9.25

Climbing Marieta's Opirogama and etc. routes via tuporame cuscefitkh.

Ascent of Chatyn-Tau via the Northern wall (Peruvian style).

Category of difficulty 5B

From "Shkelda" alpine camp the group reaches Shkelda overnight stay via the usual route. Through Loznыy Chatyn pass the group descends to the Chalaat glacier under the northern wall of Chatyn-Tau. Here they spend the night. Via large avalanche cones the group ascends through a subglacial crevice to the first rocky outcrop. The rocks are steep, smooth, and have the appearance of a narrow and high isosceles triangle. The apex of this triangle abuts the overhang of a black gendarme. To the right of the triangle is a large

PASSPORT 221

1. Rock climbing category
2. Central Caucasus. Uzibinskaya group of peaks area.
3. Chaty-Tau peak 4363 m via the right edge of the North wall triangle (route via Garfa)
4. Category 5B difficulty
5. Elevation gain: 700 m, length 1430 m. Length of sections of category 5B: 560 m. Length of sections of category 6: 20 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route is 60°
6. Pitons driven:

• rock: 14

230. Chatyn from the III ascent of the East ridge (the route is combined, I. Solodueva, 5B cat. sl., fig. 32, 33). From the upper plateau of the Chalaat glacier (p. 216. go left to the ice-snow cushion under the northern walls of the III ascent of Chatyn East ridge. From the cushion, traverse 300–400 m up-left along the steep ice-snow slope and, crossing ice gutters (avalanches, stones), smoothed rocky outcrops, rock outcrops, reach the sites of the East ridge under the III ascent of Chatyn. Bivouac. From the plateau 3–5 hours. From the site, along the snow-covered shelf 20–30 m to the left and from it 60–70 m up — to the right along

PASSPORT

1. Rock class
2. Caucasus, Shkhelda gorge
3. Chatyn peak (4368 m) via the N counterfort of the NE ridge
4. Difficulty category 5B, second ascent
5. Route elevation gain 900 m, route length 1500 m. Counterfort elevation gain 600 m, length 700 m. Average slope of the counterfort 65°. Length of sections with 5-6 difficulty category 300 m.
6. Pitons hammered in: | rock | bolt | chocks | ice | |:----:|:-----:|:------:|:---:| | 46 | 0 | 127 | 12 |

Ascent Log

I. Winter Climbing Category. 2. Climbing Area: Central Caucasus, spur of the Main Caucasian Range. 3. Peak Chatyn 4368 m, route via the right part of the North face. 4. First ascent. Proposed difficulty category 5B. 5. Route characteristics up to the ridge: height difference — 710 m, length — 855 m, average steepness — 56°, length of 5 m/tr sections — 675 m. 6. Pitons used: ice screws — 78, rock pitons — 2, chock stones — 4, bolt pitons — 0. 7. Total climbing hours: ascent with processing — 18.5, descent to Base Camp — 10.5. 8. Overnight stay: half-lying, on the shoulder before the ridge, ice was chopped. 9. Leader: Viktor Petrovich Avtomonov, Master of Sports.

Report

of the Tashgorsportkomitet team on the ascent of Mt. Chatyn (main) 4368 m via the "diamond" of the northern wall (variant along the edge) UzSSR, Tashkent 1981

Profile of the wall section of the route

Orography and brief history of exploration

Mt. Chatyn is located in a spur of the Main Caucasus Range, branching off between the peaks of Malaya Ushba and Shchurovsky. The spur is a sharp rocky-ice (snow) ridge, with three distinct peaks: Western, Main, and Eastern Chatyn. The Western peak was first conquered in 1912 by Golubev via a relatively easy route from the Ushba plateau. The exploration of Chatyn's wall began only in 1952. B.A. Garf's group passed a route through the Northern wall. In 1954, I.P. Leonov's group traversed the peaks Chatyn-Ushba-Mazeri, ascending via a steep counterfort of the Northern wall. In 1957, I.V. Solodueva's group traversed the eastern edge of the massif. It wasn't until 1959 that the "diamond" of the Northern wall was conquered - a huge black rocky overhang beneath the Main peak. Two teams - A. Snesarev's and L. Myshlyaev's - after a multi-day assault, established two routes of the highest category on Chatyn. To date, five routes have been passed through the "diamond" of the Northern wall (I. Chernoslivin, 1965, I. Bolizhevsky, 1969, V. Krakovich, 1972, in addition to the two mentioned above), the technical difficulty of which is undeniable, as proven by time.

Conditions of the ascent to Mt. Chatyn via the "diamond" of the Northern wall (variant along the edge)

PASSPORT

1. Technical Grade
2. Central Caucasus
3. v. Chatyn (Main) via the "diamond" on the north wall (Myshlyaev's route)
4. 6A category of difficulty
5. Elevation gain — 800 m, length — 1000 m, length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 450 m, of which 6 category of difficulty — 270 m.
6. Pitons driven: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice screws | | :---: | :----: | :---: | :------: | | 37+10^ | 24^ | 67 | 23 |

1. Class of winter ascents.
2. Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range.
3. Chatyn via "Romb" chimneys of the Northern wall (Myshlyaev's route).
4. Difficulty category — 6B.
5. Height difference — 768 m, route length — 1175 m.
6. Length of sections with 5–6 diff. cat. — 575 m. Length of sections with 6 diff. cat. — 515 m. Average steepness of the wall part of the route — 86°.
7. Pitons driven: | rock | ice | protection elements | bolt (used) | | :--: | :-: | :-----------------: | :---------: |

Passport

1. Technical class
2. Central Caucasus
3. Peak Chatyn Main — 4368 m, "по ромбу" North wall (route by L. Myshlyaev)
4. 6B category of difficulty
5. Elevation gain — 770 m, length — 880 m Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 520 m Average steepness of the main part of the route — 83° (3600–4040 m), including 6B cat. diff. — 95° (3825–3860 m; 3935–4030 m)

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent region — Central Caucasus.
3. Peak Chatyn — 4368 m, route along the diagonal of the "diamond" on the North Wall, combined (10. Chernoslivina).
4. 6B difficulty category.
5. Elevation gain — 800 m, length — 990 m, length of sections with 5B–6B difficulty — 560 m, average steepness — 63°.
6. Pitons hammered: