Approaches to the route.

The 4470 m peak closes the main spur of the Guamysh ridge, which branches off in the northern direction and separates the Nizhny Guamysh glacier from the glacier in I. Enumeration:

• Main spur of the Guamysh ridge
• Direction — northern
• Separation of the Nizhny Guamysh glacier from the glacier in I From the base camp, located below the Guamysh pass, move along the trail to the right along the Guamysh river, approaching the entrance of the Nizhny Guamysh glacier. From here, the North spur of the peak is visible, the path to which goes along the lateral moraine and further along the main slope. The journey from the base camp to the start of the route takes 3–3.5 hours.

Brief explanation for the route table.

The ascent along the snow-ice slope (section I–II, II–III, III–IV) bypassing the rock wall, which ends the North edge of the peak, passes in close proximity to 64 eq. and leads to the ridge. Above the ridge, a powerful rock wall overhangs. Here is the first control point. The wall is bypassed on the left along an inclined shelf with piton belay and further the rock wall leads to the right onto the edge with gendarmes, turning into a destroyed edge, which ends with a sheer wall. The wall is bypassed on the left along the snow and then along the inclined rock shelf, resting against the rock wall (section I–II). Further along the inclined stepped shelf with small walls, we exit onto the edge between two gendarmes. The first gendarme is climbed "head-on", the second is bypassed on the left. From the gendarme along the main edge — the exit to the summit.

The peak Otkrytiya Olimpiady-80 (4680 m) is located in a lateral spur of the Guamysh ridge (Pamir-Alay). The ridge of the peak is oriented from north to south. The northern ridge of the peak connects to the peak 4540 m, the southern one - to the peak 4851 m.

• From the east, the peak is a wide rock massif with steep walls.
• To the west, a snowy slope descends from the peak, ending in walls. The peak is composed of red granites with individual shale inclusions, relatively little destroyed. According to a preliminary assessment, routes from 2B to 5A category of difficulty can be laid to the peak.
• along the northern ridge - 2B category of difficulty;
• along the southern ridge - 3A ≥ 3B category of difficulty.
• along the western counterfort - 4A–4B category of difficulty.
• along the eastern wall - 5A category of difficulty.

R. G. Veryasov, 62

Location and Approaches (4120)

Peak Andizhan is located in the crest of the Peredovoy Ridge between the Ak-Buura and Kyrgyz-Ata rivers on the northern slopes of the Kikik-Alay Ridge. Its southern slopes descend to the Kaldyrama River (the eastern tributary of the Kyrgyz-Ata River). A vehicle usually drives from Osh through Naukhat and past the forestry department to the foot of Mount Mazar (see description of Peak 40th Anniversary of the Soviet Army). Mount Mazar and Peak Andizhan stand opposite each other. In other words, the ascent to Peak Andizhan can be made from the vehicle stopping point.

Ascent Route

From the base camp, we start ascending along a grassy slope. The slope is partially covered with juniper forest. We ascend 300-350 m along the grassy slope on the right side of a couloir. This couloir reaches the pre-summit ridge and is visible from the base camp. It is difficult and dangerous to walk along the couloir itself due to the fine scree and potential rockfall. Then, along the ridge, we ascend another 350-400 m on very fragmented rocks and scree to the beginning of the couloir. We ascend along the couloir on coarse scree to a saddle. The ascent path is 90-100 m, with a steepness of 30-35°. The summit is visible from the saddle. On the way to the summit, there are some rocky outcrops, but they can be bypassed on the left. We approach the summit. The exit to the summit itself is along a monolithic rock, where belaying is necessary. The ascent to the summit on the rock is 6-7 m. Steepness is 35-40°. The entire path from the camp to the summit takes 4.5-5 hours. The descent is along the ascent path to the saddle, and then down the couloir on scree.

65. Karagoy via the South Ridge The route is rocky, category 1B difficulty (fig. 5, 61, 62, 73). Length — 700 m, elevation gain — 300 m, time — 3.5–4 hours. The approach from the Kyrgyz-Ata alpine camp (group size is not limited) to the initial bivouac in the Djeljilga gorge, at the entrance to the lateral Ruchyeva cirque — see route 14. From the initial bivouac:

• Turn right and ascend via the right-bank moraine into the Ruchyeva cirque.
• Continue ascending via the right-bank moraine and, after passing the slopes of the LVO peak, approach the saddle of the Karagoy Pass.
• From the cirque — 250–300 m ascent to the right of the Eastern counterfort of the Northern ridge of the Big Ruchyeva peak with a triangular base, along a 30–35° slope composed of small and medium talus, transitioning into multiple couloirs in the central and upper parts.
• Ascend via the middle couloir to the Karagoy Pass. From the initial bivouac — 2–2.5 hours. The approach to the Karagoy Pass from the Suichikty gorge:
• From the alpine camp, ascend via the left-bank road of the Suichikty river to the kurgan, then to the ruined stone house of geologists.

5.15. 16 23

Ascent Log

Ascent type: rock Ascent area: Pamir-Alay range, Kichik-Alay ridge Peak: Karagoy Height: 4234 m Ascent route: from Suychikty valley via NE ridge Suggested difficulty category: 2A

Route Characteristics

70. Kyzkochkan via the East Face

The route is rocky, category 5A difficulty (fig. 5, 61, 62, 73, 77–79). Length — 1000 m, elevation gain — 750 m, with 70°, VI — 20 m, duration — 14–16 hours. The approach path from the "Kirgizata" alpine camp (group of 2-6 people) to the initial bivouac in the Joldjilga gorge under the East Face of Kyzkochkan peak — see route 14.

• From the initial bivouac, approach the talus cone-outlet of the couloir on the left side of the East Face.
• Ascend 120–150 m up the talus on the right side of the cone-outlet, then possibly up a narrow snowy couloir descending between the southeast slopes of Kyzkochkan peak and the ridge-island, rising along the wall under the South Ridge of the peak, to a small ledge under the chimney on the left side of the huge internal angle formed by the light left edge of the East Face and the Southeast Face.
• From the ledge, ascend 40 m up and to the right via a moderately difficult route.
• Ascend a 55–60 m chimney to a ledge.
• From it, ascend a 25 m moderately difficult 60–70° chimney to reach the talus ledges in the center of the huge internal angle.
• From the angle, ascend traversing up and to the right along the ledges for 20–25 m, then up a 50 m moderately difficult 30 m slab and a difficult wall, left of the overhanging sections, to reach the Lower Shoulder of the Right Rib of the huge internal angle.
• From the shoulder, ascend 30–40 m up a difficult vertical wall, bypassing the overhanging rock "gendarmes" on the left, with an exit onto a short 6–10 m narrow rocky ridge of the Right Rib.
• From the ridge, ascend 70–80 m up, left of the cleft, via a difficult wall with very difficult short sections on the left side of the Right Rib.

PASSPORT

1. Rock.
2. Pamir-Alay, Kirgiz-Ata gorge, 4180.
3. Peak XX Congress of Komsomol via the counterfort of the South slope, 4200.
4. Presumed Category 2B difficulty, first ascent.
5. Height difference – 150 m, length – 280 m.
6. Route steepness – 50°. Pitons driven: Rock: 10

64. LVO via the East Ridge

54. Osh Glavnaya from the Southeast via the couloir of the South Ridge The route is rocky, category 1B difficulty (fig. 5, 49, 57, 58). Length — 1200 m, elevation gain — 550 m, time — 3–3.5 hours. The approach path from the "Kirgizata" alpine camp (group of 4-20 people) to the initial bivouac on the light moraine of the upper circus of the Kurgan gorge — see route 10. From the initial bivouac, approach the second wide scree slope-couloir descending from the junction of the South Ridge with the Eastern buttress via the moraine. Up the scree slope turning into a couloir for 300-400 m. Then 150-200 m up-left along easy destroyed rocks (protection) through a small buttress with an exit to the upper scree slope of the South Ridge. Along the scree of the eastern slope, to the right of a solitary standing rocky sharp gendarme on the South Ridge, a 300-400 m ascent to the South Ridge. On the ridge, turn right and ascend 100-120 m to the shoulder of the South Ridge along scree and easy rocks. Further along easy, gentle, местами заснеженным, сильно разрушенным скалам and scree of the 250-300-meter South Ridge to ascend to the summit of Osh Glavnaya. From the initial bivouac — 3–3.5 hours.

52. Osh Main via East Buttress of South Ridge The route is rocky, category 2B (fig. 5, 49, 57, 58). Length — 1400 m, height difference — 600 m, time — 3.5–4 hours. The path from the "Kirgizata" alpine camp (group of 2–10 people) to the initial bivouac on the white moraine of the upper circus of the Kurgan gorge — see route 10. From the initial bivouac:

• Approach the base of the East Buttress from the moraine.
• From the moraine, ascend 180–200 m up slanting shelves alternating with moderately difficult rock sections ("live" stones, piton protection) on the left side with a 40–45° slope of the East Buttress to reach a saddle. Control cairn.
• From the saddle, ascend 80–100 m up simple, gentle rocks of the East Buttress.
• Then ascend 30–40 m along a smoothed steep (55–60°) ascent (piton protection) on the left side of the buttress.
• Further, ascend 280–300 m up simple, with short sections of moderate difficulty, heavily destroyed rocks with a 35–40° slope of the East Buttress — to reach a shoulder.