St. Petersburg Championship. High-Altitude Technical Class

2024 Alpkлуб "Gorniak" Team

Report

Ascent of Koazoy-Loam (3100 m) via the right part of the SE wall, Glazunova route, 5A category of difficulty February 29 - March 1, 2024 Sirel Alexander Nikolayevich, Pavlenko Georgy Dmitrievich, Kachkov Vladimir Vladimirovich

I. Ascent Passport

	1. General Information

Russian Mountaineering Championship, Ice-Snow Class

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Kyazi (Koazoy-Loam, Girech, Gaykomd) Central (3100 m) via the right buttress of the right part of the southeast wall, 5B (approximately) complexity category. Team coach: Timoshenko T.I. Participants:

• Solovey A.I.
• Kananykhin I.V.

I. Ascent Passport

1. General Information | 1.1 | Leader's full name, sports rank | Solovey Alexey Igorevich, 1st sports rank |

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT CEЙ–ЛОАМ (КЯЗИ) VIA THE RIGHT COULOIR OF THE WESTERN RIDGE, CATEGORY 2A, BY THE TEAM OF THE MOUNTAINEERING CAMPS MANAGEMENT FOR THE PERIOD FROM 18:00 ON JANUARY 18, 2022 TO 18:00 ON JANUARY 18, 2022

I. Climbing Report

№	1. General Information
1.1	Name, sports rank of the leader	Yаковенко Alexander Nikolаevich, Master of Sports
1.2	Name, sports rank of the participants	Yаковенко A. N., Master of Sports, Enatskiy A. N., 1st sports rank, Kergin I. V., 2nd sports rank, Kotiev A. A., Badge, Ramazanov I. B., Badge, Azamatov R. A., Badge, Altaev I. A., Badge, Tsindeliani B. O., Badge
1.3	Name of the coach	Yаkovenko Alexander Nikolаevich, Master of Sports
1.4	Organization	Mountaineering Camps Management
2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object

Report

ON ASCENDING AK-KAYA PEAK VIA VASILYEV'S ROUTE, CATEGORY 5B, BY FA SPb TEAM FROM JANUARY 1 TO JANUARY 5, 2019 St. Petersburg 2019

I. ASCENT DOCUMENTATION

	1. General Information
1.1	Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader	Churkin Ivan Sergeyevich, 1st sports rank
1.2	Full Name, Sports Rank of Participants	Teplov Dmitry Konstantinovich, Candidate for Master of Sports
1.3	Full Name of Coach	Timoshenko Tatiana Ivanovna, Candidate for Master of Sports
1.4	Organization	FA SPb

Arkhimed peak via V. Greben, 3A

From the “Ukyu-kosh” hut, ascend the gorge along the trail of the Ukyu glacier’s terminal moraine, then along the glacier, bypassing the northern buttresses of the 3rd ridge on the left, to the snow-ice slope leading to Ural Pass –1.5–2 hours (From the “dovecote” –3/4–1 hour). Up the middle part of the slope (rockfall hazard on the first half of the ascent from the left from the slopes of the 1st gendarme of the 3rd ridge of p. Ural) into the cirque under the pass, and up — to the pass (fig. 1). From the bivouac 2–2.5 hours. The ascent to the pre-summit “gendarme” begins along the rock ledge to the right of the ridge for 20 m and then up 40 m into the ridge’s gap (possible snow, flow ice). From the gap, descend to a ledge on the S side, along the ledge for 10 m and then up the internal angle for 30 m with piton belay to the ridge. Along the ridge simultaneously — to the top of the “gendarme”, here is a control cairn. Descent from the “gendarme”: 1st option — from the summit to the 3rd km to the protrusion, from it on a doubled rope, 7–10 m sportively down the smooth slab into the wide rock chimney. Along the chimney and then along the rocks to the left of the ridge to the isthmus (so-called “hole”), covered from above by a huge flat stone; 2nd option — from the summit first S ~40 m, then along the SW wall ledges to the same isthmus. From the isthmus, a planned or emergency descent to the N side is possible: rappel down the inclined internal angle, then down the broken rocks, two sports pitches leading into the cirque under the pass, then along the ascent route. From the isthmus, along the broken rocks to the left of the ridge, up to the snowy shoulder of the summit, then traverse left along the ledge to the rock couloir and up it with a S exit to the E summit. From the pass 3–4 hours.

St. Petersburg Alpine Climbing Championship 2012

DESCRIPTION OF THE ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF KARA-KAYA (3646 m) VIA THE CENTRAL SPUR OF THE SOUTHWEST WALL, 6A cat. dif., (E. Poltavets, 2010) The route was completed by the team of the "Polytechnic" Alpine Club

1. Central Caucasus, Bezengi gorge, section No. 2.5 of the route classifier for mountain peaks, paragraph 2.5.226 (Minutes of the Classification Committee meeting No. 6 dated December 28, 2010)
2. Peak name: Kara-Kaya (3646 m), route name: via the central spur of the southwest wall (E. Poltavets, 2010)
3. Cat. dif.: 6A
4. Route type: rock
5. Route elevation gain: 700 m (by altimeter) Route length: 1151 m. Section length: 5 cat. dif. — 245 m, 6 cat. dif. — 491 m.

Route Description to the Summit

Kundryum-Mijirgi via the Col

Kundryum-Mijirgi (via Pik Skal'nyi) 3A cat. diff.

Day I

From the Bezengi alpine camp to overnight stays on the third stage of the Kundryum-Mijirgi glacier.

Day 2

From overnight stays on the third stage to the Kundryum-Mijirgi col and to the summit of Pik Skal'nyi (see route description to Pik Skal'nyi 2B cat. diff.). Descent from the summit of Pik Skal'nyi directly north along the ridge is possible in two ways:

• — First — 20 m rappel on a double rope thrown over a ledge 2–3 m below the summit, then along a narrow shelf 5 m to the right and down 30 m through a rocky couloir to the saddle behind the summit.

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF TSEY-LOAM (KYAZI) VIA THE SOUTHERN BUTTRESS ROUTE 2B cat. diff. BY THE TEAM OF THE MOUNTAINEERING CAMPS MANAGEMENT FOR THE PERIOD FROM NOVEMBER 1, 2021 TO NOVEMBER 1, 2021

I. Ascent Passport

№№	1. General Information
1.1	Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader	Utyashev Yuri Anatolyevich, 2nd sports rank
1.2	Full Name, Sports Rank of the Participants	Bobrinsky Konstantin Igorevich, 2nd sports rank
1.3	Full Name of the Coach	Yakovenko Alexander Nikolayevich
1.4	Organization	Mountaineering Camps Management