Route description.

Section	Cat. difficulty	Steepness	Length
R0–R1	1A	15–25°	3500 m
R1–R2	1B	35–40°	300 m
R2–R3	1B	20–30°	700 m
R0–R1 — the route starts from the Tesz Tor gorge, ascending from the 3350 m campsite via grassy terraces turning into a stony couloir that leads to the glacier.
R1–R2 — scree slope 35–40°. R2–R3 — ridge. Descent is done via the ascent route.

Section "length, steepness, travel time, category, hours, difficulties"

5

Passage of the R1–R2 section. Denis Prokofyev. R1–R2. Approach to the section R2–R3 Taken from the stance on the R2–R3 section. The photo shows the beginning of the R2–R3 section.

Ascent Passport

1. Central Tian Shan, Sarydzhan range, Marble Wall glacier.
2. Traverse of peaks Karlytau (5450 m) – Marble Wall (6400 m) from Marble Wall glacier, first ascent.
3. Submitted – 5B cat. diff. (tentative).
4. Route character — combined.
5. Route height difference — 2030 m. Route length – 4316 m. Length of sections: V cat. diff. – 2500 m, VI cat. diff. – 300 m. Average steepness:
   • main part of the route (sections?) – 70°

133 51 To the classification of Kyrgyzstan mountains Teskey Ala-Too Range Compiled by Veryasov G. FPTI

Location

Novotny Peak is located in the watershed ridge of the Jargylchak spur of the Teskey Ala-Too Range, i.e. the spur that separates the basin of the Malaia (Kichi) and Bolshaya (Chon) Jargylchak rivers. The southern slopes of its eastern buttress are covered with scree, which descends to the Zaporotzky Glacier cirque. The watershed of the Jargylchak spur runs almost meridionally through the Novotny Peak:

Ascent Passport

1. Class — technical.
2. Region — Tashtambektor gorge, Terskey-Alatoo.
3. Traverse of peaks: Severny Sherkhan — Tsentralny — Yuzhny Sherkhan (about 4220 m) — Ondouuchoku (about 4350 m) with ascent to Severny Sherkhan via the Eastern counterfort.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 5B, first ascent.
5. Characteristics: height difference — 650 m; average steepness — 55°; length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 325 m.
6. Pitons hammered for belay: rock — 28 pcs., ice — 3 pcs., bolted — none.
7. Departure date — August 1, return date — August 3, 1977.
8. Number of climbing hours — 19, including 13 hours for the ascent via the Eastern counterfort.
9. Number of nights: two on the moraine below the beginning of the counterfort.

№ 558 p. 12 January 14, 1986 2A category 58 ASCENT PASSPORT I. Ascent class: rock climbing 2. Ascent area: Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: "Sypuchaya" 3900 m via NW ridge

Map of the area ▲ – base camp △ – overnight stay location → – ascent and descent route from the summit.

Brief description of the route

1. Brief description of the approach to the route From the "Chimgan" tourist center, head upwards towards the GuliKam or Pesochny pass (1833 m). Then, through the pass, into the GuliKam gorge until the confluence of GuliKamsay and Kuilyuksay (1.5–2 hours). Here, the trail branches:

• one leads to the GuliKam gorges;
• the other — upstream along the Kuilyuksay riverbed to the start of the route — the base of the far-reaching left counterfort of the north-eastern wall of Bolshoy Chimgan.

Brief description of the route approach

From Dugoba a/l, follow the trail to the confluence of the Ak-tash and Ulitor rivers, then continue along the Ulitor river trail to the moraine campsite. Then, follow the trail through two moraine ascents to the campsite under the high rocky ridge. From the campsite, ascend the scree gully to the destroyed black rocks and then rightwards along the scree to the rocky slabs. This is the starting point of the route.

MAIN ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS TABLE

Гре­ве­ив от Цен­тр. Гва­ид­рь к Вос­то­чно­му — 2–5 км. becomes Distance from Tsentr. Gvaidry to Vostochny — 2–5 km.