ASCENT REPORT

I. Climbing area: 2.9.Б, Dagestan Mountains 2. Climbing class: combined 3. Peak, its height: Ortlobak, 3937 m 4. Ascent route: via the southern ridge 5. Estimated difficulty category: 2А, 18 m, 54605 29/1–85 6. Route characteristics: height difference — 400 m, steepness — 30°, length of sections 1st cat. diff. — 450 m, 2 — 220 m, 3 — 20 m

Pits were not used
Overnight stay in the base camp
Surname I.O. of the leader and participants, their sports qualification

Surname I.O.	Qualification
Timoshin M.E.	MS
Kudryavtsev A.I.	2nd sports category
Kozorezov E.F.	2nd sports category
Leonov P.G.	2nd sports category
Yakhyaev R.K.	2nd sports category
Musaev A.A.	3rd sports category

Date of ascent: November 10, 1977 II. Team coach: MS Timoshin M.E.

NOTE: A note from climbers from Kaspiysk dated May 6, 1977 was found at the summit. Team leader Amirkhanov A.

Ortloek, view from the south, from the cirque, November 1977. FED "Mikron" camera.

Brief characteristics of the peak

Mount Ortloek (3937 m) is located in the Snow Ridge to the east of the Diklosmta massif and is separated from it by the East Diklos pass. The massif is composed of shale and consists of two peaks – Western and Eastern (3885 m). The peak drops steeply to the north and southwest with shale walls; to the east and south, it has long, sharp ridges. The described route follows the southern ridge. The first known ascent to Mt. Ortloek was made by climbers from Makhachkala in July 1971, when a group led by K. Akhmedkhanov traversed both peaks of Ortloek from west to east.

Description of approaches to the base camp and route

One can reach the district center of Tsumadinsky district, Agvali, by bus from Makhachkala or by hitchhiking from Grozny via Kharami pass. From Agvali to Sildi, there is a dirt road. Without going up to Sildi, turn left and follow the trail along the Gakko River to the eponymous village (1.5–2 hours).

From Gakko:

follow the right (in the direction of travel) bank of the river;
then via a dirt road 3–4 hours to a clearing at the confluence of the Gakko and Nisliya rivers (about 2400 m).

Here are good sites for a base camp.

Next, it is necessary to ascend to the Diklos cirque, turning from the clearing to the right and climbing the grassy slopes to the terminal lateral moraine of the Diklos-3 glacier (see the area diagram). From the clearing — 1.5–2 hours. From the moraine, climb to the right onto the rocky ridge of the Intikai ridge and follow it to the snow cirque. From the base camp — 4.5–5 hours of walking lightly.

Route description

The route starts in the snow cirque, where the Intikai ridge leads. From the cirque, follow a gentle ridge to the scree slope, which leads to the pre-summit ridge with three snowy saddles (cornices!).

After the second saddle — 20 m steeply up through snow-covered shale rocks (perils).
After the third saddle, reach the pre-summit rocks via a wide scree ridge.

At the summit — a cairn. From the start of the route, 2 hours 30 minutes.

Descent:

northwest to the East Diklos pass (2 sports descents);
then down the snowy slope to the pass saddle;
further south along a steep couloir to the Diklos cirque.

Descent to the base camp — 2.5 hours. Total — from the base camp 9–10 hours for a group of 6–8 people.

On sections R2–R5, travel in rope teams. Equipment — standard.

Route sections table

Date	Designation	Steepness (degrees)	Length (m)	Terrain characteristics	Difficulty	Condition	Weather	Belaying
November 10, 1977	R0–R1	10	300	Ridge	1	Snow-covered rocks and scree	Sunny, windy	—
November 10, 1977	R1–R2	40	150	Slope	1	Snow-covered scree	—	—
November 10, 1977	R2–R3	20	120	Ridge	2	Snow-covered shale rocks	—	Simultaneous belaying
November 10, 1977	R3–R4	60	20	Shale wall	3	—	—	—
November 10, 1977	R4–R5	40	100	Ridge	2	Cornices	—	Alternate belaying, belaying through outcrops