Route on the Left Buttress and Central Edge of the Eastern Wall of Sonuti

“The route is combined, category 4B difficulty.” The path from the KSP of the Tsey district to the initial bivouac at the Volginsky nochyovki. From the Volginsky nochyovki, “depart at 3–4 am due to rockfall in the lower part of the route,” cross the snowy plateau of the Uilpatinsky glacier to the left and upwards towards the Left Buttress of the Eastern wall of Sonuti peak. To the left of the buttress, there are ice collapses at the top. From the plateau, after passing the bergschrund, ascend a steep snowy-ice slope “possible ice collapse” to the rocks of the Left Buttress. From here, straight up through 120 meters of simple, heavily destroyed, snow-covered rocks. Then, ascend 150 m through steep, moderately difficult, destroyed rocks of the Left Buttress to the first rocky islands in the right ice-snow couloir descending from the saddle with a small lake on the Southwest ridge from under the wall of the South tower of Sonuti. Further, traverse to the right “pitons for protection” through the ice-snow couloir “rockfall, avalanches,” then through moderately difficult rocks of the Left Edge of the Eastern wall of Sonuti. After passing a platform, through monolithic rocks, approach the second steep ice couloir and traverse to the right and upwards through this couloir “possible rockfall” to the rocks on the left side of the Central Edge of the Eastern wall. Through monolithic rocks of medium and above-medium difficulty on the left side of the Central Edge, ascend 150 m “pitons for protection” to a platform. From the Volginsky nochyovki, 6–8 hours. From the platform, 150 m through medium and above-medium difficulty rocks with numerous holds on the left side of the Central Edge “pitons for protection” upwards to a shoulder. From the shoulder, across a sharp snowy ridge, move left to the rocks on the right side of the Left Edge.

¹

1. False summit
2. Main summit
3. "Black gendarme"
4. Shelf
5. II ridge connector
6. I ridge connector
7. Overhanging rock in couloir

IV SW ridge III Route Sections: R1, R2, R3, R4, R5, R6, R7, R8, R9, R10, R11, R12, R13, R14, R15, R16, R17, R18, R19, R20, R21, R22, R23, R24, R25, R26, R27, R28, R29 Section Descriptions:

• 50 m 50° 3
• 20 m 60° 3
• 30 m 50° 3
• 40 m 50° 3

SONGUTI UP THE LEFT BUTTRESS OF THE CENTRAL EDGE IV Zhand. SOUTH TOWER BLACK ZHANDARM MAL. ZHAND. R1, R2, R3+, R4, R5+, R6–R23, R25–R28

SON-GUTI UP THE RIGHT BUTTRESS OF THE EASTERN WALL, 5A R1: 300 m, diff. cat. 2 R2: 60 m, diff. cat. 1 R3: 500 m, diff. cat. 2+ R4: 25 m, diff. cat. 2 R5: 80 m, diff. cat. 4 R6: 200 m, diff. cat. 5 R7: 100 m, diff. cat. 5

II. Ascent Log

1. ASCENT CLASS — TECHNICAL
2. ASCENT REGION — 2.7
3. PEAK — MALAYA SONGUTI, 3800 m, VIA NORTHERN BUTTRESS OF NORTH FACE
4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 3B
5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: ELEVATION GAIN — 450 m. AVERAGE STEEPNESS — 40°. SECTION LENGTHS I — 150 m, II — 300 m, III — 200 m, IV — 105 m.

Tur­khokh

Tur­khokh peak (4110 m) is lo­cated in the north­east part of the Tsey range, be­tween Pik Poyasova (over the Ula g pass) to the west and (over the Rodina pass) the Tsey peak to the east. Tur­khokh stands as a sep­a­rate rocky tow­er in the range be­tween two cols. The Rodina glacier lies be­neath the south­ern slopes of the peak, and the Doni­sar­tseti glacier be­neath the north­ern ones. The peak is tech­ni­cally sim­ple, heav­ily de­graded. The only route was first as­cended on 17 Au­gust 1934 by:

• I. An­to­no­vich,
• A. Zo­lo­tarev,
• D. Dons­koy,

Fig. 30 — at the barob, SSKauuny, 15. The path from the CSP of the Tsey region or the village of Dzanaga (group of 420 people) to the initial bivouac on the upper plateau of the Western branch of the Karaugom plateau, under the northern slopes of Uvarov peak, is described in route 83. From the initial bivouac (closed crevasses) along the snowy plateau approach the northern slope of Uvarov peak. From the plateau, along the snowy slope reach the bergschrund and, overcoming it along a snow bridge - Along the snowy, almost horizontal ridge of the shoulder (cornices), then along the sharp steep snowy ridge (cornices - insurance) exit to the third shoulder. From here along the gently sloping, wide, местами острому (кар­ни­зы), then along the steep left-snowy Northern

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — ice and snow.
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Tsey Range.
3. Peak, route: Uilpata, via the left part of the southern ice slope.
4. Expected category of difficulty, 3B — first ascent.
5. Height difference: 900 m,
   • including 500 m of wall section,
   • total route length — about 800 m (wall section),
   • average steepness of the route — 35°,
   • steepness of the wall section — 45°.

Report

On the Third Ascent of the Route to the Summit of Khelda (2nd Zapadnaya) via the South-West Wall (V. Kuznetsov's Route)

Alpinist Camp "Adyl-Su" 1978

Table of Main Characteristics of the Ascent Route to the Summit 2nd Zapadnaya Shkhelda