Passport

1. Rock class
2. Tian-Shan, Ayuter gorge
3. Peak Mendeleevets along the left edge of the Northern wall of the triangle
4. 5B category of difficulty
5. Height difference: 840 m, length with the summit ridge - 1300 m, length of sections 5–6 category of difficulty - 380 m. Average steepness of main sections 75° (3400–3950), of which 5 category of difficulty 82° (3600–3950).
6. Pitons hammered:
   • rock: 102
   • bolt: 20
   • chocks: –

PASSPORT

1. Climbing category — ROCK CLIMB
2. Climbing area — Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge
3. Peak, height, ascent route: MENDELEEVETS, 4122 m, via CENTER OF THE NORTH FACE TRIANGLE.
4. Difficulty category — 5B (approximate). pr. 588, #6
5. Route characteristics: the wall section of the route is 583 m long, height difference is 1000 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category is 377 m, wall steepness — 68°
6. Pitons used: rock pitons 122/11, chocks 50/4, bolt pitons 2/0
7. Total climbing time — 20 hours, including 15 hours on the wall and 3 days.
8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: one lying bivouac in a tent.
9. Team composition:

ASCENT RECORD

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area — Central Tien Shan.
3. Peak — Orto-Choku Eastern, height — 4000 m, ascent route — from the southeast.
4. Difficulty category — 3A.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 400 m, average steepness — 40°.
6. Pitons driven — 7 pcs.
7. Total climbing hours — 11.
8. Group composition:

Route Description

for ascending Peak Tamma via the Southwest Ridge, Terskey Range, route category 2B, under the guidance of Salazko M.N., August 23, 1976. After leaving the Ala-Too alpine camp, cross the Oyuntyor River and follow the trail on its orographic left side upstream for 1.5 hours. Then, cross to the other bank via a large scree slope that blocks the river, and continue upstream along the trail for 20 minutes until you reach a visible stream flowing down the slope, which occasionally forms a waterfall. Leaving the waterfall on the left, ascend along the boundary between the grass and scree (there is a cairn along the way). After 1 hour of ascent, move along the grassy ledges into the couloir between two ridges that later form the Southwest Ridge of Peak Tamma. When ascending the couloir, be cautious on the rocky outcrops (smooth slabs with loose rocks). After 1.5 hours of movement from the river, approach a clearly visible 40-meter internal angle (1st control cairn). R1: traverse the internal angle with occasional protection, then use rock projections for protection to climb a 5-meter wall with a deep cleft (2nd control cairn). R2: continue along the ridge simultaneously, occasionally using variable protection through rock projections and piton protection. The ridge is sharp with characteristic feather-like gendarmes, deep fractures, and slabs. Movement along the ridge takes 2.5–3 hours. R3: the ridge then transitions into a rocky slope. Moving simultaneously along this slope, reach the pre-summit ridge and the summit in 30–40 minutes. Be cautious on the rocky slope due to numerous loose rocks. Descend from the summit along the rocky slope, leaving the ridge on the left. The descent leads into the cirque formed by two ridges at the summit. During the descent, orient yourself towards the couloir with a stream. The descent into the cirque takes 1.5 hours. There are cairns along the descent route.

Ascent Passport

1. Rock class.
2. Tashtambek Gorge, Terskey-Alatoo ridge.
3. Tash-tuya Peak (Camel), height ~3900 m, Main Peak via South Peak, with ascent to South Peak via East ridge (first ascent)
4. Estimated difficulty category - 3B.
5. Height difference 500 m, average steepness ~45°
6. Pitons hammered for insurance: rock - 9, ice - none.
7. Departure and return date: July 24, 1977.

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing category: Technical
2. Climbing region: Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge, Tong pass area, Ashutor tract.
3. Peak, route: First ascent of the peak named "Tolomusha Okeeva" via the central couloir of the southern slope.
4. Expected category of difficulty: 2A.
5. Height difference: 1013 m.
6. Total route length: 2255 m.
7. Length of key sections: 358 m.

• Of which 2nd category of difficulty — 235 m.

Passport

I. Rock class. 2. Tian-Shan, Terskey-Alatoo ridge. 3. Tyulenina peak, 4100 m, via the East wall. 4. Proposed — 5A cat. dif., 3rd ascent. 5. Height difference 600 m, length of sections with 5th cat. dif. 200 m, average steepness 54°, average steepness of the wall section 74°. 6. Pitons hammered in: rock — 56, nutcrackers — 15, including 5 for creating belay anchors 7. Travel time: 12 hours. 8. Overnight stay: one — under the route, lying down.

1. Climbing category — technical
2. Climbing area — Central Tian-Shan (Karakol)
3. Peak, its height, route — Peak 4310 m, via the central NW buttress.
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 3B.
5. Route characteristics height difference — 510 m, average steepness — 45°, route length — 745 m
6. Pitons driven rock — 10, chocks — 3, ice — 10
7. Number of climbing hours — 8 hours
8. Team composition:

PHOTO # 9: Morning view of the Altus massif from the North (August 1998) PHOTO # 10: Morning view from the East on the left northern ridge of Altus (May 1998). The described route is shown by a solid line on both photographs. ASCENT DOCUMENT # 4 Class: ROCK CLIMB Region: TIEN-SHAN, Ugam ridge Peak: ALTUS Height: 3200 m (according to KTMGV-89) Route and proposed category of difficulty: via the left northern ridge of Altus 3200, 2B (rock) (A. Yusev, 1998)

Mt. Dvuzubka (N), 1509 m, 2A, cat. difficulty

Mt. Dvuzubka (N) 1509 m, via North Ridge 2A, cat. difficulty. The 1509 m peak (the left peak of "Dvuzubaya") is located in the central part of the peninsula, 82 km along the Petropavlovsk-Nachiki highway. It's 8 km east from the highway to the foot of the peak. Ascent plan to Mt. 1509 on November 6:

• 18:00 - departure from the city
• ski approach to the lake at the foot of the peak November 7, 8:00 - start of the route and ascent to the summit. 14:00 - descent from the summit to the base camp. November 8 - return to the city.

Route Description

From the lake, which is at an altitude of 600 m above sea level, approach to the north ridge of the 1509 peak. The approach takes 1 hour. R1 - from the start of the route, 300 m upwards along the northern ridge through a snowy couloir - the northern ridge - heavily destroyed rocks, slope steepness is 25-30°. Movement is simultaneous. Corresponds to 1B cat. difficulty. Approach to monolithic rocks.