V. Bubis — Chanchakhi, traverse, 4B cat. dif.

CHANCHAKHI PASS TSEY-CHANCHAHI PASS TSEY — "LILA" Tbilisi BUBIS SOUTHEAST RIDGE EAST SHOULDER DOME Bol. Zh.

35. Nikolaeva — Mamisontraverse

(Combined route, category 4A) From the hut, descend to the glacier. Approach the second ular. Ascend to the left side of the rocky cape under peak Nikolaeva. Bypass the rock wall on the left. Reach the balcony of the ice axe site. Then, from the right side of the balcony, traverse left along simple rocks with a slight descent in the middle part, then left, descending to a wide shelf. Traverse 100 m to the left along the shelf and reach a large site. From the site, ascend left and upwards along simple rocks to the summit of peak Nikolaeva. From the summit of peak Nikolaeva, descend 100–150 m along simple rocks to the side, then traverse down to the saddle of the ridge between peak A and Mamisontraverse. Continue along the simple rocky ridge, overcoming gendarmes head-on, to the distinct ridge of Mamisontraverse. From Mamisontraverse: — along the 50-meter East (snowy) ridge, then approach the snowy ridge. — Approach the I-st Big gendarme and bypass it with a descent on the right. — Then ascend the steep gendarme. From the gendarme: — Descend to the snowy isthmus and along the gendarmes to the East shoulder of Mamisontraverse.

REPORT

on the first traverse of Tbau Glavnaya – Tbau Severo-Zapadnaya, 1B category of complexity, by the KAT Fatum team February 14, 2024

I. Climbing Report

№	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the leader	Egorin S.V. — Master of Sports
1.2	Full name, sports rank of participants	Tolistikova E.Yu. — 2nd sports rank
1.3	Full name of coach	Egorin S.V.

Report

on the first traverse of Tbau Glavnaya – Tbau Severo-Zapadnaya, winter category 1B difficulty level, by the FATUM CAT team on February 14, 2024.

I. Climbing Passport

№	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the leader	Egorin S.V. — Master of Sports
1.2	Full name, sports rank of participants	Tolistikova E.Yu. — 2nd sports rank
1.3	Full name of coach	Egorin S.V.
1.4	Organization	FATUM CAT
2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — Traverse.
2. Ascent area — Lesser Caucasus, Aragats massif.
3. Peak, ascent route — Aragats, traverse of Aragats South (3850 m) – Aragats West (3978 m) – Aragats Nameless (3800 m) – Aragats North (4095 m) peaks.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 2A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 800 m, average steepness — 35°.
6. Number of pitons hammered for belay — 6 rock pitons.

Route Description: Traversing the Petra I and Akademii Nauk Ridges on the Segment from Pik Parashyutistov to Pik Akhmad Donish

Group II of the "Burevestnik" Complex Expedition. Pamir, August 1968.

Description

of traversing the Petra I and Akademii Nauk Ridges on the segment including Pik Parashyutistov – Pamiro Firnovo Plateau – Pik Kommunizma – Pik 6701 m – Pik Izvestiya – Pik K. Tsetkin – Pik A. Donisha.

I. Brief Geographical Characteristics of the Area

The Petra I and Akademii Nauk Ridges are located in the Northwestern Pamir. Their junction, Pik Kommunizma, is the highest peak in the USSR. The ridges, the first stretching in a latitudinal direction and the second in a meridional direction, are characterized by powerful glaciation and high peaks in their central parts adjacent to Pik Kommunizma. Studying the Petra I and Akademii Nauk Ridges, which play a significant role in shaping the climatic conditions of the Pamir and surrounding areas, as well as in the water balance of the Amu-Darya, is of great interest.

TRAVERSE OF PEAKS:

• «5100 m»
• «5200 m»
• «5340 m»
• «5689 m (Egorova V.P.)»
• «5900 m»
• «RAZDELNAYA»
• «LENINA 7134 m»
• «Lipkin ROCK» Cat. 5B, for the Spartacus Championship of the Central Council of the DSO in 1970.

traverse of peaks 5150 m and 5100 m from east to west. Peaks 5150 and 5100 m are located in the main ridge of the western part of the Zavlaisky ridge and close the Kок-Kyik gorge. The traverse is made from east to west. 1st day: approaches from the intermediate base camp of the Sverdlovsk expedition (3800 m), located in the upper reaches of the X Kок-Kyik gorge near the lake, under the beginning of the route. Overnight on the moraine, height 4200 m. 2nd day: exit at 6:00 am through a stream flowing from under the glacier, which descends from the slopes of peaks 5600 m (loss of height up to 100 m), then ascent to the glacier and firn slope into the gap between peaks 5600 and 5150 m. Route features:

• Traverse in good weather conditions takes 9 hours.
• In bad weather, there are places for a tent practically along the entire route.
• The glacier is crossed in a rope team, as there are closed crevices.
• The firn slope has a steepness of 35 to 50°.
• From the foot to the upper part of the pass requires about 3 hours.

Report

On the high-altitude traverse of Peak Oktyabrsky – Peak Lenin, with the ascent to Peak Oktyabrsky via the western edge, accomplished by the combined team of CSKA. Dedicated to the 30th anniversary of the ascent by the Red Army team to Peak Lenin in 1934. The Trans-Alai Range, discovered in 1871 by the renowned explorer of Central Asia, A.P. Fedchenko, is one of the highest mountain ranges in the Pamir region. The highest part of the range is located in its center and forms a chain of peaks: Peak Lenin – 7134 m, Peak 6852 m, Peak Dzerzhinsky, Peak Kyzyl-Agyn, Peak Edinstva, and others. Peak Lenin is the third highest peak in the Soviet Union, the most popular "seven-thousander," and a high-altitude mountaineering stadium of the country. To the east of Peak Lenin, the Trans-Alai Range turns south and, in the area of Peak Edinstva, divides into two. The main range continues eastward, and a powerful, long Zulumart range with its highest point, Peak Oktyabrsky (6780 m), branches off to the south. The chain of peaks from Peak Oktyabrsky to Krylenko Pass was named "Mountains of Barricades" by N.V. Krylenko in 1928, which now includes: Oktyabrsky Peaks, Peak Edinstva, Peak 6350 m, and Peak 6104 m. Peak Oktyabrsky is a massif with three peaks: the South Peak, with an elevation of about 6750 m (this is the peak visible from the Kara-Jilgа valley), the Main Peak with an elevation of 6780 m, and the North Peak with an elevation of about 2270 m. The elevation differences between the peaks reach 100–120 meters. From Krylenko Pass to the south descends the powerful B. Sauk-Dara glacier, which is framed by steep slopes and walls of the surrounding peaks.

Sarykol-Bashi 3B cat. sl. traverse height 4,100 m.

The Sarykol-Bashi peak is located in the Main Caucasian Ridge between the Granovskogo Pass (to the north) and the Mestiyisky Pass (to the south). From the hut, we head in the direction of the Granovskogo Pass. After reaching the pass, we go right along a steep snowy couloir, with the gendarme of the first peak remaining on the left. Then we move up along a vaguely expressed rocky ridge. Along the northern ridge of the first gendarme, whose upper part we traverse to the left, and down the broken rocks to a saddle. From the saddle, we climb up along a steep snowy ridge, crossing a small section of rocks. The ascent to the second gendarme is done by traversing to the right along a vaguely expressed slab. Crossing an icy couloir, we reach an internal corner, ascending to the left along difficult rocks. 8–10 m before the peak, there is a control cairn. Descent along simple rocks to a snowy saddle, followed by a steep ascent along a snowy ridge; we traverse to the left and up, and ascend to the eastern peak along simple rocks. After descending from the eastern peak, we cross a saddle and ascend to a wall. We pass the wall on the right side along an internal corner with careful belaying. Behind the wall, we move right along a ledge to a slab-like ridge. After passing several gendarmes, we reach the main peak. Further on the descent:

• We pass two gendarmes (from the second gendarme, we organize a rope descent).
• We successively cross two ruined rocky couloirs.
• We reach a snowfield that leads to the Mestiyisky Plateau. In bad weather, one should beware of thunderstorm discharges on the ridge. Time estimate:
• From the hut to the Granovskogo Pass — 1–1.5 hours