Brief Description of the Route

From the Adyl-su alpine camp, descend along the road to the confluence of the Kuriu River and the Baksan River. Then, ascend into the Kuriu gorge to the left (in the direction of travel) of the waterfall. Next, follow the trail to the cow shed on the moraine ridge. After passing the cow shed, proceed along the moraine to the tongue of the Kuriu glacier. Traverse the glacier, staying on the right-hand side, to the rocky shoulder below the peak MNR Severnaia. Set up a bivouac on the shoulder. The journey from the Baksan River takes 5-6 hours. From the shoulder, ascend along the glacier to a wide couloir between MNR Pikhnaya and MNR Tsentralnaya. Climb the couloir, bypassing an icy rocky outcrop on the left, and ascend 100 m to a col on a long ridge. From the col, ascend upwards and to the right along a pronounced internal angle for 60 m. Then, traverse 60 m to the right along ledges below overhanging "rusty" rocks. Continue upwards and to the left for 80 m along a wall and a chimney, exiting onto the southern ridge of the peak MNR Tsentralnaya. Ascend along the sharp ridge (the gandari can be bypassed on the left via ledges) and broken rocks to below the summit tower. Below the summit tower, descend 10 m to the left into a depression and ascend along an internal angle to the western ridge of the peak MNR Tsentralnaya. Continue along easy rocks and ledges on the ridge for 200 m to reach the summit of MNR Tsentralnaya. The journey from the initial bivouac takes 8-10 hours. Descend from the summit along the western ridge to a col between MNR Tsentralnaya and MNR Dro-Zapadnaya, and then down a wide couloir onto the Kuriu glacier plateau. Special equipment for 4 people:

1. Main rope 2 × 40 m.
2. Rock hammers — 2 pcs.
3. Carabiners — 8 pcs.
4. Rock pitons — 8 pcs.
5. Auxiliary cord — 5 m.

331. Nenskra via the North Face (combined route, A. Snesareva, category 4A, fig. 32, 44). From the initial bivouac on the snowy plateau of the Nenskra Glacier under the North Face of Nenskra Peak, ascend via an avalanche couloir, then via easy and moderately difficult rocks, interspersed with snowy slopes and small walls (loose rocks), to the Upper Rock Belt. From here, via steep, heavily broken rocks of above average difficulty, ascend to the Upper Rock Island. Then, via a steep ice-snow slope with rock outcrops, ascend to the col on the ridge between the Southwest and Northeast summits of Nenskra. From the glacier plateau, 7–8 hours. From the col, turn right and ascend via easy rocks of the ridge's spur to the summit of

Description of the Pik I Maya 4B cat. sl. route

From the base of the central couloir of Pik I Maya to the right side 200–230 m to the right side of the rocky outcrop. In its center — an exit to the ridge on its summit. Control cairn. From it:

• 70 m along the ice couloir on the left side
• 30 m along the slabs
• 100 m along the ice crust under the wall of the II couloir to the inner corner
• Traverse left 25 m
• 4th wall of the couloir upwards to the left along the rocks of medium difficulty under the inner corner of the 4th gendarme, S/3 of the ridge
• 20 m along the corner, a slab is hanging above
• Ascent to the shoulder

81. Peak Profsoyuzov via Southwest Ridge (L. Yurasov's route, category 3A) The path from the Shkhielda alpine camp (group of 4–8 people) to the snowy plateau of the upper cirque of the left branch of the Akhsu glacier with the initial bivouac at "Aristov's Overnight Stay" is described in routes 72 and 80. Up the plateau to the left is the exit to the ice-snow saddle of the ridge between the peaks Bivuchny and Fizkulturnik — Bivuchny Pass. From the plateau:

• Overcoming the bergschrund,
• Up the steep ice-snow slope (avalanches!) — ascent to Bivuchny Pass. From "Aristov's Overnight Stay" — 6–7 hours. From the pass:
• Turn left,
• Exit under the rock wall of Bivuchny Peak,
• Along the edge of ice and rocks — 40–50-meter traverse under the wall to the left to the rocky-snowy Western Buttress of the peak.

3. Description

First ascent of the North wall of the 2nd Western peak of Sakashil-Bashi massif 4050 m. Approximately 5A category of difficulty. On August 30, two groups of climbers from Tyrnyauz went to the Sakashil-Bashi area to make ascents:

• Group led by Drobot S.Yu. consisting of 4 people — to the North wall of the 2nd Western Sakashil-Bashi
• Support group led by Furudya A.A. consisting of 6 people — to traverse the massif from East to West. Leaving Tyrnyauz at 8:00, the group reached the original bivouac site "3430 m" on the left-bank moraine of the upper plateau of the Sakashil-Su glacier by 18:00. Platforms were made on the moraine and a bivouac was set up (see approach description and photos № 1 and № 2). On August 31, Drobot S.Yu.'s group left the bivouac at 3:00. After crossing the ice plateau, they approached the start of the ascent, which begins with a snow-ice rise of initially 30–40° and quickly transitions into a steep ice-snow slope of 60–70°. Along this slope, after 3–4 ropes, they reached a bergschrund, which they crossed via a snow bridge, and continued further on crampons: 3 ropes to a steep rocky counterfort, bypassing it on the ice below the rocks. They emerged onto the counterfort and moved 1 rope (40 m) along the rocks. Then, they traversed the ice slope (60–65°) almost horizontally and reached a small rocky outcrop. From the rocky outcrop, they ascended a 20 m ice slope, which led them to a "diamond" formation, where they set up the 1st control cairn. The ascent from the start took 4 hours. Belays were hook belays throughout the section.

Suaryk Peak

Due to the isolated location of Suaryk peak and the long approaches from the north, climbers were unaware of the existence of the north face. Tenishev, who worked with geologists near the northern slopes of Suaryk, was the first to notice this face. In 1965, a snow-avalanche expedition of VGI worked in this area, which included climbers:

• Kakiani I.G.
• Zalikhanov M.Ch.
• Lezhenin A.I.
• Shatsky S.I. They recommended this ascent as an excellent wall, which could well be claimed for the USSR Climbing Championship.

Preliminary Preparation for the Ascent

Preparation for the ascent began in April 1967, after the event was approved by the Climbing Federation of the KBA SSR DSO "Spartak". A preliminary training plan was drawn up. It included general physical training sessions - 2 times a week, which included elements such as:

First ascent of the right part of the NE wall of peak Suaryk V. 3950 m (rock climbing category)

Report on the First Ascent

On the first ascent to peak Suaryk via the right part of the NE wall, approximately category 5B difficulty, accomplished by the team from Baksan Alpine Training and Sports Base (AUSB "Baksan") from August 3, 1990, to August 5, 1990. Coach: Drobot Stanislav Yuryevich Team Leader: Kruglovenko Alexander Vasilyevich Alpine Training and Sports Base "Baksan" 361603, KB ASSR, postal office Elbrus, AUSB "Baksan" Drobot Stanislav Yuryevich

Report

on the first ascent of Terskolak N.W. via the northern slope and western ridge, approximately category 2B

Ascent Details

1. Region of ascent, section number — 2. Caucasus according to the Classification Table 2013 — 2.4. from Chiperaza pass to Gumači peak
2. Name of the peak, its height — Terskolak N.W. (3790 m) name of the route
   • via N slope and W ridge
3. Proposed — category 2B first ascent
4. Nature of the route: — combined

Central Caucasus

ULLUKARA 4037 m via the northwest wall buttress. (Tentatively — 2B cat. difficulty.)

1. Temirov Anatoly Magometovich 1st class
2. Temirov Mukhamed Magometovich 1st class Bauman MSTU Sports Club.

Geographic Description of the Climbing Area

The ULLUKARA peak is located in the Main Caucasian Range, between the peaks of Bashkara to the east and Pik Volnaya Ispaniya to the west. This section of the Main Caucasian Range is in the Baksan Valley area. The Baksan Valley area is one of the most visited regions by climbers in the Caucasus. The alpine camps located in the area, good roads, and numerous beautiful peaks make this area attractive to climbers. Many climbing routes of varying difficulty have been laid out in this region. The most beautiful peaks of the Caucasus, such as Ushba, Shkhelda, Chatyn, Volnaya Ispaniya, and many others, are located in this part of the Central Caucasus. The Ullukara peak is situated in the upper Adylsu gorge. A good automobile road leads from Nalchik to the "Djan-Tugan" alpine camp. From the "Djan-Tugan" alpine camp to the Kashkatash glacier plateau, a good trail is laid out. Further, the path goes along the Kashkatash glacier to the ascent to its upper plateau. The ULLUKARA peak is a huge rocky massif covered with a powerful ice cap. It rises with black walls above the Kashkatash glacier. To the northeast from Ullukara, a short northern spur extends with the peaks of Pik Germogenova and Chegetkara. Between the peaks of Ullukara and Pik Germogenova lies a glacier. The weather in this region is usually good, with short, rare periods of bad weather. Fogs are common, coming from the south through the Kashkatash pass.