Description of the route 3Б cat. sl. to Peak Vils, 4,100 m. Approaches.

From A/L "Tsey" 1.2 km south (A = 195) to the entrance to a wide couloir falling from the northwest walls of Peak Vils. Then move up the couloir.

The couloir is cut by a narrow canyon; one should move to the left of the canyon (on the orographic right side of the couloir) up to its beginning, vertically upwards, 1.2 km. At the place where the canyon begins, there are spots for tents.

Bypassing the canyon from above, traverse a steep scree slope - about 300 m (with caution, all upper couloirs are stone-hazardous, especially the southern one!) to a rocky counterfort; bypass the counterfort from below, then move up and to the left to its upper part - about 200 m to the overnight stay.

The overnight stays are located on a scree section in the upper part of the counterfort, 100–150 m from the NW ridge of Peak Vils.

The ascent from A/L "Tsey" to the overnight stays is approximately 1.3 km, taking around 6 hours.

Route.

From the overnight stays, move towards the ridge in the direction of the counterfort with a pronounced rock outcrop. There are two possible variants along scree ledges and easy rocks to the ridge; once on the ridge, climb easy and moderately difficult rocks to a horizontal ledge going left, 0.5–1 m wide, then along the ledge (about 30 m) to a clearly defined internal angle.

Alternatively: from the overnight stays, along easy and moderately difficult rocks and scree ledges, directly under the counterfort to a horizontal ledge 0.5–1 m wide, in the left part resting against an internal angle.

From this ledge begins the key section of the route.

The key section of the route - a slab-like wall, about 40 m of difficult rocks, in 2 places it is necessary to use artificial aids (a ladder). Insurance is with pitons and stoppers.

One can move:

along the internal angle,
or to the right of it along the wall (about 20 m).

Further, the internal angle narrows - about 6–7 m of difficult climbing (artificial aids). Then the wall becomes more gentle, the relief richer - another about 10 m of climbing to the ridge. On the ridge - a station (boulders, outcrops).

From the key section, move along the ridge to a steep rocky counterfort - triangular, crowned with a sharp outcrop, under it - a control tour. The outcrop is bypassed on the right.

Further movement is along the ridge to the intersection with a couloir separating it from the NW wall of Peak Vils.

Then ascend easy and moderately difficult rocks, shifting to the right and upwards along the couloir to a platform dividing:

the above-described couloir,
the couloir falling onto the Passionaria glacier.

Above the platform, move up a wide couloir (40 m) to a small cirque, in the upper part of which slab-like gendarmes are visible.

Having exited the couloir, move along scree ledges to the left and upwards, bypassing the gendarmes from below, to the mouth of a narrow rocky couloir, along which move upwards.

After 15 m, the couloir widens into a platform.
Another 20 m further, it narrows, turning into a groove.

In the groove - snow, under the snow - ice. Along the groove 30 m upwards, then it widens, leading to a platform.

From the platform, turn left and move along simple and moderately difficult rocks upwards, to the left of the couloirs, to the exit onto a wide platform under the summit (50 m).

From the platform - along a gentle scree slope to the summit of Peak Vils.

Hazards:

The entire system of couloirs is stone-hazardous.
Live rocks everywhere.
The bottom of the couloirs is partly covered with ice and snow (even in August).