Otechestvennoy voyny 1Б cat. difficulty via Mayakovsky peak's North ridge

Route description.

The peak Otechestvennoy voyny is located in the central part of the Maloalmatinsky spur; Mayakovsky peaks rise to the south of it, and Antikainen peak is to the north. On the western side and northern slopes of the lateral ridge of Mayakovsky peak, a small Mayakovsky Glacier descends. The eastern slopes are cut by narrow stepped couloirs, separated by steep rocky ridges. The starting bivouac is near the Mynzhilki weather station. From here, cross the Malaia Alma-Atinka river and go around the Manshuk Mametova glacier at its foot; then ascend to the ablation zone of the Mayakovsky Glacier. Move along the moraine, then along the

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — rock climbing 2. Ascent area — Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau ridge, Sredniy Talgar gorge. 3. Peak TAGANAI, 3800 m, West wall. 4. Estimated cat. difficulty — 2B 5. Route characteristics:

• Height difference — 430 m.
• Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — none
• Average steepness — 60°.

6. Pitons hammered in:

Fizkulturnik - Chkalova, traverse, category 2B

Route description

From the initial bivouac in the Talgar Pass area, move along the Bogdanovich Glacier towards the saddle between Peak Komsomola and Fizkulturnik peak. From there, ascend to the ridge of Fizkulturnik peak, approach its base, and ascend to the southeastern summit. After descending, move along a relatively easy ridge towards the western summit of the Fizkulturnik massif. After ascending and descending from it, cross the cirque and ascend to the northeastern summit of Fizkulturnik. Then, the ridge, gradually rising, leads to the main summit. From it, descend to a sub-summit and continue descending to the left. The first gendarme after the main summit can be overcome directly or bypassed from the southern side (cautiously!). When ascending to the saddle between the first and second gendarmes, the section is hazardous (rockfall), and the rocks are heavily destroyed. The second gendarme is taken directly with thorough belaying. When descending from it, belaying is necessary; it is also possible to bypass it from the right - only if there is a deep snow cover closing the crevices. The following sections of the route:

• A gentle snow plateau in the upper reaches of the Til Glacier;
• Ascend between groups of rocks along snow-covered slabs;
• Move to the saddle between Fizkulturnik and Chkalova peaks;

7.2. 231

Ascent Registration Form

Ascent category Ascent area Summit Estimated difficulty category Route characteristics Travel time Leader's full name Team coach ОСО

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent region, ridge, gorge — Tian-Shan, Inylchek ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Mayda-Adyr, 4090 m, via the right N ridge
4. Route difficulty category — 1B cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain — 1590 m, section length — average slope —
6. Pitons hammered for belay: rock — ice — protection gear —
7. Number of climbing hours — 12 h

Snapshot from the Transcarpathian summit

Photo 1. Its profile — the western wall of the 5th Koronna tower (view from the Izyiskatel summit, 1966, after bad weather)

View — from Hira, from Akcha-Koro

1. Traverse v. Uchitel', 4527 m — v. Kaichechekay, 4515 m, 2B — 7.08.84, Pronin M. — team leader, Timoshenko T., Fyodorov S., Timofeyev A.

204. Kayarta Glavnaya via the South Ridge (Category 1B route). The path from the "Adylsu" alp camp to the Shternberg Pass through the Tyutyusu gorge is described in routes 184 and 203. From the pass, turn left and exit onto the rocky South Ridge of Kayarta Glavnaya peak. From here, ascend simple and solid ridge rocks. Bypass the first 30-meter-high gendarme on the right (belay!). Beyond it:

• ascend the severely damaged simple rocky ridge,
• then traverse along the right snowy slope to reach the rocky edge of the South shoulder,
• ascend 50–60 m up the moderately difficult rocks of the edge. Then: