- Peak Profsoyuzov via Southwest Ridge (L. Yurasov's route, category 3A)
The path from the Shkhielda alpine camp (group of 4–8 people) to the snowy plateau of the upper cirque of the left branch of the Akhsu glacier with the initial bivouac at "Aristov's Overnight Stay" is described in routes 72 and 80. Up the plateau to the left is the exit to the ice-snow saddle of the ridge between the peaks Bivuchny and Fizkulturnik — Bivuchny Pass.
From the plateau:
- Overcoming the bergschrund,
- Up the steep ice-snow slope (avalanches!) — ascent to Bivuchny Pass.
From "Aristov's Overnight Stay" — 6–7 hours.
From the pass:
- Turn left,
- Exit under the rock wall of Bivuchny Peak,
- Along the edge of ice and rocks — 40–50-meter traverse under the wall to the left to the rocky-snowy Western Buttress of the peak.
Further:
- Traverse 5–8 m (pitons insurance!) under the overhanging rock — transition to the left side of the buttress.
From here:
- Up the steep snow-covered with ice sections, rocks of medium difficulty on the left side of the buttress (pitons insurance!) — 80–100-meter ascent to Bivuchny Peak.
From the pass — 1.5–2 hours.
From Bivuchny:
- Down the simple rocky-snow ridge — descent to the saddle under the smoothed rock rise of Peak Profsoyuzov.
From under the rocks of the rise
traverse along simple and medium difficulty rocks on the right (southern) side of the Southwest Ridge of Peak Profsoyuzov ("live" stones, insurance!). Having passed two ice-snow couloirs, exit to the third, narrow one. Up the couloir — 160–180 m ascent (pitons insurance!) to Peak Profsoyuzov. On it or on the saddle of the Eastern Ridge — bivouac. From Bivuchny Peak — 2.5–3 hours. Descent along the Eastern Ridge is described in routes 73 and 75. Duration of the route — 3 days.
Special equipment for 4 people:
- main rope — 2 × 30 m
- auxiliary cord — 2 m
- rock pitons — 3–4
- ice pitons — 3–4
- rock hammers — 2
- carabiners — 8
- crampons — 4 pairs
- tent — 1
Places for possible bivouacs — on the glacier, pass, and peaks. "Baksan Valley". A.F. Naumov