Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Rock Ridge, Classification section number 2.8.
2. Dashtsar (2918 m) – via the South face.
3. Proposed category: 3B, first ascent.
4. Route type — rock climbing.
5. Route elevation gain — 320 m (from point R0). Total route length — 580 m. Length of sections with category 5 difficulty — 20 m. Crux pitch steepness — up to 95°. Average steepness of the wall section — 70°.
6. Pitons left on the route — 3. Pitons used on the route — 9. Chocks used on the route — 15.

Ascent Passport

I. Climbing category: technical 2. Climbing area: Caucasus; 2.8; Kolka glacier 3. Peak, route: Dzhimaraikhokh peak (4773 m); I knee-fold of the North ridge from Kolka glacier 4. Estimated category of difficulty — 3B category of difficulty; first ascent 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 2000 m, route length — 2800 m, length of sections: 5 category of difficulty — 20 m, 4 category of difficulty — 200 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 40°–45° 6. Pitons hammered: ice screws — 50 pcs., rock pitons — 3 pcs., chocks — none 7. Number of climbing hours/days — 20/2

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category: rock (combined)
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, 2.8, Midagrabindon River valley
3. Peak, route: Donchenty (4192), E ridge
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 1B rock, partially traversed
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 850 m, route length — 1250 m, length of sections with category 2 difficulty — 120 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 45°
6. Pitons hammered: protection through ice axe and rock outcrops.
7. Number of walking hours/days — 12/1 (7 hours).

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus. Lateral Ridge, Tsariutdon gorge, section number in KMGV 2.8.
2. Donchenty North (4082 m) via the Western counterfort.
3. 2A category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route character — rocky.
5. Route height difference — 900 m. Total route length — about 1800 m. Average route steepness — 30°.
6. Pitons driven: rocky — 6, ice — 2, placements — 2.
7. Travel hours — 12; days — 1.

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing area: North Caucasus, Midagrabin gorge
2. Peak name — route name: ZEYGALAN (4244 m) — Left buttress of the western wall
3. Proposed: 5B category of difficulty, first ascent
4. Route type: combined
5. Route height difference:
   • Route length: 1300 m
   • Length of sections with V category: 215 m
   • Length of sections with VI category: 85 m
   • Average steepness of the main part: 70°

Report

on the first ascent to the top of Zamaraeva, along the South-West ridge, category 1B difficulty, by the team of the North Ossetian Rescue Squad of the Ministry of Emergency Situations of Russia and Tsentrospas on July 6-7, 2019 2019

1. Ascent Passport

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Zrug gorge, Classification section number 2.8.
2. Zekara (3828 m) — via the North Ridge.
3. Proposed category: 1B-2A, first ascent.
4. Route type — rock.
5. Route elevation gain — about 600 m (from point R0). Total route length — about 2 km. Length of sections with category 4 difficulty — 10 m. Steepness of key sections — 80°. Average steepness of the route — 35°.
6. Pitons left on the route — none. Pitons used on the route — none. Chocks used on the route — 5.

Passport

1. Technical class
2. Caucasus, Genaldon gorge, Maili glacier
3. Kazbek peak via NW ridge-slope from Maili glacier
4. Proposed 2B category of difficulty, combined, first ascent
5. Elevation gain 2750 m, length (height) of sections: 2B category of difficulty — 1200 m, 3A category of difficulty — 150 m, 2A category of difficulty — 700 m. Average steepness of the rocky part of the route — 35–40°, steepness of the dome (snow-ice) — 40–45°.
6. No pitons were left on the route previously.
7. Team's travel hours: ascent — 12, descent — 12, including 4 hours searching for the path during descent from the summit in fog.
8. Two nights — on the "shoulder" of the plateau

North Kaidzhany from the East

PD - PD+ cat. diff. The Kaidzhany massif is part of the Kazbek group of peaks in the Central Caucasus. North Kaidzhany is located in the northern spur of Peak Spartak. The summit is a nodal point. The northern ridge leads to Malaia Kaidzhany (3700 m), the southwestern ridge leads to South Kaidzhany (3916 m), and the southeastern ridge leads to Peak 25th anniversary of SKGMI (3870 m). The following routes are laid on North Kaidzhany:

1. From the South from Chachskoye gorge — 1B cat. diff.
2. Along the Northern ridge with exit from the gorge of the Belaya River. — PD cat. diff. The route along the Eastern edge from the Belaya River gorge was first climbed on August 5, 1973, by a group of climbers from Ordzhonikidze led by R. P. Proskuryakov. The ascent with return to Ordzhonikidze takes 1.5 days.

Terrain

Drive along the Military Georgian Road to the village of Verkhniy Lars (1200 m above sea level). To the right, before the village, the Belaya River flows into the Terek River. Walk along the trail along the left bank for about 3 hours to the area of the trough-shaped expansion of the gorge.

REPORT

on the ascent to Mt. "Dzhailyk" (4533 m) via the Southwest Counterfort of the Western Ridge by the Dzhailyk Alpine Camp team (first ascent) Team leader — Ivanov Alexander Vasilyevich Team coach — Popov Viktor Pavlovich 1983 Alpine Camp "Dzhailyk" 360 000 Nalchik, P.O. Box 47 Team leader — Ivanov Alexander Vasilyevich 141 400 Moscow Region, Khimki, Aptechnaya St., 6, apt. 17 Team coach — Popov Viktor Pavlovich