Climbing Passport

I. Climbing type — ice and snow 2. Climbing area — Central Tien Shan, Ak-Tau ridge 3. Peak named after M. Auezov via the right part of the Eastern wall (5967 m) 4. Estimated category of difficulty — 5B (first ascent) 5. Height difference — 1447 m for the route, 1250 m for the wall section. Length — 1940 m for the route, 1440 m for the wall section. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 1175 m. Of these, 25 m are category 6. Average steepness of the wall — 56° 6. Pitons hammered: * rock — 4/2 * bolt — (dash) * chocks — 13/5

Passport

1. Ice and snow ascents class
2. Central Tien Shan, South Inylchek Glacier
3. Peak Auezov, 5967 m, via the center of the North-East face
4. Proposed - 6A category of complexity, first ascent
5. Wall height difference: 1200 m, route - 1367 m; wall length - 1370 m; route length - 1640 m. Length of sections with 5-6 category of complexity - 790 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 58° (4600-5800), including 6 category of complexity sections: 80° (4750-4800); 70° (4848-4860); 70° (4888-4901); 80° (4920-4931); 70° (5364-5680); 70° (5680-5742); 70° (5758-5800)
6. Use of previously driven pitons - no
7. Team's working hours: 22.5 (20 hours on the wall) and days - 2
8. Overnight stays: 1st in a natural ice-snow cave - 6 people.
9. Team leader: Viktor Vasilyevich Zhuravlev, Master of Sports of the USSR

I. Category of ascent: HIGH-ALTITUDE TECHNICAL 2. Area of ascent: KOK-SHAAL-TAU RANGE, DJUREK TRACT 3. Route of ascent with indication of peaks and their heights: NORTH-WEST WALL, TENDING TO THE NORTH (azimuth 340°) p. DANKOV, 5982 m 4. Characteristics of ascent: HEIGHT DIFFERENCE 2000 m AVERAGE STEEPNESS 70° — 540 m, LENGTH OF DIFFICULT SECTIONS 54 5. Number of pitons hammered: ROCK — 190 pcs., ICE — 35 pcs., BOLTED — 9 pcs. 6. Number of travel hours: 91 Number of hours spent on preliminary processing: 29.5 hours

Passport

1. Class — high-altitude technical
2. Tian Shan, western Kokshaal-Too
3. Peak Dankova via NNE ridge (5982 m)
4. Category 5B difficulty, first ascent
5. Elevation gain — 1650 m Distance — 2200 m. Category 5B difficulty sections — 580 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 62°
6. Pitons used: rock 14/2, nuts 8, ice screws 74
7. Climbing hours — 22 and days — 3

Peak Kabalchicha (5450 m)

(approx. 4A cat. dif.) CC.3. From the "Researchers" glacier turn left onto the "Koroleva" glacier, which is quite steep (30–35°), with a lot of clean ice, sticking to the right side as you move, we come out onto an ice plateau, climbing in crampons. Insurance on individual sections is hook-type, screw-in ice hooks tested during training sessions were used. From the glacier, climb to the left along destroyed and icy rocks, along sheer walls, to a snowy-ice couloir, insurance using ledges. This section was covered in 5 hours in bad weather. The couloir is 30–40° steep, местами purely icy, insurance is hook-type, walk in crampons, the ascent takes 4 hours. In the upper part, the couloir ends with a wall (5–6 m) heavily destroyed, steep and covered with snow, the first one passes by climbing, using footholds, 2 rock hooks are hammered in, the rest with top rope insurance on a hung rope. The ascent took 1.5 hours. Exit left onto a snowy slope with a steepness of 25–30° (insurance on 2 ropes through an ice axe, then simultaneous movement), 400 m to the pre-summit ridge. The ascent to the summit along the snowy ridge is quite simple (there are cornices on the right). Descent along the ascent route. By the end of the day, there was even more ice in the couloir, the descent took 4 hours; 8 rock and 15 ice (screw-in) hooks were hammered in.

Recommendations for climbers

Given the harsh climate of the region, it is possible to depart from the last green bivouac at 11:00, there will be enough time until 19:00 to cover the distance to the snowy-ice couloir, where under an overhanging rock in a snowy hollow you can organize an excellent bivouac, two tents can be set up. Cross the couloir only early in the morning, as in the afternoon it is dangerous due to:

• rocks,
• icefalls,

Passport

1. Technical category
2. Tian-Shan, western Kokshaal-Tau, Aitola gorge
3. Peak Korsun (5600 m) from the northwest
4. Proposed 5A category, first ascent
5. Elevation gain 900 m. Length 1800 m. Length of 5th category sections — 500 m. Average steepness:

• main part of the route — 45°
• entire route — 40°

I. High-altitude category

2. Central Tien Shan, Kokshaal-Tau ridge
3. Peak Neru via the left part of the northeast face
4. Proposed 6th category of difficulty, first ascent
5. Elevation gain – 2430 m, route length – 2960 m Average steepness of the main part of the route – 55° (4300–6744), including 360 m of 6th category of difficulty
6. Pitons hammered: rock 65, bolts – 0, protection 27,

MOSCOW ALPINISM AND ROCK CLIMBING FEDERATION

Report

On the ascent of the CSKA Demchenko team

To the summit of Pogranichnik 5270 m.

Central Tian Shan, Western Kokshaal-Too (40°59′59.36″ N 77°31′43.49″ E) via the northern snowy couloir of the western ridge. First ascent presumably 4A category of difficulty. Grigoryev D.R. — Zaryaev V.V.

Participants of the ascent

Passport

I. Class — technical 2. Tian Shan, Western Kokshaal-Too 3. Pik Podmoskovny via North Ridge 4. Proposed 5B category, first ascent 5. Elevation gain 1133 m. Distance 1250 m. Distance of sections with 5–6 category difficulty 730 m, including 120 m of 6 category. Average steepness of the main part of the route 65°. 6. Pitons driven: rock — 32/3, bolted — 0/0, chocks — 51/8, ice screws — 12/0 7. Team's travel time: 24 hours and 3 days.

Ascent Log

1. Climbing grade — technically challenging.
2. Ascent area — Main Caucasian Ridge and its spurs from Chipperaza Pass to Ortokara peak.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Mt. Latsga (3999 m) eastern wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 620 m average steepness — 52° length of sections — 5th cat. diff. — 197 m
6. Pitons hammered: for belay and for creating R.P.E. rock pitons 56