
For «Russkie nochevki» (Russian bivouac) see description 90. From «Russkie nochevki» 20–30 m up the Zapadny (West) ridge, then 120–150 m along the horizontal ledge on its right side — exit to the glacier. Across the glacier (crampons!), bypassing crevasses on the right — exit to a wide snow couloir descending from the saddle of the Yuzhny (South) ridge of Missestau summit. On the right side of the couloir (stonefall! avalanches!) 100–120 m up, then traverse across the main couloir and along the first, steeper and narrower, couloir branching left 220–250 m up (piton belay!). At the end of the couloir along the wall 70–80 m up-left (difficult climbing! piton belay!) — ascent to the Zapadny (West) ridge.
Further on the route:
- Along simple rocks of the ridge or ledges on its right side up to the gendarme, which is bypassed on the right: first traverse along ledges, then up along the rock couloir (piton belay!) — ascent behind the gendarme onto the ridge.
- Bypass of the gendarme is also possible on the left: first along the snow to the couloir and along it up to the ledges. Along the ledges traverse up-left (belay!) and along the second couloir (piton belay!) — ascent behind the gendarme onto the ridge.
- Further 90 m up along the simple rock-snow ridge — ascent to the summit of Missestau.
From «Russkie nochlevki» — 9–11 hours. Descent along the Yuzhny (South) ridge see in description 90.
Recommendations for climbers
- Number of participants — 4–5 people.
- Initial bivouac — «Russkie nochlevki» (Russian bivouac).
- Departure time — 3–4 am.
- Equipment: main rope — 2×40 m; Repschnur ( cordelette ) — 3 m; rock pitons — 6–8; ice pitons — 2–3; rock hammer — 2; carabiners — 10–12; crampons — 4 pairs; tent — 1.
- Bivouac sites — on the Zapadny (West) ridge, on the summit and on the ledge of the Yuzhny (South) ridge.