Peak BOLGARIA (5666 m) via peak 5600 along the Western Ridge (Central Pamir) Area Map

Geographical Location

The gathering place for the climbers of MOS DSO "Zenit" in 1970 was the area of Peak Revolyutsii in the Central Pamir, with the base camp located in the upper reaches of the Yazgulem-Dara valley. The summit — Peak Bolgariya — was the target of the ascent. It belongs to the mountain chain stretching south from the highest peak in the area — Peak Revolyutsii (6974 m). On the opposite, western, side of the valley, the peaks of the Yazgulemsky Ridge stretch from north to south, most of which exceed 5000 m in height. The area is dominated by six-thousander peaks located in the northern part of the valley:

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. High-altitude ascent category
2. Central Pamir, Yazgulemsky Ridge
3. Peak 26 Baku Commissars (6834 m) via the center of the south wall
4. Proposed difficulty category — 6
5. Route characteristics: Height difference — 2550 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 1690 m. Average wall steepness — 74°
6. Pitons driven: for belaying — rock 282, ice 52, no bolt pitons; for creating artificial footholds — 59 rock, 2 ice, no bolt pitons

Ascent Certificate for Mt. Mamlyuk, 2410 m, via the Western slope, cat. 1B, diff. cat.

1. East Sayan, Tun­kin­skie Goltsy ridge, Serga cirque (Veter region), section 6.1.2. 2. Mt. Mamlyuk (2410) via the Western slope. 3. Proposed category: 1B, first ascent. 4. Route type: combined. 5. Height gain 350 m, length 860 m, average slope 20°. 6. Pitons used: rock and chocks — 7. 7. Team's walking time — 4 hours. 8. No bivouacs on the route. 9. Team: Afanas'eva A.A. CMS Geydarov K.G. 2nd sports class Karelov P.S. 3rd sports class Kuchumov S.N. novice Mordovin A.A. 3rd sports class Nomokonov D.V. 3rd sports class Potapov R.A. badge Rasskazov D.V. 3rd sports class Rozhin A.Yu. 2nd sports class Uvarovskiy S.V. novice Shabanov A.V. novice Afanas'ev A.E. MS

Description of the ascent route to Mt. Mamlyuk 2410 m via the Western ridge, cat. 1B diff. cat.

6.2 Western Sayan Koshurnikova 2300 m, 1B category, From the ridge Zhigalov A.V. March 17, 2013

Climbing Passport

1. Type of climb — combined
2. Region — Western Sayan, Borus ridge
3. Peak Koshurnikova, 2300 m, From the ridge
4. Proposed — 1B first ascent
5. Route characteristics:

• height difference — 950 m
• total length 1700 m
• length of sections: 2nd category complexity — 100 m

Russian Championship in mountaineering in the ice and snow class Report on the ascent of the St. Petersburg team to Peak Svobodnoy Korei 4740 m. Via the North Face couloir, 5B cat. sl. Barber's route on February 20, 2015.

Ascent Details

1. Mountain system: Tian Shan Region: Kyrgyz Ala-Too Range Valley: Ak-Sai Peak name: Svobodnoy Korei, 4740 m
2. Route name: via the North Face couloir
3. Category of difficulty: 5B cat. sl.
4. Route type: ice and snow

Ascent Passport

1. Class — technical
2. Karakol region, Terskey-Alatau ridge
3. Peak Jigit (5170), center of the large triangle of the north wall
4. Route 6B cat. diff.
5. Height difference — 1350 m Length of sections 5–6 cat. diff. — about 1000 m. Average steepness — 76°
6. Pitons driven — 156 pcs. ice screws — 7 pcs., chocks, loops — 32 pcs.
7. Number of climbing hours (first climber) — 32 h

2. Fai­on as­cend­ing, ridge — NW Tian Shan Talas­sky ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Ko­ro­na (Al­pysh-at) 3870, traverse II–III towers
4. Sup­posed dif­fi­culty cat­egory — μ² 35
5. Char­ac­ter­is­tics of the route: height dif­fer­ence, length of sec­tion R1–R5 cat. diff. av­er­age steep­ness in de­grees — dif­fer­ence 1000 m, av. steep­ness 55°
6. Num­ber of pitons for safe­ty for cre­at­ing ar­ti­fi­cial sup­port points: lo­cal — 14 pcs., ice — none (sling — none)
7. Num­ber of trav­el­ing hours — 12 h

ASCENT DOCUMENT.

1. Ascent type: traverse.
2. Ascent area: Southern spurs of the Alaysky ridge, Kок-Су gorge.
3. Traverse of unnamed peaks "D" 4850 m - "P" 4840 m - "T" 4950 m.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 4A.
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference:
   • section lengths:
     • no category - none

PASSPORT

First ascent to the summit of Djalgiz-Konush via the north-eastern wall of the Zub Begichi peak.

1. Class: technical.
2. Region: Alai Ridge, Kok-Su gorge.
3. Peaks: p. Zub Begichi (4100 m) via the center of the north-eastern wall, followed by a traverse to p. Djalgiz-Konush (4470 m).
4. Assumed difficulty category: 5B.
5. Route characteristics: Total elevation gain – 1500–1700 m. Wall:
   • elevation gain: 610 m

143. Tikhtengen South via the Eastern ridge (route is combined, T. Longstaff, cat.4B, fig. 20, 23). From the initial bivouac on Tsanner flats (item 141) move across the plateau towards the snowy couloir of the Eastern ridge of Tikhtengen saddle, to the right of the steep ascent to pyramidal IV and three small gendarmes. From the plateau, after crossing the bergschrund, ascend 200-250 m up the snowy couloir to the saddle of the Eastern ridge. On the saddle, turn left and ascend rocks of above average difficulty, then ascend snowy rocks of average difficulty of the Eastern ridge to reach the I gendarme. Further,