ASCENT RECORD

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area — Central Tien Shan.
3. Peak — Orto-Choku Eastern, height — 4000 m, ascent route — from the southeast.
4. Difficulty category — 3A.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 400 m, average steepness — 40°.
6. Pitons driven — 7 pcs.
7. Total climbing hours — 11.
8. Group composition:

Passport

1. Climbing category — rock
2. Western Tien Shan, Chatkal Ridge
3. Peak Okhotnichy — 3099 m, via the right counterfort of the Western wall, rock
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3B
5. Height difference — 550 m, length — 1010 m; length of sections with 4th diff. cat. — 95 m; average steepness of main sections — 50°, of which 4th diff. cat. — 70°
6. Pitons hammered in: rock 8 bolt –

August 15.

Route Description

3718 m. From the base camp located on the moraine under the northern walls of Mt. Piazak, the approach to the saddle of the North Ridge is via a snowy couloir (scree in summer) along the rocky outcrops on the left (1 hour). From the saddle: — right along the ridge (60 m, 45°, snow) under a rocky outcrop; — then along the couloir (40 m, 50°, snow, местами натёчный лёд) towards the rocky wall in the ridge (piton belay). The wall is traversed on the left and via broken rocks — exit to a steep snowy section of the ridge. Moving on the right side of the ridge, exit onto broken rocks. Along the snowy ridge 250 m to the summit (snow cornices on both sides, movement in rope teams). The summit is broken rocks. In fact, the summit of Piazak is double-headed. The Eastern and Western summits are at least 500 m apart and are of equal height. The ridge between them is snowy and presents no technical difficulty. The control cairn is set on the Eastern summit. The descent from the summit to the base camp took 2 hours via the ascent route. A easier descent is possible via the Western summit along its Western slope into another cirque, but in this case, having lost altitude, one will have to climb back to the base camp, bypassing Piazak from the West.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing
2. Ascent area, ridge — Pamir-Alai, spurs of the Kollektor Ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. "Novichok" 4000 m, NE ridge
4. Proposed difficulty category — 2A category
5. Route characteristics: height difference, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty categories, average steepness
6. Number of pitons hammered for belaying — 8 rock pitons
7. Number of walking hours — 7 hours
8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics —
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants, and their qualification

Ascent Passport

Technical

1. Ascent class: Technical
2. Ascent area (according to KTMGV): Pamir-Alai, Alai Ridge, Koksu Valley
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Unnamed "N" 4600 m Eastern ridge
4. Proposed difficulty category: 3B
5. Route characteristics: height difference 650 m average steepness 45° section length: I 220 m, II 300 m, III 160 m, IV 200 m, V 25 m, VI 1 m

45. Osh Sever­naya via the South Ridge

The route is rocky, Category III complexity (fig. 5, 49–51). Length — 650 m, time — 5–6 hours. The approach path from the "Kir­giz­a­ta" al­pin­ist camp (group of 2–6 people) to the saddle of the massif between the North and West peaks — see route 46. From the saddle, traverse left and 140–160 m to the right along a 30–40° scree slope to approach the wall on the left side of the weakly expressed Western counterfort of the Kupol pinnacle on the South Ridge of the North peak. From the scree, ascend (with piton protection) 50–60 m up smoothed moderate and above moderate difficulty rocks at a 70° wall, then 40–50 m up moderate difficulty wide steep

Group Equipment

I. Main rope 40 m - 3 pcs. 2. Rock pitons - 10 pcs. 3. Carabiners - 10 pcs. 4. Hammers - 2 pcs. 5. Ladders - 4 pcs.

III. Peak Sur-ToO

Ascent via the south-eastern ridge, route 1A cat. difficulty (see diagram in Fig. 2). The route was traversed on October 31, 1972 by a group consisting of Inozemtsev Yu.P. (leader), Telbuh P.A., Nehaenko A.A.

Location of the summit and ascent routes

13. 4th peak of the Crown of Siam from the Tsirk of Belaya Piramida, 16 km/tr. route, fig. 5

From the bivouac on the left moraine of the East glacier of Belaya Piramida under the slopes of the peaks of the Crown of Siam, approach the 4th peak. When bypassing the peaks of the Crown of Siam, one should be cautious, as the couloirs descending from the peak are rockfall-prone. The ascent to the peak goes via a snowy couloir leading to the ridge to the right of the peak. Then move along the ridge for 50–60 m until reaching slabs inclined to the southeast towards the Siam Valley. The slabs are climbed on the right with running belay. Then, via easy rocks, staying to the right of the ridge, reach the peak. The descent from the peak is via the ascent route. The ascent takes 5 hours. Fig. 5

Ascent to the summit Studencheskaya

from N.-E. with cat. difficulty From the overnight stays under the Studencheskaya peak, cross to the right bank of the Siama River and ascend to the moraine located to the N.-E. of the Studencheskaya peak. Then, via a couloir and easy rocks, ascend to the snowy plateau located in the N.-N.-E. part of the Studencheskaya peak massif. Traverse the plateau to the left, approach the "window" in the northern ridge of the peak, and through it, exit under the N.-E. rocky slopes of the peak. The following options are possible:

• Ascend via the N.-E. scree slopes of the peak from the Siama River.
• Traverse the scree slopes of the eastern cirque via the scree near the rocks, pass through two couloirs, and approach the fourth one. The landmark is that the peak is visible from it. Ascend via the snow, and then via the rocks. In the upper part of the couloir, there is steep snow; ascend with protection up to the wall at the end of the couloir. The wall above the couloir has a pronounced crevice with chimneys, which is used for further ascent. The first rocky outcrop of the wall, resembling "ram's foreheads," is passed with piton protection (30 m), then:
• leftwards, bypassing the rocky ridge on the left

Mayakovsky 4A cat. via South-Eastern wall (Savukhin's route)

Route description. The approach to the South-Eastern wall of peak Mayakovsky is through Ordzhonikidze or Antikainen passes. Special attention should be paid to the descent from Antikainen pass down a steep snowy slope. When moving, strictly stick to the middle of the slope (rockfall). Go around the massif of Antikainen peak and Отечественной Войны peak, reach the South-Eastern wall of peak Mayakovsky. Initial bivouac is on the moraine of the Eastern Ordzhonikidze glacier. To study the rockfall regime, spend two days under the south-eastern wall. Start the ascent very early. The ascent to the wall is via easy rocks, alternating with talus. Then there is a section of slabs with a steepness of 25–30° (first control point), which lead directly to the foot of the south-eastern wall of the peak. At the first stage, move along a vaguely expressed crevice, the walls of which are monolithic, with a steepness of 75–80°. The first climber has to ascend to the full length of the rope, extremely cautiously, deviating slightly to the right. Only after 30 m, on a small ledge, above which there is a 3–4-meter wall, is there a crack (piton belay). Only one person can be taken to the platform.