Tur­khokh

Tur­khokh peak (4110 m) is lo­cated in the north­east part of the Tsey range, be­tween Pik Poyasova (over the Ula g pass) to the west and (over the Rodina pass) the Tsey peak to the east. Tur­khokh stands as a sep­a­rate rocky tow­er in the range be­tween two cols. The Rodina glacier lies be­neath the south­ern slopes of the peak, and the Doni­sar­tseti glacier be­neath the north­ern ones. The peak is tech­ni­cally sim­ple, heav­ily de­graded.

The only route was first as­cended on 17 Au­gust 1934 by:

• I. An­to­no­vich,
• A. Zo­lo­tarev,
• D. Dons­koy,
• V. Kor­zun,
• P. Ku­ri­lov.

154. Tur­khokh via the East Ridge (Cat. 1B route, Fig. 33).

The path from the KSP Tsey area to the Rodina pass (group of 4–12 peo­ple) with an ini­tial bi­vouac on the scree be­neath the Rodina glacier is de­scribed in route 153.

At the Rodina pass, turn left and ap­proach the East Ridge of Tur­khokh peak. From here, as­cend a steep snow, and fur­ther rocky couloir on the right-hand side of the East Ridge. Then move onto the ridge and as­cend sim­ple rocky ter­rain of the de­graded 70–90-me­tre East Ridge to the sum­mit of Tur­khokh. From the ini­tial bi­vouac, 3–4 hours.

De­scent fol­lows the as­cent route. Na­umov A. F. Karaugom, Di­go­ria, Tsey (Cen­tral Cau­ca­sus), M., ‘Fizkul’tura i sport’, 1976.

| :--: | :--: |