Suaryk Peak

Due to the isolated location of Suaryk peak and the long approaches from the north, climbers were unaware of the existence of the north face. Tenishev, who worked with geologists near the northern slopes of Suaryk, was the first to notice this face. In 1965, a snow-avalanche expedition of VGI worked in this area, which included climbers:

• Kakiani I.G.
• Zalikhanov M.Ch.
• Lezhenin A.I.
• Shatsky S.I. They recommended this ascent as an excellent wall, which could well be claimed for the USSR Climbing Championship.

Preliminary Preparation for the Ascent

Preparation for the ascent began in April 1967, after the event was approved by the Climbing Federation of the KBA SSR DSO "Spartak". A preliminary training plan was drawn up. It included general physical training sessions - 2 times a week, which included elements such as:

First ascent of the right part of the NE wall of peak Suaryk V. 3950 m (rock climbing category)

Report on the First Ascent

On the first ascent to peak Suaryk via the right part of the NE wall, approximately category 5B difficulty, accomplished by the team from Baksan Alpine Training and Sports Base (AUSB "Baksan") from August 3, 1990, to August 5, 1990. Coach: Drobot Stanislav Yuryevich Team Leader: Kruglovenko Alexander Vasilyevich Alpine Training and Sports Base "Baksan" 361603, KB ASSR, postal office Elbrus, AUSB "Baksan" Drobot Stanislav Yuryevich

PASSPORT

1. Category strong.
2. Central Caucasus, Suvrik Valley.
3. Peak Suaryk Eastern, center of the SW wall, 3950 m.
4. Proposed - 5B category, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain: 625 m, length 895 m.
6. Length of sections with 5-6 category difficulty: 320 m. Average slope of the route - 63°. Average slope of the wall section of the route - 74°.
7. Pitons hammered in: | Rock Pitons | Bolt Pitons | Nuts |

6. Traverse of the Suaryk massif from east to west (P. Yakuts route, cat. 4A). The path from the village of Verkhny Baksan to the initial bivouac on the platforms in the upper reaches of Zugully is described in route 4. From the platforms (a group of 4–8 people) ascent along grassy slopes to the right of the scree descending from the moraine rampart (rockfall along the scree!), and at the top exit to the moraine rampart. Further up along gentle snow-covered scree and simple rocks to a narrow (3–5 m wide) couloir-chimney descending from the col between the Eastern Gendarme and the ascent of the Eastern ridge of the Suaryk East summit. From the platforms 2.5–3 hours. From the scree straight up along the 120-meter couloir-chimney (rockfall, "live" stones, piton belays!). The couloir gradually narrows,

Ascent Passport Terskolak (NW) 2B, via S slope and W ridge

Table of Contents

• APPROACH
• ASCENT — start
• ASCENT — glacier
• ASCENT — gendarme
• ASCENT — wall
• DESCENT
• ROUTE SECTIONS TABLE
• APPENDIX 1

132. Ullukara via North Counterforce and East Ridge (Category IV A route). The path from the "Jantugan" alpine camp to the foot of the North Counterforce of Ullukara summit with the initial bivouac at the terminal moraine of Bashkara glacier is described in route 136. From the glacier, along a steep snowy slope, bypassing the lower rocky outcrop of the North Counterforce from the left side, reach under the rocky wall. Bypass the wall from the right with an exit to a couloir and ascend 80–100 m (belay!) via non-steep, partially snow-covered easy to moderately difficult rocks of the couloir to a ridge platform. 3–4 hours from the glacier. Then, along heavily destroyed ridge rocks or its right side, ascend to a platform below an ice-snow slope. 3–4 hours from the first counterforce

I. Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Climbing area — Central Caucasus.
3. Peak — Ullu-Kara via the left part of the north-eastern wall (first ascent).
4. Difficulty category: 5B, approximate.
5. Route characteristics:
   • total length — 1545 m.
   • height difference — 1300 m.
   • average steepness — 47°.
   • length of sections with 5.6 difficulty category — 500 m

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — ROCK
2. Ascent region — CENTRAL CAUCASUS
3. Peak, its height, route — MALAYA USHBA, 4200 m, via the SOUTHWEST BUTTRESS, COMBINED
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 700 m route length — 860 m length of sections with 5B–6 category of difficulty — 242 m average steepness of the route — 59°

1985 RSFSR Championship. First Ascent Category

Malaia Ushba 4200 m. via the Southwest Buttress, cat. 5B (approx.) First ascent. Team from the Kursk Regional Sports Committee. Team Leader — Valentin Alexandrovich Kudryavtsev, Candidate Master of Sports, 1st category. Team Coach — Valentin Alexandrovich Kudryavtsev, Candidate Master of Sports, 1st category. 1985.

Addresses and Phone Numbers

Organizations: 305000, Kursk, Krasnaya Square, 6. Kursk Regional Sports Committee.

1. Pivushka
2. Nastenko Rocks
3. Snezhnaya — ice trainer — overnight stays

   N.

NORTHERN UZHBA — 4B cat. climbing route. The height of the summit is 4694 m. The Uzhba massif is located somewhat south of the Main Caucasian Range in Upper Svaneti. To the northwest of Uzhba lies the Shkhielda summit massif, to the north — Shchurovskogo Peak, to the east — Chatyn-Tau.