ASCENT REPORT

I. Climbing type: rock climbing 2. Climbing area: Caucasus, Tsey Gorge 3. Proposed difficulty category: 2A 4. Peak 3960 (p. 10. Vizbor) via NW ridge 5. Elevation gain: 960 m Average slope: 30° 6. Pitons driven: 2 7. Total climbing hours: 9 hours 8. Number of nights spent: none

Route Description

From the sites under the buttress, along the talus shelves in the direction of the buttress with a large sharp ledge (150 m). The ascent to the buttress begins along a wide internal angle ("live" stones - belay) through rocks of medium difficulty. Further on, along simple rocks, bypassing the large sharp ledge of the buttress on the right side. Here is the control cairn. From the control cairn, traverse to the right with an exit to a small site under a 40 m slab-like wall. Along the 40-meter wall (pitons belay, key point of the route). Ascent to the buttress to a large boulder lying separately, which is bypassed on the right. Further on, along simple and medium difficulty rocks on the left side of the buttress in the direction of the "triangle" formed by the depression in the buttress. The "triangle" is bypassed on the right along simple rocks ("live" stones). Further ascent to the buttress and along rocks of medium difficulty (belays through ledges) with small walls upwards in the direction of the saddle between the buttress and the ridge of Peak Vils. On the saddle, there is a large site (there is a place for a tent). From the site upwards along the talus (there may be snow) ascent upwards and to the left (150 m) in the direction of the destroyed north-western edge of Peak Vils, representing 3 large "gendarmeries". The "gendarmeries" are bypassed on the left along simple and medium difficulty rocks on the right side of the couloir ("live" stones, belay). From the third "gendarmerie", exit along simple and medium difficulty rocks ("live" stones - belay) to a large snow site under the summit. From it, along the talus (possibly snow-ice) slope, ascent to Peak Vils. Estimated time to complete the route is 6–8 hours. Descent along the ascent path. From the large boulder lying separately on the buttress, 40 m rappel. Descent along the South ridge of Peak Vils, category 2A, is also possible.

Brief Description of the Approach to the Route

Report

ON ASCENT TO PIK Vil'sa VIA NORTH-WEST EDGE, 5A CAT. DIFF. TEAM OF MGS DSO "ZENIT" LEADER V. Tyninkin Moscow 1972

Brief Characteristics of the Ascent Area

Tsey region is one of the main alpine centers in the Caucasus. It is distinguished by an exceptional variety and beauty of gorges. The height of the peaks in the region is over 4000 m. The highest point of the region, Mt. Uilpata, has a height of 4648 m. The height of Pik Vil'sa is 4100 m. Most routes are combined, significant glaciation of the region (Tsey and Skavish glaciers) determines the presence of complex snow and ice sections on the routes. The weather is comparatively unstable. This to a certain extent complicates ascents.

28. VILS Peak via the Northwest Ridge /combined route, cat. 5A/ From the base camp in the direction of the Green hill on the moraine of the Skaaz glacier to the point where you turn left into the couloir leading under the Vils wall. The landmark is the top of the wall, which has a characteristic trapezoidal shape. Follow the scree into the couloir, then follow the snow, keeping to the right side of the couloir. (The couloir is rockfall-prone) walk on the rocks to the right, and higher up on the snow (40°, 200–250 m) to the narrowing of the couloir opposite the rocky ridge with gendarmes leading under the peak wall. Cross the couloir with an avalanche gully (belay via ice axe) to the rocky ridge. First control point: straight up the ridge rocks to the "gendarmes". Overcome the "gendarmes" head-on, descend through the cleft down into the couloir. Then, on the left side of the couloir, bypassing the gendarmes. In the couloir, there is flow ice (50°, piton belay). To the right along the scree rocks. Then bypass the gendarmes on the left along the ice (step cutting, piton belay) to the internal corner to the right, leading to the beginning of the first wall. From the first gendarme to the beginning of the wall is 250 m. Along the internal corner and then left-up to a narrow shelf at the beginning of the wall. Control point. The wall is monolithic with a limited number of holds. Straight up through the clefts (20 m, 80°) traverse to the right into a recess (good belay point) and left-up to a ledge. The ledge is to the right and up to a two-meter shelf. Along the crack above the shelf to a wide cleft and straight along it to a ledge for belay (90 m, piton belay). Then up along the feather-like steep rocks to a gendarme on the ridge. No water. Snow in the couloir to the right. Control point. Bypassing the gendarmes to the right (piton belay 40 m). Then along the slabs (45–50°, piton belay) to the right and up under the second wall (200 m).

Appendix No. 2 to the Unified Requirements for the Report for Classification REPORT ON THE ASCENT OF PIK VILSA VIA THE NORTH-WEST RIDGE ROUTE, 5A CATEGORY OF COMPLEXITY by a team from RSO-Alania from 3:00 to 5:00 September 2024

I. Ascent Passport

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF VOENNYKH RAZVEDCHIKOV VIA THE SOUTHEAST RIDGE, CATEGORY 3B DIFFICULTY, BY THE TEAM OF THE MINISTRY OF DEFENSE OF THE RUSSIAN FEDERATION ON AUGUST 25, 2018

I. Ascent Passport

NORTH PEAK DOUBLE 5A

VIA THE EASTERN RIDGE SOUTH NORTH R15 R14 R13 R12

36. Dubl peak Yuzhny (combined route, 4A cat. dif.)

From the overnight site below Yuzhny Dubl peak rocks across the bergschrund 300 m up rightwards via broken rocks (250–300 m) to the first cairn near "Camel's Hump". Protection via rock projections. Traverse leftwards-up along a ledge, then up medium-difficulty rocks for 300 m to the second cairn (200 m). Protection via rock projections. From the second cairn

Combined route, category 4B

Path from the CSP of the Tsey district to the initial bivouac in the hut of the Southern branch of the Tsey glacier.

From the hut (departure at 3–4 am):

• Cross the plateau of the Southern branch of the Tsey glacier (closed crevasses).
• Approach the Tyrolean ice-snow right (first) ridge of the Northern wall of Zaromag peak, north of the Northern ridge and behind it, the waterfall of the glacier descending along the Northern slope of the Western ridge of Zaromag. From the plateau, after crossing the bergschrund via a snow bridge, ascend 200–250 m along the right side of a wide ice-snow couloir (avalanche rockfall). Then turn right and reach the rocks on the left side of the Northern ridge of Zaromag peak. From here:
• ascend simple rocks
• ascend scree
• reach the saddle of the Northern ridge. On the saddle, turn left, along the steep, sharp, heavily broken, and snow-covered rocky Northern ridge, approach the First wall. Bypass the wall on the right with a 90–100 m traverse along steep, above average difficulty, broken rocks (“live” stones — piton protection) to reach the buttress on the right side of the Northern ridge. Further along steep, average difficulty, broken, and in places sharp rocks of the 150–170-meter buttress, with several 3–5-meter walls above average difficulty, then ascend the walls leading to the Northern ridge (piton protection).

Fig. 57

1. Ascent to the peak Perednyaya Chotcha (3637 m) via the counterfort of the northern wall — category 4B difficulty (fig. 57)

From Dombay plain by car to the Severny shelter. From the Severny shelter:

• via a log across the Khokel river
• further along the trail on the left side of the Chotcha gorge to the snowy couloir under the northern wall of the Chotcha peak Ascent:
• up the middle of the couloir to its middle part
• then via the "ram's foreheads" and uncomplicated rocks