Route Description to the Summit

Kundryum-Mijirgi via the Col

Kundryum-Mijirgi (via Pik Skal'nyi) 3A cat. diff.

Day I

From the Bezengi alpine camp to overnight stays on the third stage of the Kundryum-Mijirgi glacier.

Day 2

From overnight stays on the third stage to the Kundryum-Mijirgi col and to the summit of Pik Skal'nyi (see route description to Pik Skal'nyi 2B cat. diff.).

Descent from the summit of Pik Skal'nyi directly north along the ridge is possible in two ways:

• — First — 20 m rappel on a double rope thrown over a ledge 2–3 m below the summit, then along a narrow shelf 5 m to the right and down 30 m through a rocky couloir to the saddle behind the summit.
• — Second — free rappel 40 m directly from the summit to the saddle.

Exit from the saddle first to the right onto a shelf, then up onto the ridge. Along the ridge to the gendarme. From the base of the gendarme, move left and along inclined slabs to the ridge between the two summits of the gendarme.

Descent:

• From the gendarme, simple climbing to the saddle before the summit of Kundryum-Mijirgi.
• From the summit to the saddle — 3–4 hours.

Further path to the summit along the North ridge — see description of the route to Kundryum-Mijirgi via the couloir and North ridge 2B cat. diff.

Descent via the 2B cat. diff. route.