay gorge. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route, route characteristics: Eridag, 3925 m, via the left edge of the Western wall (A. Polyakov's route, variation), rock climbing. 4. Category complexity 5B, second ascent of the variation. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1100 m, length — 2165 m. Length of sections: 6th cat. diff. — 453 m, 5th cat. diff. — 440 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 73°. 6. Number of pitons driven: 7. Number of climbing hours — 12 h 45 min.

PASSPORT

I. Category of first ascents 2. Caucasus, Eastern, Yarydag 3. Peak Yarydag, through the center of the Western wall via "feathers" 4. Assumed to be 5B category difficulty (first ascent) 5. Elevation difference of the wall part of the route — 530 m, length of the wall part of the route — 740 m (including traverses). Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 390 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 70°, including 6 category difficulty — 92° (95 m)

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Belukha (V), 4506 m via the right part of the northwest wall (3rd passage, approximately 5B cat. sl.) by the team of the Altai Regional Sports Committee. Coaches: Plotnikov I.A. — Master of Sports of International Class, Kuznetsov N.A. — Candidate Master of Sports 1996 year

Passport

1. Ice and snow class
2. Altai, Katunsky ridge, Akkem valley
3. Belukha (V) summit — 4506 m via the right part of the NW wall, combined route
4. Proposed — 5B cat. sl., 3rd passage
5. Height difference: 1306 m, total length — 1800 m

Ascent Passport

1. Technical category
2. Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge
3. Dalar via the north-eastern wall of the bastion (Korablin's route)
4. Proposed 6A category of difficulty
5. Height difference: 910 m, of which 490 m is the wall section; total route length is 1330 m, of which 540 m is the wall section. Length of sections: 5th category of difficulty — 280 m 6th category of difficulty — 180 m
6. Average steepness of the wall section — 68°

Passport

I class — snow-ice 2. Main Caucasian Range, Adyrsu river gorge 3. V. Ullutau via the north face of the eastern shoulder (D. Chernoslvin's route) — 4058 m. 4. Difficulty category — 5B. 5. Height difference 950 m, length — 1020 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 230 m. Average steepness of the ice part of the route 50°, rocky part — 65°. 6. Pitons hammered: rock — 62, chocks — 46, ice screws — 102. 7. Climbing hours — 16.5 hours. 8. Overnight stay — snow platform on the ridge. 9. Leader — Andryushkevich Konstantin Ivanovich, CMS. Participants — Panarin Nikolai Dmitrievich, CMS, Foigt Alexander Vadimovich, CMS, Chan-syan Anatoly Vladimirovich, CMS.

Passport

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Central Caucasus.
3. Ushba South peak (4710) via the left part of the Southwest wall (Myshlyaev's route).
4. Proposed 5B category of difficulty, second ascent.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1460 m (3250 m — 4710 m); length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 810 m; average steepness of main sections —
6. Pitons hammered:

PASSPORT

1. Climbing category — technical
2. Climbing region — Tian Shan, Terskey Ala-Too range.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Jigit, 5170 m, via the center of the large triangle of the North face.
4. Difficulty category — 6
5. Route characteristics: route length — 940 m, height difference from the bergschrund to the ridge — 870 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 515 m, average steepness of the wall — 70°
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 64, chocks — 54, ice screws — 37.
7. Team's travel hours: 24 hours and 2 days.
8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: 1 sitting bivouac, carved in rock covered with ice.