- Traverse of the Eastern and Western Mizhirgi peaks with ascent to the Eastern Mizhirgi via the North-Eastern counterfort - 5B cat. diff. (A. Timofeev, V. Zhirnov, V. Ivanov, L. Kadykov, A. Pepin, and G. Chunovkin - July 29 - August 4, 1960; Fig. 23, 24). The route from the Bezengi alpine camp to the medial moraine of the Mizhirgi glacier above the first stage of the icefall is described in route 18. The moraine is used as a bivouac. From the bivouac (with crampons!) traverse the glacier to the foot of the North-Eastern counterfort of the Eastern Mizhirgi peak and ascend a 250 m ice-and-snow slope to the left side of the counterfort. Ascend 80 m up and to the right along moderately difficult snow-covered slabs, then ascend a small snow slope to the foot of the counterfort wall. Ascend 80 m up and to the right along the wall ("live" rocks!) with piton belay, then 70 m straight up the counterfort (artificial aids!) to a ledge (control cairn on the ledge). From the ledge, ascend 60 m up a snow slope on the right side of the counterfort, then 25 m up and left along a chimney to the counterfort. From here, ascend 25 m along a rocky, then 20-25 m along a snowy counterfort to the foot of the first gendarme wall. Ascend 35 m straight up the wall to a ledge, then traverse 15-20 m along an internal corner. From the corner, traverse 20-25 m along the wall to the right to a ledge below a crevice, then ascend 20 m up the crevice to a smooth wall. Ascend 30 m up and to the right along the wall to an external corner, then 30 m up the corner, followed by a traverse to the right with a descent behind the gendarme to a snowy col on the ridge (piton belay!). Ascend along the snowy ridge to the foot of the second gendarme. From here, ascend a snowy slope on the right side of the ridge, then descend to the right without reaching the gendarme, to a wide snowy ridge-slope. The ridge-slope is used as a bivouac. The total time from the initial bivouac is 12-14 hours. From the bivouac, ascend 120-150 m up moderately difficult rocky counterfort to a ledge, then ascend platy rocks ("live" rocks!) alternating with small walls, corners, and crevices to a 25-30 m wall. Ascend a crevice in the center of the wall up and to the right, then after passing a нависающий камень to the right (artificial aids!), ascend up and to the left to the wall. The ascent to the wall is also possible along the slabs to the right (piton belay!). Continue 60 m up moderately difficult rocks with a 10 m internal corner and a 20 m wall, then ascend 30 m along a snowy ridge to the foot of a small rocky wall. The ridge is used as a bivouac. The total time from the first bivouac is 10-12 hours. From the ridge, ascend through a small wall along a sharp 30-35 m ridge and a 20 m talus slope, then 100 m up a steep firn slope on the right side of the counterfort to the counterfort. Continue 200 m up an ice-and-snow ridge-slope; bypass a large rock to the left and reach the foot of a rocky outcrop. Ascend a 20 m rocky-ice couloir to a slab of the outcrop. Ascend 30-35 m up and to the left along the slab (piton belay!) to the ridge, then reach a площадка. From the площадка, ascend a snow slope to the foot of the rocky walls of the North Ridge. The first variant of the ascent to the Eastern plateau of the peak. At the foot of the wall, ascend a 45-50 m snowy couloir with a нависающий снежный карниз, then ascend rocks on its left side to a snowy slope of the North Ridge and reach the Eastern snowy plateau of the Eastern Mizhirgi. The second variant of the ascent. At the foot of the wall, ascend rocks and snow to the Eastern ridge of the peak. Ascend 70 m up and to the right along slabs, moderately difficult rocks, a 10 m chimney, and 150-180 m along a snowy ridge and slope to the Eastern plateau of the peak. Ascend along the plateau and simple 100-120 m rocky ridge to the summit of the Eastern Mizhirgi. Descend from the summit along a разрушенный simple rocky ridge, then along a wide snowy ridge (карнизы!) to the foot of the rocky tower of the Western Mizhirgi. The plateau below the tower is used as a bivouac. The total time from the bivouac on the counterfort is 10-12 hours. From the ridge, traverse 60 m along a ledge on the left side of the rocky tower of the Western Mizhirgi peak to the South Ridge below an ice-and-snow couloir leading to the summit. Ascend 40-50 m up the couloir (icicles falling!). From below a нависающий covered with натечным льдом rocky карниз, ascend 50-60 m up and to the right along moderately difficult rocks, then traverse to the left through the couloir and 70-80 m up moderately difficult rocks on the left side of the couloir to the summit of the Western Mizhirgi (piton belay!). The descent along the South Ridge is described in route 63.
Recommendations for climbers
- Number of participants - 4-5 people.
- Initial bivouac - moraine above the first icefall of the Mizhirgi glacier.
- Departure time - 12:00-1:00 am.
- Equipment: main rope - 2 x 40 m; expendable cordelette - 20 m; cordelette for descent - 40 m; rock pitons - 20-25; ice pitons - 5-6; rock hammer - 2; three-step ladders - 2; carabiners - 12-14; crampons - 4 pairs; tent - 1.
- Bivouac locations - on a ledge at the first control cairn, on a ledge of the wall below the first gendarme, on a snowy ridge behind the first gendarme, on a wide snowy ridge behind the second gendarme, on a 30 m snowy ridge, on a 200 m snowy ridge-slope, on a площадка behind it, on a ridge below the wall of the North Ridge, on a snowy plateau and ridge of the Mizhirgi massif, on the summit of the Western Mizhirgi, and on the South Ridge of the descent route.
