ASCENT REPORT

I. Climbing area: 2.9.Б, Dagestan Mountains 2. Climbing class: combined 3. Peak, its height: Ortlobak, 3937 m 4. Ascent route: via the southern ridge 5. Estimated difficulty category: 2А, 18 m, 54605 29/1–85 6. Route characteristics: height difference — 400 m, steepness — 30°, length of sections 1st cat. diff. — 450 m, 2 — 220 m, 3 — 20 m 7. Pits were not used 8. Overnight stay in the base camp 9. Surname I.O. of the leader and participants, their sports qualification

Ascent Passport

1. Combined route 295
2. Climbing area — 2.9a East Caucasus
3. Summit Sel'dyk (3666 m) from the South
4. Difficulty category — 1B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 400 m. Route length — 790 m (Ic.tr. — 690 m, Pc.tr. — 100 m). Average steepness — 30°.
6. Rock pitons — 2, ice — 0, bolted — 0
7. Number of travel hours — 9

Characteristics of the Avachinskaya group of volcanoes, geographical location.

The Avachinskaya group of volcanoes is located 30 km north of the city of Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky. It consists of five volcanoes, two of which are active, one of them, Koryaksky, being the highest volcano in southern Kamchatka. The volcanoes of this group are very popular among tourists and mountaineers due to their proximity to the city. Many routes have been laid to the summits, ranging from 1B to 3B in difficulty. Dirt roads lead to the foot of the volcanoes. The best time for ascents is from July to September. In winter and spring, it is only possible to reach the foot of the volcanoes by snowmobile or on skis. The slopes of the volcanoes are ideal for downhill skiing.

Vlk. Avachinsky 2741 m, 1B cat. diff., SE slope, V. Arsenyev, 1923.

It is more convenient to set up a base camp at the boundary of the forest zone. The approach to the cone of the volcano is along the dry riverbed, across wide slag and lava fields, in the direction of the lava flow (1991 eruption) (see photo). When approaching the tongue of the lava flow, caution must be exercised, as there are hidden ice crevasses. The flow is bypassed on the right, and along it, there is a direct ascent to the cone. The exit to the crater rim is made through a small gap where:

• a lava flow emerges,

VOLCANO ARIK Western slope 1B M. Ostrogorsky 77 Combined The base camp is best located on the forest boundary in the Dremuchiy stream. The approach from the camp to the route goes through a snowy hollow (it's possible to approach on skis), through a steep ascent - exit to a snowy plateau. Snow ascent to the slope of the summit with rocky fields. From it - to a snowy cirque with rocky outcrops of triangular shape. Ascent is along the left edge, without going down, to the right. Before the summit cirque, the shoulder goes to the right, along it - exit directly to the summit. Ascent time - 5 hours. Descent is via the ascent route.

Characteristics of the Klyuchevskaya group of volcanoes, geographical location.

The Klyuchevskaya group of volcanoes includes the highest volcanoes of Kamchatka and the most powerful glaciers of Erman and Bogdanovich. The most significant volcanoes of the group:

• The highest and most active volcano is Klyuchevskaya Sopka.
• The most technically challenging is the Kamien volcano.
• The largest in terms of glaciation area with a powerful ice dome is Plosky Dalniy (Ushkovsky) volcano. Its crater, with a depth of over 200 m, is filled with ice. Inside the crater, there is an ice cave approximately 1000 m long. The Klyuchevskaya group of volcanoes is located in the center of Kamchatka, 500 km from Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky. The nearest settlements are Kozyrevsk and Klyuchi, located 60 and 40 km away. However, there are no roads to the volcanoes even from these settlements. By a high-clearance vehicle, one can only reach the forest zone boundary; beyond that, the journey continues on foot. Approaches to the start of the routes take 2 to 4 days. The only means that allows quick access to the foot of the volcanoes remains the helicopter. Many alpinist routes of 2A–4B category of difficulty have been traversed in this area.

Vlk. Ovalnaya Zimina. 3081 m, 2A cat. diff., S. Grebnyu, V. Sergeev, 1965. The base camp is conveniently located under the southern slopes of Vlk. Bezymyannyy. There is a volcanologists' house here. From the camp site, the route is clearly visible (see photo). From the camp, crossing the valley, the ascent is along a wide hollow, the approach takes about an hour. Along the hollow - exit to the circus, approaching the steep ascent, the climb straight up, exit to a wide shoulder. Further ascent along the slope to the firn plateau (on the edge of the plateau - a large rocky bastion). From the plateau - ascent along the snowy slope, along a vaguely expressed lava ridge, breaking off to the east with cornices and an icefall. Along the ridge - approach to the pre-summit rocky bashnya, under it traverse - exit to the dome. The entire route is traversed simultaneously in crampons. The dome has two peaks, the southern peak is higher, between the peaks - a small depression. The ascent time takes 8-9 hours. Descent from the summit along the ascent path to the shoulder, then it is more convenient to descend along the ridge through the lateral red dome, consisting of small slag. □

Passport

1. Climbs — high-altitude
2. Climbing area — Eastern Pamir, Trans-Alay Range from the south
3. Climbing routes — via the western slopes of the unnamed peaks 6205 and 6042
4. Climbing characteristics: HEIGHT | 6205 | — 1095 m | | :------------ | :------: | | 6042 | — 932 m | | average steepness — 45° | |

Alpinism Federation of Azerbaijan

Report

On the ascent to

PEAK IBN SINA (LENIN) 7134 m WORLD ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP. HIGH-ALTITUDE CLASS. July 3 — July 23, 2012

Baku, 2012

1. Ascent Passport

1. Region: Kyrgyzstan, Pamir, Trans-Alay range
2. Peak name: Lenin Peak

Description

First ascent to the summit 5150 m (peak Metallurgov Urala) via the central eastern buttress Peak Metallurgov Urala is located in the western part of the Trans-Alai range in a spur running towards Peak Sverdlova, between the summits:

• Akk-Too (to the south)
• p. Nikolaya Kuznetsova (to the north) The ascent was made from the intermediate base camp at 3800 m of the Sverdlovsk jubilee expedition. The intermediate camp "3800" is situated on an old moraine, covered with grass, near a small lake in the upper reaches of the Kок-kьшк valley. The path from the base camp "3800" goes along the left (orographic) bank of the Kоккьшк river across

Description

First ascent of the route to the peak (4670 m) from the north The 4670 m peak is located on the north-eastern ridge of Pik Sverlova. Pik Sverlova is situated east of the Ters-Agar pass in the ridge branching off the main Trans-Alay range to the north. Approach to the route. From the Daraut-Kuran settlement, head 35–40 km northeast to the Tashche-Su gorge, where the base camp of the jubilee Sverlov expedition is located. Depart from the "3100" m base camp of the Sverlov jubilee expedition. Movement:

• Initially, follow a small trail northwest from the camp.
• After 20–30 minutes, ascend to a small saddle between the 3960 m peak and the pillar-like massif, at the foot of which the base camp was located.
• From the saddle, descend to the dry riverbed.
• After crossing the riverbed, ascend via alternating grassy rises in a northwest direction.
• The 3960 m and 4150 m peaks remain on the left.