- Osh Main via East Buttress of South Ridge The route is rocky, category 2B (fig. 5, 49, 57, 58). Length — 1400 m, height difference — 600 m, time — 3.5–4 hours.
The path from the "Kirgizata" alpine camp (group of 2–10 people) to the initial bivouac on the white moraine of the upper circus of the Kurgan gorge — see route 10.
From the initial bivouac:
- Approach the base of the East Buttress from the moraine.
- From the moraine, ascend 180–200 m up slanting shelves alternating with moderately difficult rock sections ("live" stones, piton protection) on the left side with a 40–45° slope of the East Buttress to reach a saddle. Control cairn.
- From the saddle, ascend 80–100 m up simple, gentle rocks of the East Buttress.
- Then ascend 30–40 m along a smoothed steep (55–60°) ascent (piton protection) on the left side of the buttress.
- Further, ascend 280–300 m up simple, with short sections of moderate difficulty, heavily destroyed rocks with a 35–40° slope of the East Buttress — to reach a shoulder.
- From the shoulder, ascend 100–120 m up simple destroyed rocks of the East Buttress, bypassing a steep (60–65°) ascent on moderately difficult monolithic rocks (piton protection) to the left, to reach the saddle of the East Buttress.
From the initial bivouac — 3–3.5 hours.
From the saddle of the East Buttress:
- Traverse simple and easy, heavily destroyed, gentle rocks, and in the upper part — scree of the 400–500-meter East Buttress or its right side to reach a scree shoulder of the South Ridge.
- On the shoulder, turn right and ascend easy, gentle, местами заснеженным, heavily destroyed rocks and scree (250–300 m) of the South Ridge to reach the summit of Osh Main.
From the saddle of the East Buttress — 2–3 hours.
