90. Missestau via the West Couloir and the South Ridge — Cat. 3A (A. Germogenov, M. Afanasiev and N. Nikolaev — July 1931; Figs. 25, 31). From the Bezengi alpine camp, follow the trail along the left moraine of the Bezengi gorge up to the Misseskozh hut, then continue along the trail on the moraine. 30 minutes later, from the large stone with the inscription "VCSPS – 1935", turn left and climb up the grassy slopes and scree to a wide scree couloir. Ascend the couloir on its right side (beware of falling stones from the left walls!). Bypass the "ram's foreheads" in the upper part of the couloir on the left and ascend via the scree to the right lowering of the West Ridge of Missestau. At this point, the ridge drops steeply on the south side to the icefall of the hanging glacier flowing from the North Ridge of Dykhtau. On the south side of the ridge are the "Russian Bivouac" sites. Water is available 25–30 m higher up the ridge. From the Bezengi alpine camp — 5–6 hours. From the "Russian Bivouac":

• 20–30 m up the ridge, then 120–150 m along the horizontal ledge on its right side — exit onto the glacier.
• Cross the glacier (in crampons), bypassing crevices on the right — exit to a wide snow couloir descending from the col of the South Ridge of Missestau.
• On the right side of the couloir (beware of rockfall and avalanches!) — 250–300 m ascent.
• From under the "ram's foreheads" — traverse to the left side of the couloir and ascend it to a rocky angle.
• From the angle, via a steep, sharply narrowing ice-and-snow couloir (loose rocks, rockfall, piton belay!) — ascent to the col of the South Ridge of Missestau, left of the rocky tower of the South Gendarme.
• From the col, traverse left and via easy rocks on the ridge — exit below the pre-summit tower, which is bypassed on the right along a wide snowy rock ledge. It is also possible to ascend the tower directly along the ridge.

For «Russkie nochevki» (Russian bivouac) see description 90. From «Russkie nochevki» 20–30 m up the Zapadny (West) ridge, then 120–150 m along the horizontal ledge on its right side — exit to the glacier. Across the glacier (crampons!), bypassing crevasses on the right — exit to a wide snow couloir descending from the saddle of the Yuzhny (South) ridge of Missestau summit. On the right side of the couloir (stonefall! avalanches!) 100–120 m up, then traverse across the main couloir and along the first, steeper and narrower, couloir branching left 220–250 m up (piton belay!). At the end of the couloir along the wall 70–80 m up-left (difficult climbing! piton belay!) — ascent to the Zapadny (West) ridge.

Misses-Tau via W wall, 5A (via left skyline of W wall)

From the base to the sites on the glacier bend under the SE ridge base of p. Brno — 2.5–3 hours. From here:

• along the edge of the 3rd branch of the Mizhirgi glacier (Cheget-Mizhirgi) to the icefall;
• ascent to the upper circus by “ram foreheads” and moraine slopes to the right of the streams. On the moraine ridge of the upper circus — the initial bivouac site, from the bend — 1.5–2 hours. From the bivouac along the moraine slope and snow (ice) exit to the glacier plateau under the E wall. Across the plateau to the left along the rocks to the scree from the wide couloir descending from the square “gendarme” on the saddle between Misses-Tau and Dykh-Tau. 40–50 m to the right of the couloir:
• up along the destroyed rocks (rockfall hazard!) 40 m,
• then along the slabs with shelves 80 m — exit to the lower part of the oblique couloir (shelves), separating the left buttress from the wall.

Ascent of Misses-Tau via the right counterforter of the East face, 5B cat. diff. (Climbing report)

From the base to the campsite at the turn of the glacier under the base of the SE ridge of p. Brno — 2.5–3 hours. From here, along the edge of the 3rd branch of the Mizhirgi glacier (Cheget-Mizhirgi) to the icefall. Then:

• Ascend to the upper cirque via "ram's foreheads" and moraine slopes to the right of the streams.
• On the moraine ridge of the upper cirque — the initial bivouac site, 1.5–2 hours from the turn. From the bivouac, ascend the moraine slope and snow (ice) to the glacier plateau under the E wall. Across the plateau, move left along the rocks towards the debris from the couloir between the left and right counterforts of the E wall. Up the avalanche cone to the throat of the couloir. Via "ram's foreheads" to the right, 15 m under the wall — a shelter. 65–75 m up and to the right on smoothed, partially grass-covered, fairly difficult rocks, under the overhanging wall to the right of the water runoff. Traverse left (12–20 m) and then bypass the overhangs to reach a wide green ledge under the broad wall that blocks the ascent. From the start of the rocks to this point — 130 m.

Report on the ascent to the summit of Misses-Tau via the 5B category route by the sports group of the FASPb assembly

(Yu. Shevchenko's route, 1976)

Climbing passport

1. Climbing category: Technical
2. Climbing region: Central Caucasus, Mijirgi gorge
3. Climbing route with indication of peaks and their heights: Misses-Tau peak 4427 via the right counterfort of the wall, combined, 5B category
4. Route characteristics:

• Route length 1550 m
• Height difference 980 m
• Average steepness of the main part 85°, total 70°

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Misses via the right spur on the Wall, category 5B, by the team from KAiS MEI from August 9, 2019, to August 13, 2019.

I. Climbing Report

Central Federal District Climbing Championship 2022 (altitude and technical class) Report on the ascent of Misses peak (4425 m) via the right buttress on the wall, Yu. Shevchenko 1976, 5B cat. difficulty The route was completed by a team from St. Petersburg - Moscow Moscow 2022

Ascent Passport

1. Western Caucasus, 2.5. From Kithlod pass to Gezhevek pass (north of the Main Caucasian Range)
2. Misses peak (4425 m) via the right buttress on the wall, Yu. Shevchenko 1976

1. Climbing Report for the Ascent of Misses-Tau via the Right Counterfort in the Wall, Category 5B (Combined) Route by Yu. Shevchenko's Mixed Team from Magnitogorsk and Yekaterinburg "MiKraLip" from 17:00 on August 17, 2024, to 17:00 on August 21, 2024

1. Ascent Passport

Ascent Passport

1. Central Caucasus, Mizhirgi gorge, 2.5. From Kittlod pass to Gezivcek pass (from the north from the Main Caucasian Ridge).
2. Name of the peak: Misses-Tau, name of the route through the center of the Eastern wall.
3. Proposed — 6A category of difficulty, second ascent.
4. Nature of the route: combined
5. Height difference of the route: 980 m (by altimeter) Route length: 1492 m. Length of sections:

• V category of difficulty — 295 m.
• VI category of difficulty — 165 m. Average steepness:

Jailyk via the East Ridge (I. Yukhin's route, cat. 4A)

The path from the Adylsu alpine camp (group of 4–8 people) through the Tyutyusu gorge to the initial bivouac at the upper part of the left-bank moraine of the Tyutyusu glacier is described in routes 184 and 188. From the initial bivouac on the moraine:

• Turn left and exit onto the snowy West counterfort descending from the East Ridge of Jailyk peak into the Tyutyusu gorge.
• Ascend the snowy, gently sloping ridge of the counterfort with several steep rises.
• Then move to the snow-ice slope (avalanches!) and continue ascending to the East Ridge of Jailyk peak. On the East Ridge:
• Turn right here.
• Move along simple and moderately difficult rocks, partly along a narrow snowy ridge (snowcornices!), and reach the base of the rocky ascent of the East gendarme.
• Overcome the gendarme directly via steep, crumbling, moderately difficult rocks of the ridge.