Report

on the ascent made by the team of a/c "Odessa" to the summit of Parandas via the right part of the North face — first ascent.

Ascent Passport

1. Pamir-Alay. Zeravshan range. Fan Mountains. March 5, 1988
2. Mt. Parandas 4250 m
3. First ascent via the right part of N face 6A
4. Route type: rock
5. Height difference of the route: 850 m Route length: 1370 m. Section lengths:

Ascent Passport

1. Class of high-altitude technical ascents
2. Fann Mountains
3. Chapdara, 5000 m via North Ridge
4. 5A category of difficulty
5. Height difference — 1281 m, length — 1985 m. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 585 m. Average steepness of main sections — 55°, of the route — 42°
6. Pitons driven: rock — 35, chocks — 42, ice screws — 17

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — high-altitude technical
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alai, Zeravshan Range
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Chapdara, 5297 m, via the Northeast wall.
4. Expected difficulty category — 6B cat. diff., classified
5. Route characteristics — wall, total route length (sections R0–R24) — 2200 m, length of sections I–VI cat. diff. — 920 m, wall height difference — 900 m, average steepness — 85–87°
6. Pitons driven: for belaying, for creating ITDs: rock — 208 pcs., ice — 6 pcs., bolt — 12 pcs., chocks — 3 pcs.
7. Number of climbing hours — 42 hours
8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics — three bivouacs: first — lying in a niche, all together; second — on a narrow ledge, three + one; third — on the ridge, platform, all together.

Ascent Report

1. Climbing category — high-altitude technical.
2. Climbing region — Fan Mountains, Pamir-Alay.
3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their heights via NNE wall of CHAPDARA 5297 m first ascent.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 6B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1947 m length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 960 m (including 700 m of 6B category) average steepness of the wall section — 87°.
6. Pitons hammered and chocks used for protection, for creating artificial support points:

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class: technical 2. Ascent area, range: Fan Mountains 3. Peak, its height, ascent route: P. Chaplygina, 4500 m, via the southwest ridge 4. Proposed difficulty category: 2B 5. Route characteristics: height difference 350-400 m, average slope 45°, length of 5th category sections 6. Number of pitons: for belaying and creating anchor points, rock/IО ice — bolted 7. Number of climbing hours: 3.5 hours 8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics 9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants, and their qualifications: MUMDZhI T.M., CMS — leader; Nerdnikov V.M., 1st sports category; Trusenkov V.V., 1st sports category

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Climbing area, ridge — Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route —
   • Dukdon Glavny, 5080 m, right part of the northern wall, first ascent.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 1330 m,
   • length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 704 m,
   • average steepness — 72°.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent type — high-altitude and technical.
2. Ascent area — Matcha mountain node.
3. Ascent route — Center of the eastern wall of Peak LGI (5600 m).
4. Expected difficulty category — VI.
5. Ascent characteristics:
   • height difference — 1550 m.
   • average slope — 70°.
   • average slope of the complex section (VI) — 80°.
   • length of the complex section (VI) — 480 m.

Passport

1. Climbing category: technical
2. Climbing area: Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Ak-Suu valley.
3. Peak, route: peak Admiralteets 5090 m via "Bashkirov's Pillar" route, 6A category.
4. Elevation gain:
   • "Pillar" elevation gain – 740 m
   • Main part of the "Pillar" elevation gain – 560 m
   • Total route length – 2860 m
   • "Pillar" length – 920 m
   • Main part of the "Pillar" length – 675 m

PASSPORT

1. Technical category
2. Ak-su gorge
3. Peak Admiralteets, via the pillar, Bashkirov route, 6A, 2nd ascent.
4. Elevation gain 850 m, length 1230 m, section lengths: 6th cat. diff. — 510 m, 5th cat. diff. — 340 m. Average steepness of the route 88°
5. Pitons driven: rock — 226/4 bolt — 14/207, 27?

1. Technical category
2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Aksu valley
3. Aksu peak (C)
4. Category of difficulty — 6A, proposed 6B
5. Elevation gain — 1460 m, length — 2200 m, including 1430 m on the bastion.
6. Average steepness of the bastion — 76°
   Average steepness of the route — 68°
7. Pitons driven:

   rock	nuts	bolt	reused bolt	skyhook holes	ice