Activity Feed
Route Description: ЮЗ склону
Description of the team’s ascent to Khan-Tengri Peak via the Pogrebetsky route (southwestern slope) with a complexity category of 5B.
Passport
- High-altitude class
- Central Tian-Shan, South Inylchek Glacier
- Peak Khan-Tengri via the southwest slope (Pogrebetsky route)
- Category 5B difficulty
- Elevation gain — 1095 m, length — 1700 m (main part of the route). Total elevation gain — 2595 m. Length of category 5 sections — 590 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 45°, category 5 sections — 55°–60° (6700–6850 m). Pitons used: Rock — 52, bolt — 0, chocks — 16, ice — 5.
- Team's travel hours: 18, days — 3.
Route Description: С гребню
Report on the ascent of the Yenisei mountaineering club team to Khan-Tengri peak via the north ridge as part of the RSFSR Alpine Championship in the high-altitude class.
Passport
- Altitude class
- Tian-Shan, North Inylchek Glacier
- Peak Khan-Tengri, via North Ridge
- 55 km
- Elevation gain — 2995 m, distance — 5560 m. Length of sections 5 km – 660 m. Average steepness of the route — 33°. Excluding the snow plateau (5900–6000 m) and the summit dome (6920–6995 m) — 50°.
- Pitons hammered: | rock | nuts | ice screws | | :--: | :---: | :------: |
Route Description: С ребру
First ascent description of Peak N. Armstrong (4909 m) via the north wall in the Central Tian Shan, EE difficulty grade, climbed by the Profsport-II team in 16 hours on August 12.
Ascent Passport
I. Ascent category — ice and snow 2. Ascent area — Central Tien-Shan; Terskey Ala-Too ridge 3. Peak named after N. Armstrong (4909 m) via the North face. 4. Estimated category of difficulty — 6B. First ascent. 5. Height difference — 830 m. Distance — 1270 m. Distance of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 830 m. Average steepness — 43°. Steepness of the wall section — 51° 6. Pitons driven:
| rock 3/0 | bolt | chocks | ice |
|---|
Route Description: правой части С стены
Ascent route description to Peak 4700 in Terskey Ala-Too via the right part of the North face, complexity category 5.5.
Passport
- Ice and snow class
- Tian-Shan, Terskey Alatoo, Jetyoguz valley
- p. Baitor, 4700 m, right part of the North face
- Proposed – 5B–6B category of difficulty, first ascent
- Height difference: 1050 m, route length – 1510 m, face – 1360 m, length of V–VI category sections – 1000 m, including 6 category – 70 m
- Average steepness of the main part of the route – 54°
- Pitons: rock – 17, ice – 247.
- Climbing hours – 13.5
Route Description: правой части С стены
Description of a 5B category route through the right part of the north face of the peak 20 let Oktyabrya "Komsomolets Kirgizii" (4700 m) in Tian Shan.
PASSPORT
I. Class — ice and snow 2. Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too, Baytor gorge 3. Peak "20 let gazety 'Komsomolets Kirgizii'" (4700 m) via the right part of the north face, ice and snow route 4. Proposed — 5B category of difficulty, second ascent 5. Height difference — 1050 m, length — 1350 m Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 1100 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 52° 6. Pitons driven:
- rock — 2
- bolt — 0
Route Description: ледовому кулуару 3 гребня
Description of the team's ascent to Peak **Baytor** (4700 m) via a snow-ice route, category 5B, on the north face.
Passport
- Ice-snow class
- Terskey Ala-Too, Baytor gorge
- Peak Baytor (4700 m), via the icy couloir of the northern wall
- Proposed — 5B category of difficulty (second ascent)
- Elevation gain: 850 m, length — 1550 m. Elevation gain of the main part of the route: 730 m, length — 910 m. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 650 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 52° (3850–4580 m).
- Pitons driven: | Type of pitons | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice | | :----------: | :--: | :--: | :--: | :--: |
Route Description: центру С стены 3 гребня
Description of the first ascent of the 20 Let Komsomola Kyrgyzстана peak via the northern wall of the western summit, ice and snow complexity category, accomplished by the Moscomsport team in 1988.
30
Passport
- Class — ice and snow
- Terskey Ala-Too, Bantor gorge
- Summit "20 лет газеты «Комсомолец Киргизии»" via the center of the north face of the western shoulder.
- Proposed — 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
- Height difference: 750 m, length — 965 m Length of sections with 5B category of difficulty — 825 m Average steepness of the main part of the route — 52° (3700–4450) Average steepness of the rocky part — 63° (3820–4030)
Route Description: СВ стене
Description of the 4A category complexity route to the summit of Oguz-Bashi (5170) in the Terskey Ala-Too ridge via the North-Eastern wall.
Passport
I CLASS 2-technical. Central Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge, Jety-Oguz gorge. Oguz-Bashi Peak (5170) via North-East wall. 4A cat. diff. Height difference: 1600 m, wall section: 900 m. Length: 2700 m (including descent to the glacier). Length of sections with 5-6 diff.: 700 m. Average slope of the route: 55°, with 6 diff.: 75°. Pitons used:
- rock: 25
- ice: 32
- chocks: 16.5 Team's travel time: 48 hours, days: 4.
Route Description: С стене через ледопад
**First ascent of Oguz-bashi II West via the North wall through the ice fall, category 6A, with a detailed analysis of tactics and technical details of the ascent.**
Passport
- Ice and snow class
- Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too, Jety-Oguz gorge
- Oguz-bashi II Western peak (5000 m) via the North face "through the icefall"
- Proposed category of difficulty — 6A first ascent
- Route description: elevation gain — 750 m, length — 990 m, length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 600 m, 6th category of difficulty — 190 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 57° (4200–4850), including 6th category of difficulty sections: 65° (4650–4725), 85° (4770–4850), 105–120° (4830–4880)
- Pitons used: rock: 0, bolt: 0, chocks: 0, ice: 430* * — including 130 per rope team during independent movement and an additional 40 during interaction (130 × 3 + 40).
Route Description: 3 гребню
Ascent to the peak "Moskovsky Komsomolets" via the western ridge, a combined route of category 3B difficulty, 16 hours.
Moskovsky Komsomolets via the west ridge, combined, 1B
Route description:
Exit from the Ullu-Tau camp along the trail leading to rock climbing exercises. From the end of the trail, up the couloir and then left onto the moraine to the lake. From the lake, up to the right onto the snowy shoulder of the rock protruding into the cirque from the slopes of Moskovsky Komsomolets. Overnight stay on the shoulder.
From the overnight stay, we ascend a snow slope of moderate steepness (ЗСИЮ0) to reach the northern edge. We follow the snowy ridge to the first gendarme head-on. Then, along the snowy saddle to a group of rocks and further to a large boulder. Along the steep snowy ridge, we proceed to the foot of the ring-shaped gendarme. The gendarme is passed on the left along the wall, exiting onto the left shoulder. Protection is provided through ledges. Further along the snowy ridge, we approach the summit tower and ascend the Eastern summit via rocks of moderate difficulty.
The descent from the Eastern summit is done along the ridge to the saddle in the direction of Azot peak. Initially, we overcome a wall and then follow the snowy ridge, overcoming a series of small gendarmes that lead to a couloir. After passing the couloir, we exit onto the ridge somewhat above the saddle. The descent from the saddle is along a 45° snow slope.
Careful belaying is necessary due to the possibility of a bergschrund. Further, the slope becomes more gentle and leads into the glacier cirque. The descent to the camp is done via the ascent route.