Mt. Dvuzubka (N), 1509 m, 2A, cat. difficulty
Mt. Dvuzubka (N) 1509 m, via North Ridge 2A, cat. difficulty.
The 1509 m peak (the left peak of "Dvuzubaya") is located in the central part of the peninsula, 82 km along the Petropavlovsk-Nachiki highway. It's 8 km east from the highway to the foot of the peak.
Ascent plan to Mt. 1509 on November 6:
- 18:00 - departure from the city
- ski approach to the lake at the foot of the peak
November 7, 8:00 - start of the route and ascent to the summit. 14:00 - descent from the summit to the base camp. November 8 - return to the city.
Route Description
From the lake, which is at an altitude of 600 m above sea level, approach to the north ridge of the 1509 peak. The approach takes 1 hour.
R1 - from the start of the route, 300 m upwards along the northern ridge through a snowy couloir - the northern ridge - heavily destroyed rocks, slope steepness is 25-30°. Movement is simultaneous. Corresponds to 1B cat. difficulty. Approach to monolithic rocks.
2nd section - the snowy couloir leads to the monolithic rocks of the ridge. Further movement is along the ridge. Belay is piton. Steepness of the 1st rope is 50-60°, 2nd is 30-35°. The 60 m section corresponds to 3 cat. difficulty. 4 rock pitons are hammered. At the end of the 2nd section, there's a control cairn.
3rd section - 40 m long - a ridge with destroyed rocks, steepness is 20°. Movement with simultaneous belay, 1 cat. difficulty.
4th section - 250 m long, rocky ridge. Movement with alternating belay. Belay is through ridge projections and pitons. Rocks are partially covered with ice, steepness of 3-5 m sections reaches 50°. Average steepness of the ridge is 25-30°. Corresponds to 3 cat. difficulty. 3 rock pitons are hammered. The ridge leads to the summit.
Descent from the summit to the "Dvuzubaya" saddle - can be done either through the first snowy couloir - narrower, or through the second - wider. Descent is only with alternating belay through an ice axe. Steepness of the couloirs reaches 45-50° for the first 3 ropes.
Total route length is 650 m. Length of 1st cat. difficulty sections is 340 m, 3rd cat. difficulty is 310 m. 7 rock pitons are hammered on the route.
List of Participants
- Neverov V. N. - 1st sports category
- Meltyukhov V. S. - 2nd sports category
- Karpenko V. N. - 2nd sports category
- Loginov I. S. - 2nd sports category
The North Ridge of Mt. 1509 was traversed by the group without errors. The group is physically and technically well-prepared.