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Route Description: З кф.
Description of the first ascent to the summit of Tsyndyshko via the Western counterfort of the Krasnodar Krai Council of the Burevestnik Sports Society on April 29-30, 1974, with a detailed analysis of the route.
REPORT on the first ascent to the summit of Tsyndyshho Main via the Western counterfort in the period from April 29 to 30, 1974, by a group from the Krasnodar Regional Council of the Burevestnik Sports Society (Route complexity category — 3B)
Description of the ascent to Mt. Tsyndyshho Main (3210 m) via the Western counterfort
Group composition:
- Khoruzhik O.V. — 1st sports category — leader
- Shklyaev E.V. — Candidate Master of Sports — participant
- Gerasyuk A.K. — Candidate Master of Sports — participant
- Kovalevsky V.A. — Candidate Master of Sports — participant
- Akhtyrsky O.A. — Candidate Master of Sports — participant
First day — April 29, 1974
Route Description: С стене
Description of the 4B category difficulty climbing route to the Tsyndyshko North summit via the north wall, 1100 m long with a height difference of 1200 m.
REPORT
On the first ascent to the summit of Tsyndyshko North via the North wall, May 5-7, 1972, by a group from the Krasnodar Regional Council of the Burevestnik Sports Society
Group Composition
1. AKHTYRSKY O.A. — CMS — team leader 2. GERASYUK A.K. — CMS — participant 3. BEZRUKAVNIKOV A.I. — 1st sports category — « — 4. SOVENKOV V.S. — 2nd sports category — « —
Approach to the Initial Bivouac
From Adler to Lake Ritsa by bus. Then to Avadhara settlement, 4-5 hours on foot or 30 minutes by car (depending on road conditions). Overnight stay.
Route Description: с пер. Цындышхо
Ascent route to Tsyndyshko West peak (3150 m) from Tsyndyshko pass, category IIb.
Ascent Passport
| Ascent Category | — technical |
|---|---|
| Ascent Region | — Krasnodar Krai, Kardyvach Lake |
| Ascent Route | — Mt. Tsyndyshkho Southwest (3150 m) from Tsyndyshkho Pass, 2B category |
| Ascent Characteristics: | |
| The route is combined, total elevation gain — 400–450 m, average slope — 35–40°, total climbing time (from camp to camp) — 10–13 hours. | |
| Team Name | — Group of climbers from Krasnodar City Committee on Physical Culture and Sports. |
| Team Members: | Zavalei Igor Leonidovich — leader, 2nd sports category; Nataev Vladimir Nikolaevich — Master of Sports of the USSR, senior instructor; Yakovleva Lyudmila Trofimovna — 3rd sports category; Rogulenko Vyacheslav Ivanovich — 2nd sports category |
| Team Coach — | Kisel Sergey Yakovlevich — Master of Sports of the USSR, senior mountaineering instructor. |
Route Description: ЮЗ гребню
Report on the first ascent of category 1B route via the southwestern ridge of the 2970 m peak (Zaimov-peak) in the Arkhyz region of the Western Caucasus.
Peak 2970.0 (Zaimov-peak) Route: via the southwestern ridge Complexity category — 1B cat. (combined) Leader: G. G. Skosyrev Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Gnilaya gully, Kara-Jash mountain range Section in CMGA — 2.1. E-mail — ZHUR58@RAMBLER.RU
Report
On the first ascent of the climbing route to the summit of Peak 2970.0 (Zaimov-peak) "Via the southwestern ridge" 1B cat. (combined). At the year-round alpine event: "Championship and primacy of NP 'Club of Northern Travels 'Sauk-Pai' 2012 (class 'First ascents')".
Route Description: СЗ гребню
Description of the first ascent route to the summit "Peak 3305" in the Arkhyz mountain region on the Western Caucasus, made by a group of climbers from the Stavropol region on May 5, 1980.
Report
On the first ascent to the summit "Pik 3305", made by a group of climbers from the Stavropol region on May 5, 1980, in the Arkhyz mountain region (Western Caucasus) of the Stavropol region, west of the "Marukh" pass, Sofiyskiy ridge. The Arkhyz mountain region is located on the northern slopes of the Main Caucasian Range between the Kardyvach region (Krasnodar region) to the west and the "Marukhskiy" pass to the east. The region is entirely within the Stavropol region and is located within 43° north latitude. North of the Main Caucasian Range lies the Sofiyskiy ridge, where this unnamed peak with an elevation of 3305 meters above sea level is located. The base camp was situated at an altitude of 1320 m above sea level, 1.5 km from the "Lednikovaya" farm. From the base camp, the route went upstream along the Sofia River to the tributary from the Ak-Ayry glacier, then up to the "barany lby" (ram's foreheads), and from there to the right into a wide couloir that led to the firn fields. And then further up to the "Stolichny" pass — a 3-hour walk from the camp. The "Pik 3305" summit is a rocky massif on the crest of the Sofiyskiy ridge, approached by several powerful counterforts from the north. To the south, it ends in a ridge leading to "Pik 3200", v. Nadezhda 3353, and further to v. Sofia 3640 m. The northern side of "Pik 3305" continues with a ridge leading to "Pik 3231" and further to the Mingi-Kyol-Bashi 3230 m peak. The ascent route is combined — rock and snow, ridge. The character of the rocks: mostly heavily destroyed and snow-covered. The qualification of the group that made the first ascent is quite high — 1st sports category, three of the climbers being instructors-methodologists in mountaineering. The ascent was tactically competent. The description of the ascent route, passport, table of main characteristics, map scheme, photographs, and other materials are attached. Group composition:
Route Description: С склону
Description of the first ascent route to the unnamed peak 3251 m in the Sofiyskiy area of Arkhyz, named "September 9", category 3B via the northern slope.
CLIMBING CLASS — Rock climbing
CLIMBING REGION — Western Caucasus, Middle part of the North-West ridge of the Sofiyskiy ridge to the South-East from Stolichny 3.251 pass
PEAK, ROUTE — “9 September” (first ascenders’ suggestion) via the Northern slope
PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 3B
ROUTE DESCRIPTION — Combined (snow and rock), absolute height difference ~550 m
NUMBER OF PITONS DRIVEN — 10
DURATION — 4.5 hours
NUMBER OF NIGHTS — No nights required on the route
CLIMBING LEADER — E. Zaporozhchenko, Candidate for Master of Sports
Route Description: В гребню
Description of a technical route of 2B category of difficulty to the top Kardivach-Main (3150 m) in Krasnodar region via the eastern ridge.
ASCENT PASS
- Ascent class: technical
- Ascent area: 2.1. Krasnodar Krai up to Marukh pass.
- Peak, its height, ascent route: Kardyvach — Glavnaya, 3150 m, via the eastern ridge, combined (snow, rocks).
- Route characteristics: height difference 700 m, average steepness 40°.
- Expected difficulty category: 2B.
- Pitons driven: for belay; for creating artificial support points | | rock pitons | ice screws | | :---------- | :--------- | :--------- | | rock | 2 | 1 |
Route Description: ЮВ гребню
Report on the ascent to the summit of Chugush (3238 m) via the South-Eastern ridge, category 2B difficulty level, a combined route.
ALPINISM FEDERATION OF KRASNODAR TERRITORY REPORT ON THE ASCENT TO CHUGUSH PEAK (3238 m) VIA THE SOUTHEAST RIDGE, Presumably Category 2B, combined. First ascent. Team leader – Ivan Sergeyevich Kuchkin Sochi 2020
Ascent Details
- Western Caucasus, Krasnaya Polyana area, Achipse gorge, section 2.1 of the mountain peak route classifier.
- Peak: Chugush, 3238 m.
- Route: via the Southeast Ridge
- Category of difficulty: presumably 2B
- Route type: combined
Route Description: С склону через ледник Соловьева
Report on the first ascent to the summit Nadezhda via the northern slope, category 2A. The team from the Russian Student Outdoors Association "FAM" in Moscow completed the route via the Solovyov Glacier.
Report
ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT NADEZHDA VIA THE NORTHERN SLOPE ROUTE, CATEGORY 2A COMPLEXITY, BY THE TEAM OF RSOO "FAM" MOSCOW, JULY 26, 2023 2024
I. Climbing Report Details
| № | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Leader's Full Name, Sports Rank | Murashova Olga Dmitrievna, 3rd sports rank |
| 1.2 | Participants' Full Names, Sports Ranks | Pruyak Roman Valerievich, 1st sports rank |
| 1.3 | Coach's Full Name | - |
| 1.4 | Organization | RSFO "FAM" Moscow |
Route Description: СВ гребню
Ascent to the summit of Herzog via the Northeast Ridge: route, difficulty categories, recommendations for climbers, and necessary equipment.
Fig.
13
Fig. 14
3. Ascent to the Herzog peak via the North-Eastern ridge — for the difficulty category (Fig. 13 and 14)
From Dombayskaya Polyana to Turiy Lake — bivouac. From Dombayskaya Polyana 3.5–4 hours. From the bivouac up the moraine, then along the Alibek glacier (the glacier is exposed, belay!) to the rocky gate between the rocks of the northern edge of Herzog and the rocks under the eastern slope of Jalovchat. Up the steep snow-ice slope: