ASCENT TO V. KYUNDU̇M-MIZHIRGI VIA THE 3RD RIDGE, CAT. 3B DIFFICULTY Route Description From the "3900" campsite, head towards the Kyundu̇m-Mizhirgi pass. Traverse the icefall at the base of the upper plateau to the left, keeping close to the rocks of the V. Ullu-Auz ridge. Upon reaching the upper plateau, turn right under the snow-ice slope that leads to the shoulder of the 3rd ridge of V. Kyundu̇m-Mizhirgi. Overcome the bergschrund and ascend 200 m up the slope to the ridge shoulder. Pure ice is possible! Crampons, pitons! From the shoulder, traverse the rocky ridge to the right via simple rocks and ascend upwards to the base of the counterfort wall. From here, ascend upwards to the left via a 8–10 m cleft (70–80°) to the base of a couloir with ice and snow. Ascend 50–60 m (45°) up the left side of the couloir to a rocky ridge connector. Traverse 40 m to the left along the ridge via несложным скалам and then descend 3 m into a pass. From the pass, ascend 50 m (35–40°) up a slab (pitons!) to a ledge, then ascend 10 m to the left, from where you can traverse to the right side of the ridge. Move along the right side of the ridge via ledges (80–100 m) to an ice-snow couloir, which leads to a ridge connector (100–120 m) below the summit ascent. Continue by ascending 20 m up a slab, 20–25 m to the left via a cleft, and then upwards to the right to the pre-summit ridge (pitons!). The further route to the summit follows the ridge (200 m). The ascent to the summit from the "3900" campsite takes around 7 hours in good weather.

Ascent Report on Kursaanty 3-V (3838 m) Traverse, along the 3rd Ridge, E. Chasova, 1982, Category 2B

The route was completed by the former team from St. Petersburg (now Voronezh) 2022

Ascent Passport

1. Western Caucasus, 2.5. From Kittlod Pass to Gezivcek Pass (from the north of the Main Caucasian Range)
2. Kursaanty 3-V peak (3838 m), traverse, along the 3rd ridge, E. Chasova, 1982
3. Route type — combined.
4. Height difference ~ 150 m. Route length ~ 600 m. Length of sections with V-VI category difficulty: ~ 40 m.

141. Lyalver — Tetnuld (the route is combined, by I. Shintlmeister, category 4B difficulty level, fig. 20, 22). From the village of Zhabishi, ascend via the trail on the left bank of the Tsanner River and, bypassing the first step of the icefall, descend onto the glacier. Along the left side of the glacier, approach the second step, which is traversed on its left side. The third step is also passed on the left via the snowy-icy slopes of the spur, and beyond it, exit onto the upper plateau of the Tsanner Glacier. On the moraine, in the center of the upper plateau, closer to the slopes of Tikhtengen on the Tsanner площадках (Tsanner sites), set up the initial bivouac. From the village of Zhabishi, it takes 10–14 hours. From the bivouac site, turn right

Passport

1. Ice-snow class.
2. Caucasus, Mizhirgi gorge.
3. East Mizhirgi via the left part of the North wall (4918 m).
4. Assumed 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain: 1800 m, length 2630 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 1110 m. Average steepness of main sections — 57°/1830 m. Length of wall section — 2230 m.
6. Pitons hammered: rock 17, drilled 0, chocks 11, ice screws 157, snow stakes 20.
7. Team's climbing hours: days – 3 climbing hours – 30.5

USSR ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP 1982. ICE-SNOW ASCENTS CLASS.

Report

REPORT ON THE ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF MIZHIRGI EAST, 4928 m, VIA THE CENTER OF THE NORTH FACE BY THE RS "AVANGARD" TEAM, TRUD SPORTS SOCIETY. Team Leader: V.I. Grishchenko. Team Coach: L.V. Kensitsky. RS "AVANGARD", TRUD Sports Society, Kiev, ul. Volodarskogo, 1. Tel. 74-40-22. Team Leader V.I. Grishchenko: 25205, Kiev, ul. Peschanaya, 28/32, apt. 46. Work Tel. 44-10-65, Home Tel. 71-08-74. Coach L.V. Kensitsky: Uzhgorod, ul. Shumnaya, 22/23. Tel. 90-51, ext. 3-53. The heights of the summit and the start of the route were determined using a map; the heights of the bivouac sites were determined visually and by the number of ropes climbed.

Profile of the wall from the left

Photo taken on August 16, 1981, at 11:00, using Industar-70 lens, distance to object 4.5 km, N 4, H 4500.

Ascent Passport

I. Ice and Snow Ascent Category 2. Central Caucasus, Bezengi 3. Eastern Mizhirgi via the Center of the North Face (V. Grishchenko route) 4. Estimated 5B category of difficulty, 2nd ascent 5. Elevation gain — 1700 m, route length 2090 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 1680 m. Average steepness — 55°. 6. Pitons driven: rock: 2; bolt: —; chocks: —; ice screws: 218. 7. Time to the summit — 23 hours and 2 days.

ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF VOSTOCHNAYA MIZHIRGI VIA THE SOUTH FACE (FIRST ASCENT)

The ascent was made by the group of the Moscow City Council of the DSO "TRUD" consisting of:

1. FINOGENOV M.A. — Master of Sports (leader)
2. Puchkov L.N. — 1st sports category (participant)
3. Tkachenko A.N. — 1st sports category (participant) The group was on the route from July 8 to July 14, 1963. Base — "Bezengi" alpine camp. The route (traverse of Vostochная and Zapadная Mizhirgi peaks) with ascent to Vostochная Mizhirgi via the South face was planned as a training traverse of both Mizhirgi peaks before the ascent claimed for the USSR championship, and was carried out in conjunction with the group of the DSO "TRUD" from Leningrad led by SOLONNIKOV V.A.

ROUTE TAKEN BY THE GROUP VIA THE SOUTH FACE OF VOSTOCHNAYA MIZHIRGI

The South face of Mizhirgi has attracted the attention of our sports group over the past few years. This massif, never climbed before, is of great interest. During a training ascent to the summit of Krumkol from the south, we thoroughly examined the face of Mizhirgi peak and outlined several options for the first ascent. Photographs and sketches were made.

Ascent Description

TO THE SUMMIT OF V. MIZHIRGI VIA THE N. RIDGE. Completed by the MGS DSO "Trud" gathering group. July 27 – August 1, 1962. The Mizhirgi peak (5027 m) is located in the Bezengi region of the Central Caucasus, at the center of one of the most complex ridges — Koshtan-Tau — Dykh-Tau. The north ridge ascending to the eastern summit of Mizhirgi from the Cheget-Mizhirgi glacier was first climbed by a Pelevin group in 1952. The ridge drops off towards Krumkol with a vertical rock wall, and towards Dykh-Tau with steep and avalanche-prone slopes. In the lower third, its steepness is around 70°, the remaining part is an icy ridge (40–60°) with several steps in the form of rock cliffs. The key sections of the route are the ridge exit and the pre-summit wall. The route is classified as 5B category difficulty. The MGS DSO "Trud" gathering group completed this ascent from July 28 to 31, 1962, with the following team members: Cheremisov V. 1st sports category — leader Tkachenko A. 1st sports category — participant Petiforov V. 1st sports category — participant Daruga V. 2nd sports category — participant

Ascent Description

Technical Data

1. Climbing Area Central Caucasus, Bezengi gorge
2. Peak
   • East Mizhirgi 4950 m
   • West Mizhirgi 5050 m
3. Route
   • Ascent to the North Edge via the wall of the lower rocky bastion (first ascent)
   • Along the North Edge to East Mizhirgi via Pelevin's route
   • Ascent to West Mizhirgi

68. Traverse of the Eastern and Western Mizhirgi peaks with ascent to the Eastern Mizhirgi via the North-Eastern counterfort - 5B cat. diff. (A. Timofeev, V. Zhirnov, V. Ivanov, L. Kadykov, A. Pepin, and G. Chunovkin - July 29 - August 4, 1960; Fig. 23, 24). The route from the Bezengi alpine camp to the medial moraine of the Mizhirgi glacier above the first stage of the icefall is described in route 18. The moraine is used as a bivouac. From the bivouac (with crampons!) traverse the glacier to the foot of the North-Eastern counterfort of the Eastern Mizhirgi peak and ascend a 250 m ice-and-snow slope to the left side of the counterfort. Ascend 80 m up and to the right along moderately difficult snow-covered slabs, then ascend a small snow slope to the foot of the counterfort wall. Ascend 80 m up and to the right along the wall ("live" rocks!) with piton belay, then 70 m straight up the counterfort (artificial aids!) to a ledge (control cairn on the ledge). From the ledge, ascend 60 m up a snow slope on the right side of the counterfort, then 25 m up and left along a chimney to the counterfort. From here, ascend 25 m along a rocky, then 20-25 m along a snowy counterfort to the foot of the first gendarme wall. Ascend 35 m straight up the wall to a ledge, then traverse 15-20 m along an internal corner. From the corner, traverse 20-25 m along the wall to the right to a ledge below a crevice, then ascend 20 m up the crevice to a smooth wall. Ascend 30 m up and to the right along the wall to an external corner, then 30 m up the corner, followed by a traverse to the right with a descent behind the gendarme to a snowy col on the ridge (piton belay!). Ascend along the snowy ridge to the foot of the second gendarme. From here, ascend a snowy slope on the right side of the ridge, then descend to the right without reaching the gendarme, to a wide snowy ridge-slope. The ridge-slope is used as a bivouac. The total time from the initial bivouac is 12-14 hours.