Description

First ascent to the summit 5150 m (peak Metallurgov Urala) via the central eastern buttress Peak Metallurgov Urala is located in the western part of the Trans-Alai range in a spur running towards Peak Sverdlova, between the summits:

• Akk-Too (to the south)
• p. Nikolaya Kuznetsova (to the north) The ascent was made from the intermediate base camp at 3800 m of the Sverdlovsk jubilee expedition. The intermediate camp "3800" is situated on an old moraine, covered with grass, near a small lake in the upper reaches of the Kок-kьшк valley. The path from the base camp "3800" goes along the left (orographic) bank of the Kоккьшк river across

Description

First ascent of Musa Jalil Peak, category 38, via the eastern ridge by the sports group of the 3rd Anniversary Alpinada of the Tatar ASSR in the Lenin Peak area. Group composition:

1. Yagafarov V.P.
2. Krylov V.N.
3. Faseev K.S.
4. Penkov G.A.
5. Yagafarov I.K.
6. Labutina T.E.

Recreational Climbing in Achik-Tash. Peak Musa Dzhalil via the North Face.

Alpinism, Report, Pamir By khomenyuk, Today at 15:07 On August 31, 2017, we successfully completed a first ascent via the north face of Peak Musa Dzhalil (4800 m, according to the classifier). From the Ak-Sai Travel base camp in Achik-Tash, we reached the summit and returned in ten and a half hours. We thoroughly enjoyed the route. In anticipation of the new season, I'm sharing a detailed description of the route.

Ascent Details

1. Pamir, Trans-Alay Range, Achik-Tash valley, category 4.4 according to the 2017 classification table.
2. Peak Musa Dzhalil, 4800 m, via the North face.
3. Proposed category — 3B, first ascent.
4. Route type: ice and snow.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Pamir, Zaalai Ridge (section 4.4 p. 50 KMGV).
2. Route: Petrovskogo peak (4700 m), from Achik-Tash gorge (A. Zaidler, 1966).
3. Category: 1B
4. Route characteristics: the route is combined.
5. Height difference of the route: 1500 m.
6. Route length: 2500 m.
7. Average slope of the main part: 30°.
8. Climbing hours on the route: – 10 hours.

Ascent Passport

1. Pamir, Zaalaysky ridge (section 4.4, p. 51 KMGV).
2. Route: Petrovskogo peak (4700 m), From the ridge from the pass from Dzipak peak (G. Starikov, 1967).
3. Complexity category: 3B.
4. Route characteristics: the route is combined.
5. Height difference of the route: 450 m.
6. Route length: 1350 m.
7. Length of sections with 3rd category complexity: 400 m.
8. Average steepness of the main part: 40°.
9. Maximum steepness: 45°.

Report on the First Ascent of the Route to Peak Petrovsky (4700 m) via the North Face.

Climbing Details

1. Pamir. Trans-Alay Range. Peak Petrovsky 4700 m. Presumed 5A category, first ascent. Route type — ice. Route elevation gain — 750 m. Route length — 950 m.
2. Section lengths: II — 50 m, III — 200 m, IV — 445 m, V — 245 m, V+ — 10 m.
3. Average slope: main part of the route — 55°.
4. Pitons left on the route: total — 0;

Report on the ascent of Peak "50 лет ВЛКСМ" (5801 m) via the eastern edge (first ascent) by the sports group of the Tomsk Alpinade Khrebet Kommunarov June–August 1968 Group leader (E.F. Kharchenko) Team coach (G.G. Andreev) Tomsk 1968

1. General Information

"APPROVED" Head of the 4th Department of the Turkestan Military District, Lieutenant Colonel (Yas'kov) "10" October 1954 DESCRIPTION OF THE FIRST TRAVERSE OF THE LENIN PEAK MASSIF (7134 m). The first high-altitude traverse of the Lenin Peak massif was carried out by a group of climbers from the Turkestan Military District and the Uzbek Committee of Physical Culture, consisting of V. A. Kovalev (leader of the traverse), E. I. Nagel, and V. N. Naryshkin (all - TurkVO), P. M. Karpov, and V. K. Nozdryukhin (Committee of Physical Culture and Sports of the Uzbek SSR) over 7 days, from August 28 to September 3, 1954. The traverse of a seven-thousand-meter peak was first undertaken and accomplished by Soviet climbers. From the summit of Lenin Peak, a note from the 1950 ascenders - a team of climbers from the TurkVO - and a broken plaster bust of V. I. Lenin, wrapped in a red flannel shirt, left on the summit by the 1934 ascenders, were retrieved.

Passport

1. Snow and ice class.
2. Pamir, West Zaalai.
3. Proposed 4A category of complexity, first ascent.
4. Height 5900 m.
5. Height difference 1650 m.
6. Travel time - 3 days ascent, 1 day descent.
7. Bratkov Yu.N., 6GU, 4th with elements of 5th GR, leader, Belov A.A., 4th with elements of 5th GU, Kondratiev V.L., 5GU, Roshchin P.A., el. 5GU.
8. August 1995.
9. The ascent was made as part of a sports mountain trip.

П. Brief Geographical Description of the Climbing Area

Central Pamir is bounded to the north by the Muksuv River (below Surkhob) and to the south by the Bartang River (above Kudaroy). To the east, the area is bounded by the Zulumart Range, and to the west by the western spurs of the Petra Pervogo and Darvaz Ranges, as well as the large arc of the Pyanj River near Khorog. Central Pamir is a concentration of high ranges, powerful glaciers, and giant peaks. Most of the ranges in the area have a latitudinal direction. The northernmost of these is the Petra Pervogo Range. To the south lies the Darvaz Range, carrying peaks such as Peak Garmo (6595 m) and Arnavad (6083 m). The base camp of the "Vysochnik" alpine camp, which was visited by the team from the Dnipropetrovsk Regional Council of the "Avangard" Sports Society, was located in the upper reaches of the Vanch Valley. The Vanch Valley is bounded:

• to the north by the Darvaz Range,
• to the south by the Vanch Range.