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Route Description: правому кф. В стены
SSummitMate### First Ascent of Akademik Kalesnik Peak via the Eastern Wall Counterfort, Category 3B Difficulty Detailed description of the route and necessary equipment for the ascent.
DESCRIPTION
First ascent to the peak of Akademik Kalesnik via the buttress of the eastern wall, approximately category 3B difficulty. From the base camp, located on the upper forest boundary, on the right (orographically) bank of the Amanauz River, ascend the gorge through thickets of birch, willow, raspberry, and rhododendrons. After the vegetation ends, cross to the left (orographically) bank of the Amanauz River. Then, with a gradual gain in altitude, move towards the sharp black moraine. Before reaching it, turn sharply to the right and move towards the gap in the "ram's foreheads". Ascend a wide couloir with scree and a stream to the tongue of the glacier. The glacier tongue is at an altitude of 2700–2750 m. Then, exit to the right, beyond the rocky ridge, gaining altitude, and reach a snowy slope with a steepness of 35–45°. Move straight up this snowy slope for 400 m, then exit to the left through the rocky ridge onto the glacier. Then, ascend a steep ice-and-snow slope of the glacier for 600 m on crampons. The slope's steepness is 50–55°. Move in rope teams, using the entire rope! The slope leads to the upper plateau of the glacier. The altitude of the upper plateau is 3000 m. Then, traverse 500 m across the glacier towards the wall of peak Akademik Kalesnik. The slope's steepness increases after the first 500 m and reaches 15–20° for the next 500 m. The last 100 m have a sharply increasing steepness, reaching 50–55°. In front of the wall, there is a very wide randkluft, which is a serious obstacle on the way to the wall. It is necessary to descend into the randkluft and then start working on the wall at a depth of 8–10 m from the upper edge of the randkluft.
Route Description: Ю гребню с пер. Караджаш
SSummitMateDescription of the first ascent to the unnamed peak 3130 m in the Sofiyskiy area of Arkhyz along the southern ridge from Karadjasch pass, difficulty category 2A.
February 22, 1982
ASCENT DOCUMENT
| ASCENT CLASS | — Rock climbing |
|---|---|
| ASCENT AREA | — Western Caucasus, Northwestern spur of the Sofiyskiy ridge to the north from the Karadjasch pass, 3130 m |
| PEAK, ROUTE | — "BATAK" (proposed by the first ascenders) via the southern ridge from the Karadjasch pass |
| EXPECTED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY | — 2A |
| ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS | — Ridge route, absolute elevation gain 330 m |
| NUMBER OF PITS SET | — 2 (on the ascent) |
| DURATION OF THE ASCENT | — 3.5 hours |
Route Description: правому СЗ кф.
SSummitMateAscent to the Valentral peak via the right northwestern buttress, category of difficulty 3B, route length 550 m, 6.5 hours of walking time.
Ascent
- CLASS OF ASCENT: rock
- ASCENT AREA: Arkhyz, Stavropol Krai, from the Kardyvach mountain area to Marukh pass.
- PEAK NAME AND ASCENT ROUTE: peak Velintral, ZIU M., via the right northwest counterfort.
- ASSUMED CATEGORY OF DIFFICULTY: 3B — 3B, 35 m.
- 320 m average steepness
- 550 route length: cat. diff. I 23456 m. no 203208040 no
Route Description: СВ гребню
SSummitMateDescription of a 3A category rock climbing ascent to a summit in the Sofiyskiy ridge area, Western Caucasus, completed in January 1982.
| CLIMBING CLASS | — rock |
|---|---|
| CLIMBING AREA | — Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, northern spur of the Sofiyskiy ridge between the valleys of the Pshysh and Sofiya rivers |
| PEAK, ROUTE | |
| ASSUMED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY | — 3A (winter) |
| ROUTE CHARACTERISTIC | — rock, ridge, absolute height difference 600 m |
Route Description: ЮВ кулуару и С гребню
SSummitMateFirst ascent description of an unnamed 3171 m peak on the Sofiyskiy ridge, Western Caucasus, via the north-eastern ridge, category 2B.
ASCENT DOCUMENT
283 PV February 22, 1983 55 2149
| ASCENT CLASS | Rock |
|---|---|
| ASCENT AREA | Western Caucasus, North-Western spur of the Sofiyskiy ridge between Psysh and Sofiya river valleys. |
| PEAK, ROUTE | XIX Congress of VLKSM (first ascenders' proposal) via South-Eastern couloir and North-Eastern ridge. |
| PROPOSED GRADE | 2B |
| ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS | Combined (snow and rock), absolute height difference — 450 m. |
| PITONS DRIVEN | 5 (during ascent) |
Route Description: СВ гребню
SSummitMateReport on the first ascent of the route of 3B category of difficulty to the top of Kara-Jash (3171 m) by the North-Eastern ridge in the Western Caucasus.
Kara-Djash peak (3171 m). Route: via the north-eastern ridge. Category of difficulty: 3B cat. diff. (combined). Leader: K. Shustov. Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Orlenok gully, Kara-Djash mountain range. Section in KMGV — 2.1. E-mail — ZHUR58@RAMBLER.RU
Report
On the first ascent of the alpinist route to the Kara-Djash peak (3171 m) "via the north-eastern ridge (combined)". At the year-round alpine event, competition in mountaineering NP "Club of Northern Travels "Sauk-Pai" 2013 — "Cup of Victory" (class "First Ascents").
Region: Karachay-Cherkess Republic. Mountain range: Western Caucasus. Gully: Orlenok. Mountain range: Kara-Djash. Peak: Kara-Djash (3171). Route: via the north-eastern ridge. Level of difficulty: 3B cat. diff. (combined). Prepared by: K. Shustov, S. Zhuravlev. May, 2013.
Description of the peak
Kara-Djash peak (3171) is a nodal peak of the Kara-Djash mountain range. Located on the territory of the Caucasian Federal District of the Russian Federation, in the Karachay-Cherkess Republic, Arkhyz mountain region (Orlenok gully), between the rivers:
- Psyish
- Sofia
Route Description: ЮВ стене
SSummitMateDescription of the 4A category complexity rock climbing route to the summit "40 лет НРБ" (3201 m) in the Western Caucasus, including a detailed description of the ascent and descent paths, recommendations, and required equipment.
Ascent Passport
| Climbing Category | — | Rock climbing |
|---|---|---|
| Climbing Area | — | Western Caucasus, North-West spur of Sofiyskiy ridge between Pshish and Sofiya rivers. |
| Expected Difficulty Category | 4A | |
| Route Characteristics | — | Rock climbing, absolute height difference 320 m. |
| Pitons hammered, chocks placed | — | 34 |
| Number of climbing hours | — | 7 |
| Number of overnight stays | — | The route is completed within daylight hours |
| Climbing Team Leader | Fedorov B.V. — 1st sports category, 357748 Kislovodsk, Pomenko st. 108–9. |
Description of traversing the ridge with ascents to the Kara-Jash and other peaks, complexity category 3.4, with illustrations and route excerpts.
Bugaratov Ksenets, Arasi, Valia Orgenei Vershye — 2006 (Kara-Dezhi N-E),
Kara-Dezhi (3171), 3178 — 3201 (NRB), 3226 (Turgene, Denisphona) (3227) Route:
"Tramers mershin 2006 (Kara-Dezhi N-E) — Kara-Dezhi (3171) 3178 — 3201 (NRB)"
Krovec, Illyandota, 44 c.c. (Klaboporgonizsy) Photo from balia Orgenei — Third
section promerce — route 3.4
c.c.
passing the central part of the traverse — Kara-Jash — 3170 — 3201 (NRB)
Route Description: 3 гребню
SSummitMateDescription of the first ascent route to the peak Uzlovaya - Kardyvach via the western ridge, category 2A, climbed by a group of the Krasnodar Regional Alpinism Federation in 1972.
Description
The route of the first ascent to the peak Uzlovaya - Kardyvach via the Western ridge by the group of the Krasnodar regional Federation of alpinism DSO "Burevestnik" in May 1972.
Approach to the initial bivouac
From the city of Adler to the Risha lake - by bus. Then to the Avadhara settlement 4-5 hours walk or 30 minutes by car (depending on road conditions). Overnight stay. Departure from the Avadhara settlement at 4-5 am to reach the south-eastern slopes of the Kuta-teku False pass before sunrise. 1.5-2 hours walk. Then ascent along the pronounced rib directly along the route. Snow slopes with a steepness of 25-30°. After ascending to the ridge, turn right to the Kuta-teku pass. Ascent to the pass takes 3-4 hours. Possible bivouac site. Then descend from the pass along a snowy slope with a steepness of 45°. Two ropes. Then the slope is 20-25°. Descend to the forest. At the entrance to it, turn left and traverse the slope. Follow the stream leading to the Kardyvach lake. Convenient and safe bivouac site. From the Kardyvach lake bivouac, head south through the forest, along the left (orographic) bank of the Lagyernaya river, to a wide snowy chute. Up the chute and then left to a vaguely expressed rib leading to the western ridge of the Uzlovaya - Kardyvach peak. Reach the ridge at a point without a cornice. From the base camp 1.5-2 hours. R0-R1.
Description of the ascent route
Route Description: ЮВ гребню
SSummitMateReport on the ascent of a group of climbers to the peak Kardivach-Uzlovaya via the north-eastern ridge in 1975, describing a category 2B complexity route.
19 22
REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF KARDYVACH-UZLOVAYA VIA THE SOUTHEAST RIDGE ON OCTOBER 21–22, 1975, BY A GROUP FROM THE KUBAN REGIONAL COUNCIL OF THE "BUREVESTNIK" SPORTS SOCIETY
I. GEOGRAPHICAL INFORMATION AND SPORTS CHARACTERISTICS OF THE AREA
The Kardyвач lake area is located at the junction of:
- The Main Caucasian Range
- The Gagra Range All peaks of sporting interest are part of the Main Caucasian Range. At the junction of the mentioned ranges stands the peak Kardyвач-Uzlovaya, elevation 3020 m. To its south lies the peak Kardyвач-Glavnaya, and to the north, there are five peaks of the Tsyndyshхо massif, Smidovich peak, and the peak Layub, situated in a spur of the Main Caucasian Range extending south towards the Gagra Range. The elevation of the peaks in the area exceeds 3000 m above sea level, with the highest peak being Smidovich peak at 3359 m.