ADAI VIA THE EASTERN WALL
(combined route, category 4A difficulty)
Path from the KSP of the Tsey region to the entrance bivouac on the sites with an exit to the upper snow plateau of the Skazskiy glacier.
From the sites (departure at 2–3 a.m. due to rockfall in the lower part of the route) having passed onto the glacier plateau in the direction of the Skazskiy pass 3000, turn right and approach the lowest rocks on the right side of the entire rock belt — the Eastern wall of Adai peak, to the left of the wide snowy slope-gully descending from the peak and its North ridge, dangerous due to rockfall and avalanches.
From the plateau, having crossed the bergschrund via a snow bridge, exit onto the rocks of the rock belt of the Eastern wall. Through simple and moderately difficult sections of the lower belt (the lower rocks can be bypassed via the snowy slope on the right), then via the snowy slope ascend up to the left, onto the snow-covered lower base of the rock belt. From the shoulder — ascent via snow, then via simple and moderately difficult ruined rocks descend to the left to the lower walls of the Central belt.
Above the walls, via steep ruined rocks of moderate difficulty of the lying edge, then via a 10–12 m wall (“live” rocks, piton belay), further 150 m via simple and moderately difficult ruined steep snowy (rockfall possible!) alternating with ice-snow slopes approach the rocky ascent of the Central belt. Traverse the ascent via smooth rocks (moderately difficult) of the internal corner (piton belay) with an exit from it onto the right edge of the triangular gray rocky pre-summit belt.
Further via snow-covered steep rocks of the edge, alternating with ice-snow slopes 150–180 m up, then via the ice-snow slope (piton belay!) — ascent to the right onto the North ridge and via it exit onto the lower plateau of Adai peak. From the initial bivouac — 10–12 hours. Descent via the North-East ridge, category 3A difficulty.
Recommendations for climbers:
- Number of participants — no more than 6 people
- Initial bivouac — upper plateau of the Skazskiy glacier
- Departure time from the bivouac — 2–3 a.m.