Description

First ascent of Musa Jalil Peak, category 38, via the eastern ridge by the sports group of the 3rd Anniversary Alpinada of the Tatar ASSR in the Lenin Peak area. Group composition:

1. Yagafarov V.P.
2. Krylov V.N.
3. Faseev K.S.
4. Penkov G.A.
5. Yagafarov I.K.
6. Labutina T.E.

Recreational Climbing in Achik-Tash. Peak Musa Dzhalil via the North Face.

Alpinism, Report, Pamir By khomenyuk, Today at 15:07 On August 31, 2017, we successfully completed a first ascent via the north face of Peak Musa Dzhalil (4800 m, according to the classifier). From the Ak-Sai Travel base camp in Achik-Tash, we reached the summit and returned in ten and a half hours. We thoroughly enjoyed the route. In anticipation of the new season, I'm sharing a detailed description of the route.

Ascent Details

1. Pamir, Trans-Alay Range, Achik-Tash valley, category 4.4 according to the 2017 classification table.
2. Peak Musa Dzhalil, 4800 m, via the North face.
3. Proposed category — 3B, first ascent.
4. Route type: ice and snow.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Pamir, Zaalai Ridge (section 4.4 p. 50 KMGV).
2. Route: Petrovskogo peak (4700 m), from Achik-Tash gorge (A. Zaidler, 1966).
3. Category: 1B
4. Route characteristics: the route is combined.
5. Height difference of the route: 1500 m.
6. Route length: 2500 m.
7. Average slope of the main part: 30°.
8. Climbing hours on the route: – 10 hours.

Ascent Passport

1. Pamir, Zaalaysky ridge (section 4.4, p. 51 KMGV).
2. Route: Petrovskogo peak (4700 m), From the ridge from the pass from Dzipak peak (G. Starikov, 1967).
3. Complexity category: 3B.
4. Route characteristics: the route is combined.
5. Height difference of the route: 450 m.
6. Route length: 1350 m.
7. Length of sections with 3rd category complexity: 400 m.
8. Average steepness of the main part: 40°.
9. Maximum steepness: 45°.

Report on the First Ascent of the Route to Peak Petrovsky (4700 m) via the North Face.

Climbing Details

1. Pamir. Trans-Alay Range. Peak Petrovsky 4700 m. Presumed 5A category, first ascent. Route type — ice. Route elevation gain — 750 m. Route length — 950 m.
2. Section lengths: II — 50 m, III — 200 m, IV — 445 m, V — 245 m, V+ — 10 m.
3. Average slope: main part of the route — 55°.
4. Pitons left on the route: total — 0;

Report on the ascent of Peak "50 лет ВЛКСМ" (5801 m) via the eastern edge (first ascent) by the sports group of the Tomsk Alpinade Khrebet Kommunarov June–August 1968 Group leader (E.F. Kharchenko) Team coach (G.G. Andreev) Tomsk 1968

1. General Information

"APPROVED" Head of the 4th Department of the Turkestan Military District, Lieutenant Colonel (Yas'kov) "10" October 1954 DESCRIPTION OF THE FIRST TRAVERSE OF THE LENIN PEAK MASSIF (7134 m). The first high-altitude traverse of the Lenin Peak massif was carried out by a group of climbers from the Turkestan Military District and the Uzbek Committee of Physical Culture, consisting of V. A. Kovalev (leader of the traverse), E. I. Nagel, and V. N. Naryshkin (all - TurkVO), P. M. Karpov, and V. K. Nozdryukhin (Committee of Physical Culture and Sports of the Uzbek SSR) over 7 days, from August 28 to September 3, 1954. The traverse of a seven-thousand-meter peak was first undertaken and accomplished by Soviet climbers. From the summit of Lenin Peak, a note from the 1950 ascenders - a team of climbers from the TurkVO - and a broken plaster bust of V. I. Lenin, wrapped in a red flannel shirt, left on the summit by the 1934 ascenders, were retrieved.

Passport

1. Snow and ice class.
2. Pamir, West Zaalai.
3. Proposed 4A category of complexity, first ascent.
4. Height 5900 m.
5. Height difference 1650 m.
6. Travel time - 3 days ascent, 1 day descent.
7. Bratkov Yu.N., 6GU, 4th with elements of 5th GR, leader, Belov A.A., 4th with elements of 5th GU, Kondratiev V.L., 5GU, Roshchin P.A., el. 5GU.
8. August 1995.
9. The ascent was made as part of a sports mountain trip.

4.4.72

Ascent to Peak Ya.M. Sverdlov via the northern ridge (1B cat. diff.). Trans-Alai Range, Pamir. 1967. Description compiled by V. Masyukov.

1. Introduction

In the summer season of 1967, a comprehensive high-altitude mountaineering expedition of the MGS SDSO "Burevestnik" took place in Pamir. Over the course of July and August, the expedition participants carried out a series of ascents in both the Pamir region and Tian Shan. Before commencing work in Tian Shan, a 10-day training and acclimatization gathering was held in the area of the "Ala-Archa" mountaineering camp, which greatly benefited the subsequent high-altitude ascents. After completing a jubilee ascent in honor of the 50th anniversary of the Great October Revolution to Peak Lenin, the expedition relocated to the district center of Darut-Kurgan, from where the participants were to be airlifted by helicopter to the upper reaches of the Forgambek glacier beneath the Big Pamir Firn Plateau, with plans to ascend to the plateau from the north and climb Peak Kommunizma via a new route. Looking ahead, it can be said that this plan was not fully realized due to circumstances beyond the control of the expedition participants. The "Burevestnik" mountaineers pioneered a path to the Big Pamir Firn Plateau from the north and also assisted a parachute landing party that made a unique group jump onto the plateau at an altitude of 6000 m. Thus, the delay with the helicopter in Darut-Kurgan and the established weather conditions allowed two groups of mountaineers from the expedition to ascend Peak Ya.M. Sverdlov from the Alтын-Dara valley via a new route.

Central Council of the Spartak Sports Society

Report

on the ascent of Peak OGPU via the right central wall (first ascent). Nalchik, 1968

Brief information about the object and the ascent area

Peak OGPU is located in the Central Pamir in the upper reaches of the Bivachny Glacier (see diagram). The area is frequently visited by mountaineering expeditions and is fairly well-studied both geographically and in terms of mountaineering. However, the only ascent to Peak OGPU was made in 1966 by a team from the Central Council of Spartak led by A. Kustovsky via the North wall with an exit to the northeast counterfort (see photo No. 1). Peak OGPU, despite its relatively low height (6055 m), impresses everyone with its:

• beauty;
• grandeur;
• steep walls that rise to the summit from almost all sides. The easiest route to the summit is the descent route taken by Kustovsky's group (4B–5B category of difficulty):