Dumala. Via the SE buttress, category 4A

From the green campsites in the moraine pocket of the Ullu-Auz glacier, ascend along the moraine. Cross a stream and climb a steep talus (partially grassy) slope to a large snowfield (0) and traverse it until the narrow part of the large SE couloir of v. Dumala, known as the "gates," becomes visible (1). Up to this point, the route coincides with the path to the upper cirques of the Ullu-Auz glacier. From the green campsites, it takes 1 hour. It is recommended to spend the night here to pass through the "gates" by 4:00 AM. Rockfall begins at 5:00 AM. The ascent to the "gates" via snow takes about 1 hour. The "gates" are traversed on snow, hugging the right-hand rocks. After the "gates," the couloir widens and turns into a broad snow slope cut by avalanche gullies. Ascend on the right part of the slope under the cover of the rocks of the Eastern peak's ridge. The snow is firm. Protection is running belays.

Koshtan-Tau (5145 m), North Ridge, Cat. 4B

From the "3900" campsite, move in the direction of the upper plateau of the Kundryum-Mijirgi Glacier. The fourth stage of the icefall is climbed:

• near the rocks of the West Ridge of Kundryum-Mijirgi Peak (piton use required!)
• or through the center (crevasses!) of the icefall. Then, move left along the route with a slight ascent to reach the slopes of Ptitsa Peak. It is convenient to camp here (1.5–2 hours from the "3900" campsite). From the plateau, through a small bergschrund, ascend a snowy slope to the rocks at the lower part of Yuzhnaya Ptitsa Peak, left of a vaguely defined couloir. From here:
• ascend slabs (60 m)
• ascend an inclined ledge up to the right (80 m) to reach a rocky terrace. Then, make a short traverse left to the base of the couloir, which after 40 m will lead to a rocky platform on the left part of the snowy-icy slope. Along the wall rocks, on rocks and icy-snowy sections (piton use required!), ascend (120–140 m) to a rocky niche.

Ascent of Koshtan-Tau via the Southeast Ridge with descent along the North Ridge

Accomplished by the MGS DSO "Trud" team under the leadership of MS USSR A. Naumov. Tikhonov Peak Koshtan-Tau from the south (from the Spartak Pass)

Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of the ascent object

The Koshtan-Tau massif, with a height of 5151 m, is located in the northern spur of the central part of the Main Caucasian Range, and together with the peaks:

• Dykh-Tau,
• Mizhirgi,
• Krumkol,

47. Koshtantau via the East Ridge - Category 5B (B. Garf, G. Vedennikov, G. Karavaev, and V. Kizel - August 22, 1948; Fig. 16, 17). The path from the "Bezengi" alpine camp to the "Trud" bivouac in the Dumala gorge is described in route 18. From the "Trud" bivouac:

• Head to the upper plateau of the Ullu-Auz glacier, keeping to the left of the Northeast ridge of Koshtantau, and then to the second glacier icefall leading to the Ullu-Auz pass.
• Ascend the center of the second icefall or closer to the slope of the Koshtan-krest ridge (ice avalanches are possible from the ridge!).
• At the top of the icefall, move left onto the snowy slope of the Koshtan-krest ridge (dangerous!), ascend it, then move right to reach the upper plateau of the Ullu-Auz glacier.
• Follow the plateau, keeping to its left side, and ascend to the Ullu-Auz pass via snowy slopes. Time:
• From "Trud" bivouac to the upper plateau - 4-5 hours.
• To the pass - 5-6 hours.

80

Description of the Ascent Route to Koshtan-Tau Peak (5144 m) via the Central Counterfort of the North Face (First Ascent)

The ascent to Koshtan-Tau (5144 m) from the north via the central counterfort was accomplished between July 11 and 16, 1969, by a group from the LОС DSO TRUD, consisting of:

1. Nosov A.P., CMS - leader
2. Dreitser V.D., CMS - participant
3. Shymelis V.P., CMS - participant
4. Kosobokov L.I., 1st sports category - participant
5. Kuritsyn I.F., 1st sports category - participant Koshtan-Tau (5144 m) is located in the northern spur of the central part of the Main Caucasian Range and is one of the highest peaks in the Caucasus. From the north, several routes have been ascended and classified to the summit: 4B-5B category of difficulty. The path chosen by the group via the central counterfort of Koshtan-Tau's north face had long attracted the attention of Leningrad climbers, but in 1964, it was ascended by Czechoslovakian climbers, although they left no information about their ascent.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — technical.
2. Region — Central Caucasus, Bezengi region.
3. Peak Krumkol (4640) via the Central Bastion of the North face, combined route.
4. First ascent, proposed category of difficulty — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain 1440 m (by altimeter). Length of sections 5–6 km trud. — 480 m. Average steepness 53° (same as Melentyev's route, for which data is available in the USSR Sports Committee).
6. Pitons used: rock 24/4, ice 96, protection gear 15.
7. Total travel time: 15 + 7 + 11 = 33 hours.

1. Altitude-technical class.
2. Caucasus, Bezengi, Northern array, section 25 p. 92 according to the classification table 2001
3. Krumkol, via C rib 6A (Timofeev's route) 4676 m
4. The route is combined.
5. Height difference of the route: 1576 m. Route length: 1735 m. Length of sections: V–VI cat. diff. 1400 m. Average steepness: 70°.
6. Team's walking hours: 30 hours, 2 days.
7. Leader: Viktor Yu. Kramarenko CMS (Kharkov). Participants: Dmitry N. Podlesny CMS (Taganrog), born 1979. Alexander V. Gudzinsky CMS (Uzhgorod).
8. Coach: Valentina T. Orekhova, CMS, 1st category alpinism instructor-methodologist, cert. #550 (Taganrog);

PASSPORT

1. Technical class
2. Caucasus, Mijirgi gorge
3. Peak Krumkol 4676 m via the left part of the North face
4. Difficulty category — 5B, 2nd ascent
5. Elevation gain — 1576 m, length — 1935 m Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 875 m, including 175 m of 6th category. Average steepness of the wall section — 55°
6. Pitons hammered in: | Rock | Bolted | Nuts | Ice | | :--: | :----: | :--: | :--: |

Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi (4500 m) via W and N ridge

From the bivouac on the SW spur of Panoramny peak (3900) cross the glacier tributary, enter the cirque of Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi pass and approach the beginning of the ascent to the pass. From here, 120–150 m along the snow shelf to the right under the walls of Skalniy peak, 150 m up a gentle snow gully, then 80 m up an ice-rock gully (with protection on ledges on the left) to a snow shoulder on the 3rd spur from the main ridge. From the shoulder, down and then 80 m up a snowy-icy gully on the left to the saddle on the N ridge of the summit. 3–4 hours from the bivouac. Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi From the saddle, 40 m along a steep, sharp snow ridge, 150–170 m along a flattening snow slope, and another 120–150 m along a snow ridge with rock outcrops (beware of cornices) to the summit. 1–1.5 hours from the saddle. Descent via the ascent route takes 2.5–3 hours. Hazardous places: closed crevasses on the glacier; rockfall hazard and natty ice on the shelf; possible cornices on the N ridge. Special equipment: 4–5 rock pitons; 2–3 ice screws; crampons for all participants.

ASCENT TO V. KYUNDU̇M-MIZHIRGI VIA THE 3RD RIDGE, CAT. 3B DIFFICULTY Route Description From the "3900" campsite, head towards the Kyundu̇m-Mizhirgi pass. Traverse the icefall at the base of the upper plateau to the left, keeping close to the rocks of the V. Ullu-Auz ridge. Upon reaching the upper plateau, turn right under the snow-ice slope that leads to the shoulder of the 3rd ridge of V. Kyundu̇m-Mizhirgi. Overcome the bergschrund and ascend 200 m up the slope to the ridge shoulder. Pure ice is possible! Crampons, pitons! From the shoulder, traverse the rocky ridge to the right via simple rocks and ascend upwards to the base of the counterfort wall. From here, ascend upwards to the left via a 8–10 m cleft (70–80°) to the base of a couloir with ice and snow. Ascend 50–60 m (45°) up the left side of the couloir to a rocky ridge connector. Traverse 40 m to the left along the ridge via несложным скалам and then descend 3 m into a pass. From the pass, ascend 50 m (35–40°) up a slab (pitons!) to a ledge, then ascend 10 m to the left, from where you can traverse to the right side of the ridge. Move along the right side of the ridge via ledges (80–100 m) to an ice-snow couloir, which leads to a ridge connector (100–120 m) below the summit ascent. Continue by ascending 20 m up a slab, 20–25 m to the left via a cleft, and then upwards to the right to the pre-summit ridge (pitons!). The further route to the summit follows the ridge (200 m). The ascent to the summit from the "3900" campsite takes around 7 hours in good weather.