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Route Description: с юга по колодцу и СЗ гребню
Description of a category 3 complexity ascent to the summit of Tbau-khokh (2980 m) via the southern slope and northwestern ridge in the Caucasus.
- Climbing type: rock climbing
- Climbing area: 2.8: Caucasus: Kurtatin gorge
- Peak, route: Tbau-khokh peak (2980 m): from the South via the chimney and the North-West ridge
- Estimated category of difficulty: 3A category of difficulty: first ascent
- Route characteristics: height difference — 400 m, route length — 750 m, length of sections:
- 4–5 — 40 m
- 3 — 200 m, average steepness:
- chimney — 60°
- ridge — 45°
Route Description: В гребню
Description of a Category 2 difficulty route to the summit of Chach-Khokh (4207 m) via the eastern ridge from Chach valley with a detailed analysis of the route and necessary equipment.
ROUTE DESCRIPTION to the summit of Chach-khokh, category 2B complexity (height 4107 m) via the eastern ridge, approved on 17/2-67. The summit is located in the watershed ridge (between the basins of the Genal-don and Chach-khi rivers), connecting the Kazbek plateau to the south with the peak Iriston and further to the north with S. and Y. Kaidzhany. The summit has been visited repeatedly by mountaineering groups. All ascents were made from the Chach valley. The route is classified.
Day 1
The group travels by car along the VGD to the village of Gvileti, from where it is no more than 1 hour's walk along a dirt road to the confluence of the Kebati and Chach-khi rivers. After crossing the Kebati River and then the Chach-khi River at their confluence, the group heads along a trail to the right (Chach) valley. The trail winds up the slope and leads to the first "gates" of the Chach valley (a height difference of about 300-400 m). Next, it is necessary to go up to the right. Overcoming the "ram's foreheads of the gates" along one of the shelves that divides them, you should climb up the grassy slope to a group of trees, from which a well-trodden trail begins again. Follow the trail into a wide couloir, cross a stream, after which the trail turns sharply to the right under the rocks. Following along them, it will lead to a shoulder forming the first "gates" of the valley. It takes about 1.5 hours to walk from the confluence of the rivers to the pass point of the first "gates". The "ram's foreheads" must be passed with caution and gymnastic belay.
Route Description: С гребню
Ascent to the summit Addala East (4025 m) in the mountains of Dagestan via a combined route of III category of complexity.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class: combined
- Ascent area: 2.9.6 mountains of Dagestan
- Peak, its height and ascent route: Addala Eastern, 4025 m via N ridge
- Proposed difficulty category: 2A
- Route characteristics:
- height difference — 800 m
- average steepness — 50°
- length of sections: III cat. diff. — 170 m, II — 690 m, I — 450 m
- 7 ice, 2 rock, 2 screw anchors
Route Description: СВ гребню
Description of the ascent route to the summit of Doltag (4127 m) via the North-Eastern ridge, difficulty category 2B, in the Eastern Caucasus.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class — rock climb
- Ascent area according to KTMGV (Mountaineering and Trekking Classification of Mountain Routes) Eastern Caucasus
- Peak, its height, and ascent route Dyultydag 4127 m via the northeast ridge
- Proposed category of difficulty 2B cat. diff. ≈ 15 / 1–80
- Route characteristics: elevation gain 280 m, average steepness 45°, length of sections I — 150 m; II — 8 m; III — 180 m; IV — 50 m; V — 150 m; VI — 5 m; VII — 20 m.
Route Description: ЮВ кф.
Description of the route to the 4th tower of Shalbuzdag Mt. (4020 m) via D-W buttress, category 4, in Dagestan, climbed by a group of alpinists in 1989.
- Climbing category — rock climbing
- Climbing area — 2.10., Dagestan mountains, Chekhychay gorge.
- Peak, its height, climbing route, its character — Shalbuzdag East, 4th tower, 4020 m, via the SE buttress.
- Estimated category complexity — 3A
- Route description — Height difference 400 m, section length 10 m, average steepness — 45°.
- Pitons used — rock, ice, bolted 6/0, 0/0, 0/0; placed nuts 6/0
- Number of climbing hours — 4
- Number of nights — No overnight stay
- Leader's full name, participants and their qualification — Dorro Konstantin Eduardovich, 1st sports category; Mammaev Sulayban Nurmagomedovich, 2nd sports category; Krasnopolsky Yuri Vasilyevich, Candidate for Master of Sports
- Team coach —
Route Description: Ю гребню
Description of a technical route, category 2B complexity level, to the summit of Kuli-Zoi (4550 m) in the Pamir Mountains, with a detailed description of the approach and ascent.
ASCENT PASS
- Ascent category: Technical.
- Ascent area: Central Pamir, Vanchsky Ridge.
- Peak Kuli-Zod South, height 4550 m. The route is combined.
- Estimated category of difficulty: 2B.
- Route characteristics:
- Elevation gain 1200 m.
- Average steepness 15–20°.
- No pitons were used. Belaying was done through natural features.
- Total climbing time: 11–13 hours.
Descriptions of the routes to Vorozharsky and Bannyy peaks with a sketch map and indication of the difficulty category.
Toposcheme
— ROUTE TO p. VOROZHARSKOGO (35 grade) — ROUTE TO p. BANYANNY (26 grade)
Route Description: З стене, траверс
Topographic scheme of Vezdara in Pamir, scale 1 cm — 2 km, route description.
Nartoscheme Vezdara
10–3 Pamir
scale 1 cm — 2 km
Route Description: Ю кф.
Description of the ascent route to Skalniy summit via the southern counterfort, difficulty category 4B, climbed by the MGS DSO "Spartak" group led by Zybin A. N.
Ascent Passport
I. Ascent class — 74 2. Ascent area — South-West Pamir, Shakhdarin Range, southern spur 3. Peak, its height and route — peak Skalniy via the southern counterfort 4. Estimated difficulty category — 4B 5. Route characteristics * height difference — 500 m * average steepness — 5.945 * extent of sections 6. Number of pitons driven: rock, ice
### Climbing Mount Everest via the South Col: An Overview The ascent to the summit of Everest through the South Col route is a challenging and iconic mountaineering endeavor. This route is considered one of the most popular paths to the highest point on Earth, but it is not without its complexities and hazards. ### Key Points and Characteristics The route involves several critical points and challenges, including steep ascents, treacherous ice walls, and extreme altitude. Climbers must navigate through the **Lhotse Face**, a daunting ice wall, before reaching the **South Col**, a saddle-shaped ridge that connects Everest to **Lhotse**, the fourth highest mountain in the world. ### Challenges and Dangers The climb is fraught with difficulties such as crevasses, avalanches, and extreme weather conditions. The high altitude poses significant risks, including altitude sickness, which can be fatal if not recognized and treated promptly. ### Conclusion Ascending Everest via the South Col is a serious undertaking that requires extensive mountaineering experience, physical conditioning, and mental toughness. Despite the challenges, many adventurers are drawn to this route each year, seeking to stand on the roof of the world.
Mt. Severная
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