2. Ascent to the north-west peak from the Morды valley — cat. diff. 2A

From the "Udzunkol" camp along the right bank of the Morды river to the old koshi, cross to the left bank and along the trail to the large moraine of the Dalar glacier. Along the moraine to its middle part, where it flattens. From here to the left-down and further up the slopes to the talus terrace under the NW edge of Trapezia. The bivouac site. From the camp 3.5-4 hours. From the bivouac:

• up steep talus upwards in the direction of the huge chute-couloir;
• to the right of it — along slabs and rocks to the place of its narrowing;
• crossing on snow (belay!) to the left side of the couloir;
• further up along the stepped rocks and shelves from island to island — ascent to a heavily destroyed rocky ridge;
• along it — to the "central" rocky island (belay!). From the island to the rocks straight-up (belay!) to a large smoothed rocky block on the slope under the peak. Exit to it along narrow shelves and short walls (belay! Pitons!), and further along the destroyed rocks to the ridge under the gendarme.

185. Asmashi Peak via the West Ridge (combined route, Tomasheka, Cat. 3B, Fig. 24, 27). From the Asmashi Pass (170 m) turn right and ascend a steep snow-and-ice slope with rock outcrops on the right side of the North Buttress (cornices, protection) of Asmashi's West Ridge onto the shoulder of the West Ridge. On the shoulder, turn left and follow a gently sloping, simple, long, in places narrow snow-covered (cornices) rocky West Ridge («live» rocks, protection); surmount the I and II gendarmes on steep moderately difficult rocks («live» rocks, pitons) and ascend a snow-and-ice slope to the summit of Asmashi. 6–7 hr from the Asmashi Pass.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent type: rock
2. Ascent area: "in accordance with KTMVG" Caucasus, from Chipperazau Pass to Kitlod Pass.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Bashil — 4257 m, via the center of the West Face.
4. Expected difficulty category: 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 780 m, average steepness 70°. Section lengths: 1st diff. cat. — 0, 2nd diff. cat. — 0, 3rd diff. cat. — 70 m, 4th diff. cat. — 415 m, 5th diff. cat. — 300 m, 6th diff. cat. — 80 m.
6. Pitons driven: | For belaying | For creating artificial holds | | :----------: | :---------------------------: | | Rock — 83 | 37 |

ASCENT PASS

I. Ascent class: technical. 2. Ascent area: from Gezetau Pass to Gurdzautsek Pass. 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Tajmazi Central peak (3700 m) via the northeast counterfort. 4. Estimated difficulty category: 2B category. 5. Route characteristics:

• Height difference: 700 m
• Average steepness: 45°
• Length of sections:
  • R1 — 500 m

Fig. 5 12. Peak Shevchenko 9416 m via the Northwest Ridge (A. Zyuzin's route, combined, 3B category of difficulty, Fig. 5). From the base camp on the right bank of the Psygansu River, not far from the tongue of the Nakhashbita Glacier (group of 4–5 people), ascend along the ridge of the left-bank moraine of the glacier to the base of the Northwest Ridge of Peak Shevchenko. Here, turn left and ascend along the scree to the left of the Northwest Ridge of the peak to a wide, steep snow-ice couloir descending from the Northwest Ridge of the peak. From here:

• ascend to the right along the scree,
• then along the steep snow-ice slope on the left side of this couloir for 150–200 m under the wall (possible rockfall — piton belay). Then, ascend along a small, heavily broken, moderately difficult rock wall to reach the Northwest Ridge of Peak Shevchenko. On the ridge, turn left and ascend along simple and moderately difficult broken rocks of the Northwest Ridge. Overcome the I and II gendarmes head-on along moderately difficult rocks, the III — along a chimney and rocks above moderate difficulty of the wall (piton belay) with a 20 m rappel, and from it to a ledge under the IV gendarme. Bypass the IV and V gendarmes on the right along shelves, and then reach a platform on the Northwest Ridge.

ADAI VIA THE EASTERN WALL

(combined route, category 4A difficulty) Path from the KSP of the Tsey region to the entrance bivouac on the sites with an exit to the upper snow plateau of the Skazskiy glacier. From the sites (departure at 2–3 a.m. due to rockfall in the lower part of the route) having passed onto the glacier plateau in the direction of the Skazskiy pass 3000, turn right and approach the lowest rocks on the right side of the entire rock belt — the Eastern wall of Adai peak, to the left of the wide snowy slope-gully descending from the peak and its North ridge, dangerous due to rockfall and avalanches. From the plateau, having crossed the bergschrund via a snow bridge, exit onto the rocks of the rock belt of the Eastern wall. Through simple and moderately difficult sections of the lower belt (the lower rocks can be bypassed via the snowy slope on the right), then via the snowy slope ascend up to the left, onto the snow-covered lower base of the rock belt. From the shoulder — ascent via snow, then via simple and moderately difficult ruined rocks descend to the left to the lower walls of the Central belt. Above the walls, via steep ruined rocks of moderate difficulty of the lying edge, then via a 10–12 m wall (“live” rocks, piton belay), further 150 m via simple and moderately difficult ruined steep snowy (rockfall possible!) alternating with ice-snow slopes approach the rocky ascent of the Central belt. Traverse the ascent via smooth rocks (moderately difficult) of the internal corner (piton belay) with an exit from it onto the right edge of the triangular gray rocky pre-summit belt.

126. Bu­bis (4428 m) via North Ridge-slope (the route is combined, cat. 2B, fig. 20, 29). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region or from the village of Dzina­ga (a group of 4-20 people) to the Tsey-Karaugom pass with an initial bivouac on the North branch of the Tsey glacier or on the Karaugom plateau below the pass is described in route 83. At the pass (when ascending from the Tsey glacier), turn left and approach the crevasse in the North Ridge-slope of Bubis Peak via a snowy slope. Having passed the crevasse over a snow bridge, ascend a steep 120-150-meter ice-snow North Ridge-slope, to the right of the rocky ridge (avalanches are possible - piton belay) with two rocky outcrops, then ascend easy rocks to the summit of Bubis. 2-3 hours from the pass. Descent is via the ascent route. Descent from the pass to the Tsey glacier in the second half of the day is rockfall-dangerous. Duration of the route:

• 3 days. Naumov A. F. Karaugom, Di­goria, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., “Fizkultura i sport”, 1976.

The path from the sports camp in the Tsey district or from the village of Dzinaga to the initial bivouac on the middle plateau of the Western branch of the Karaugom plateau, under the Eastern slopes of the Burdzhul peak. From the initial bivouac (closed crevices) across the snowy fields of the plateau, then along the snowy slope to approach the Eastern edge of the Burdzhul peak between the Eastern ridge on the left and the Eastern buttress of the Northern ridge on the right (on the left and right above the Eastern edge are ice falls). From the plateau, having crossed the bergschrund on a snow bridge, ascend a steep snowy slope to the rocks of the Eastern edge. From here, 120 m upwards along steep rocks of medium difficulty ("live" stones, possible rockfall — piton belay) to a couloir. Then, along steep, simple and medium difficulty rocks of the couloir (rockfall — piton belay) 80–100 m straight up. Then exit the couloir to the right and ascend 120–150 m along steep, smooth rocks of above medium difficulty on the ridge (piton belay). Along simple and medium difficulty rocks of the ridge, ascend 150–180 m to a snowy-ice slope. From the plateau, 5–6 hours. From the ridge, traverse 150–180 m left-upwards along a steep snowy-ice slope (possible avalanches — piton belay) to a rocky outcrop. Then, along simple and medium difficulty rocks of the outcrop, reach its summit. Cairn. From the outcrop, traverse 60–80 m to the left (piton belay) along a steep snowy-ice slope, then along a snowy ridge crest, ascend to the summit

Description of the route 3Б cat. sl. to Peak Vils, 4,100 m. Approaches.

From A/L "Tsey" 1.2 km south (A = 195) to the entrance to a wide couloir falling from the northwest walls of Peak Vils. Then move up the couloir. The couloir is cut by a narrow canyon; one should move to the left of the canyon (on the orographic right side of the couloir) up to its beginning, vertically upwards, 1.2 km. At the place where the canyon begins, there are spots for tents. Bypassing the canyon from above, traverse a steep scree slope - about 300 m (with caution, all upper couloirs are stone-hazardous, especially the southern one!) to a rocky counterfort; bypass the counterfort from below, then move up and to the left to its upper part - about 200 m to the overnight stay. The overnight stays are located on a scree section in the upper part of the counterfort, 100–150 m from the NW ridge of Peak Vils. The ascent from A/L "Tsey" to the overnight stays is approximately 1.3 km, taking around 6 hours.

Route.

From the overnight stays, move towards the ridge in the direction of the counterfort with a pronounced rock outcrop. There are two possible variants along scree ledges and easy rocks to the ridge; once on the ridge, climb easy and moderately difficult rocks to a horizontal ledge going left, 0.5–1 m wide, then along the ledge (about 30 m) to a clearly defined internal angle. Alternatively: from the overnight stays, along easy and moderately difficult rocks and scree ledges, directly under the counterfort to a horizontal ledge 0.5–1 m wide, in the left part resting against an internal angle. From this ledge begins the key section of the route.

Fig. 57

1. Ascent to the peak Perednyaya Chotcha (3637 m) via the counterfort of the northern wall — category 4B difficulty (fig. 57)

From Dombay plain by car to the Severny shelter. From the Severny shelter:

• via a log across the Khokel river
• further along the trail on the left side of the Chotcha gorge to the snowy couloir under the northern wall of the Chotcha peak Ascent:
• up the middle of the couloir to its middle part
• then via the "ram's foreheads" and uncomplicated rocks