REPORT

On Ascent to Lenin Peak 7134 m via the South-West Ridge of the Western Crest (First Ascent of the Route)

1. ASCENT DETAILS

1. Region: Zaalaysky Range (Pamir). Valley: Malaya Saukdara. Section number according to the classification table – 4.4
2. Name of the peak: Lenin Peak. Name of the route: via the South-West Ridge of the Western Crest.
3. Proposed category: 5A, first ascent.
4. Route characteristics: snow-ice.
5. Height difference on the route: 1134 m (by GPS).

Climbing Report: Lenin Peak (7134) via the West Ridge from Malaya Saukdara Glacier

1. Climbing Passport

Region: Trans-Alay Range (North Pamir). Valley: Sauksay. Classification category according to the 2013 table – 4.4. Peak name: Lenin Peak. Route name: via the West Ridge from Malaya Saukdara Glacier. Proposed category – 5A. Route type: ice and snow. Route elevation gain: 2360 m (by altimeter). Team's total climbing hours: 24 hours, 3 days. Team leader: Andrei Alexandrovich Lebedev (Moscow), Master of Sports of International Class in Tourism. Team members:

• Alexei Alexandrovich Vorobyev (Podolsk)
• Andrei Viktorovich Zharov (Moscow, Zelenograd)
• Ivan Nikolaevich Zhdanov (Moscow)
• Bogdan Dmitrievich Savchinskiy (Kiev)
• Alexei Sergeevich Timoshenkov (Moscow, Zelenograd)

which is bypassed on the left with careful belaying — there is a control cairn on the site. From the site, we go up to the next pillar with a broken wall along the chimney, about 20 m high and up to 80° steep. The most difficult section is climbed with careful belaying. We go up the wall to the ridge of the pillar to the left, then descend into a small gap between the pillars and climb up to the next pillar along the crevice to the right. A number of pillars are climbed straight on, along medium-difficulty rocks with careful belaying. Caution is required when traversing ridge sections as there are loose stones. Approximately in the middle of the route, there is a pillar with an internal corner and a wall, about 15 m high and 80° steep. The difficult section is climbed with careful belaying. The exit is up the wall to the right, then up along the corner to the left. The exit is into a gap between the next pillar, which has a small wall (3–6 m) ending in an inclined smooth slab. The exit is onto a sharp rocky ridge about 20 m long, where the second control cairn is located. Further, the path goes along a steep snowy couloir, 60–65° steep (ice is possible). Keeping to the left and then to the right side of the couloir, along the rocks, we come out onto the forepeak, where there is a place for organizing an overnight stay. From the forepeak, the path goes along a gentle snowy slope to the summit. The height according to the aviation altimeter is 5150 m. The entire route takes 10–11 hours. The descent along the steep snowy-icy slope to the north is very difficult and is traversed with careful belaying. The slope is avalanche-prone

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Pamir, Zaalai Ridge (section 4.4 p. 50 KMGV).
2. Route: Petrovskogo peak (4700 m), from Achik-Tash gorge (A. Zaidler, 1966).
3. Category: 1B
4. Route characteristics: the route is combined.
5. Height difference of the route: 1500 m.
6. Route length: 2500 m.
7. Average slope of the main part: 30°.
8. Climbing hours on the route: – 10 hours.

Report on the First Ascent of the Route to Peak Petrovsky (4700 m) via the North Face.

Climbing Details

1. Pamir. Trans-Alay Range. Peak Petrovsky 4700 m. Presumed 5A category, first ascent. Route type — ice. Route elevation gain — 750 m. Route length — 950 m.
2. Section lengths: II — 50 m, III — 200 m, IV — 445 m, V — 245 m, V+ — 10 m.
3. Average slope: main part of the route — 55°.
4. Pitons left on the route: total — 0;

Report on the First Ascent of Petrovskogo Peak (4700 m) via the Southwest Ridge

Climbing Report

Climbing Details

1. Pamir. Trans-Alay Range. Petrovskogo Peak 4700 m. Assumed category 4B, first ascent. Rock climbing. Height difference: 600 m. Route length (wall section): 900 m.
2. Section lengths: II–III — 700 m, IV — 150 m, V — 50 m
3. Average slope: main part of the route — 40°.
4. Number of pitons left on the route: total — 0;

Report on the ascent of Peak "50 лет ВЛКСМ" (5801 m) via the eastern edge (first ascent) by the sports group of the Tomsk Alpinade Khrebet Kommunarov June–August 1968 Group leader (E.F. Kharchenko) Team coach (G.G. Andreev) Tomsk 1968

1. General Information

"APPROVED" Head of the 4th Department of the Turkestan Military District, Lieutenant Colonel (Yas'kov) "10" October 1954 DESCRIPTION OF THE FIRST TRAVERSE OF THE LENIN PEAK MASSIF (7134 m). The first high-altitude traverse of the Lenin Peak massif was carried out by a group of climbers from the Turkestan Military District and the Uzbek Committee of Physical Culture, consisting of V. A. Kovalev (leader of the traverse), E. I. Nagel, and V. N. Naryshkin (all - TurkVO), P. M. Karpov, and V. K. Nozdryukhin (Committee of Physical Culture and Sports of the Uzbek SSR) over 7 days, from August 28 to September 3, 1954. The traverse of a seven-thousand-meter peak was first undertaken and accomplished by Soviet climbers. From the summit of Lenin Peak, a note from the 1950 ascenders - a team of climbers from the TurkVO - and a broken plaster bust of V. I. Lenin, wrapped in a red flannel shirt, left on the summit by the 1934 ascenders, were retrieved.

Passport

1. Snow and ice class.
2. Pamir, West Zaalai.
3. Proposed 4A category of complexity, first ascent.
4. Height 5900 m.
5. Height difference 1650 m.
6. Travel time - 3 days ascent, 1 day descent.
7. Bratkov Yu.N., 6GU, 4th with elements of 5th GR, leader, Belov A.A., 4th with elements of 5th GU, Kondratiev V.L., 5GU, Roshchin P.A., el. 5GU.
8. August 1995.
9. The ascent was made as part of a sports mountain trip.

5 Imakouk

4533 m Hovebka №2 4350 m R19

• R17
• R18 R16
• R14­–R15
• R12­–R8