- Ullukara via North Counterforce and East Ridge (Category IV A route). The path from the "Jantugan" alpine camp to the foot of the North Counterforce of Ullukara summit with the initial bivouac at the terminal moraine of Bashkara glacier is described in route 136. From the glacier, along a steep snowy slope, bypassing the lower rocky outcrop of the North Counterforce from the left side, reach under the rocky wall. Bypass the wall from the right with an exit to a couloir and ascend 80–100 m (belay!) via non-steep, partially snow-covered easy to moderately difficult rocks of the couloir to a ridge platform. 3–4 hours from the glacier. Then, along heavily destroyed ridge rocks or its right side, ascend to a platform below an ice-snow slope. 3–4 hours from the first counterforce platform. From the platform (pitched belay, crampons!) ascend 120–150 m via a steep ice-snow slope to the rocks of the upper counterforce part. From here, ascend via snow-covered, heavily destroyed easy to moderately difficult rocks, then along a 120-meter ice-snow ridge (ice axes, pitched belay!) to a ridge col between Ullukara summit on the right and Bashkara on the left. 4–5 hours from the second counterforce platform. Bivouac on the col. From the col, via snowy fields and slopes, reach the rocks of a gendarme. Bypass the gendarme from the left (belay!) along a snowy slope. Then, along an easy ridge (cornices!) approach the second gendarme — the "Tower". Ascend directly to the "Tower" via easy, partially difficult, heavily destroyed rocks. Then, along a snowy slope-ridge (cornices!) with three rocky outcrops, exit to a snowy rise of a dome and ascend to Ullukara summit. 4–5 hours from the East Ridge junction. Descend via the West Counterforce (see route 129). Route duration: 4 days. Special equipment for 4 people: main rope — 2 × 30 m, accessory cord — 2 m, rock pitons — 8–10, ice pitons — 3–4, rock hammers — 2, carabiners — 10–12, crampons — 4 pairs, tent — 1. Possible bivouac locations — on platforms, snowy ridges, and slopes. ("Baksan Valley", A.F. Naumov)
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