90. Missestau via the West Couloir and the South Ridge — Cat. 3A (A. Germogenov, M. Afanasiev and N. Nikolaev — July 1931; Figs. 25, 31).

From the Bezengi alpine camp, follow the trail along the left moraine of the Bezengi gorge up to the Misseskozh hut, then continue along the trail on the moraine. 30 minutes later, from the large stone with the inscription "VCSPS – 1935", turn left and climb up the grassy slopes and scree to a wide scree couloir. Ascend the couloir on its right side (beware of falling stones from the left walls!).

Bypass the "ram's foreheads" in the upper part of the couloir on the left and ascend via the scree to the right lowering of the West Ridge of Missestau. At this point, the ridge drops steeply on the south side to the icefall of the hanging glacier flowing from the North Ridge of Dykhtau. On the south side of the ridge are the "Russian Bivouac" sites. Water is available 25–30 m higher up the ridge.

From the Bezengi alpine camp — 5–6 hours. From the "Russian Bivouac":

• 20–30 m up the ridge, then 120–150 m along the horizontal ledge on its right side — exit onto the glacier.
• Cross the glacier (in crampons), bypassing crevices on the right — exit to a wide snow couloir descending from the col of the South Ridge of Missestau.
• On the right side of the couloir (beware of rockfall and avalanches!) — 250–300 m ascent.
• From under the "ram's foreheads" — traverse to the left side of the couloir and ascend it to a rocky angle.
• From the angle, via a steep, sharply narrowing ice-and-snow couloir (loose rocks, rockfall, piton belay!) — ascent to the col of the South Ridge of Missestau, left of the rocky tower of the South Gendarme.
• From the col, traverse left and via easy rocks on the ridge — exit below the pre-summit tower, which is bypassed on the right along a wide snowy rock ledge. It is also possible to ascend the tower directly along the ridge.
• Continue via easy rocks on the ridge to the summit of Missestau.

From the "Russian Bivouac" — 6–7 hours.

Descent:

• Follow the ascent route down to the "Russian Bivouac" — 2.5–3.5 hours.
• To the Bezengi alpine camp — 5–6 hours.

Recommendations for Climbers

1. Number of participants — 4–5 people.
2. Starting bivouac — "Russian Bivouac".
3. Departure time — 3–4 am.
4. Equipment: main rope — 2×30 m; auxiliary cord — 3 m; rock pitons — 5–6; ice screws — 3–4; rock hammer — 2; carabiners — 8–10; crampons — 4 pairs; tent — 1.
5. Bivouac sites — on the ledge of the South Ridge and on the summit.