2. Maly Galdor (4080 m) via the East Ridge (rocky route, category 2A difficulty). The path from the "Nakhashbita" clearing (group of 4-12 people) to the platforms near the black rock is described in route 1. From the platforms, ascend a wide, scree-covered (possibly snow-covered) slope of the couloir to the saddle of the Sugansky Ridge between the Maly Galdor peak on the left and Botkin Peak on the right. At the saddle, turn left and reach the rocks of the East Ridge of Maly Galdor. From here, ascend simple, sometimes steep (requiring protection) rocks of the East Ridge to Maly Galdor. The time from the platforms near the black rock is 2 hours 30 minutes. The descent follows the ascent route. Naumov A. F. Karau gom, Digoria, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.

Fig. 8 31. Doppakh East via Eastern ridge (combined route by V. Popov, category 4A, fig. 8). The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4–8 people) to the Doppakh pass is described in route 17. A bivouac is possible at the pass. At the pass, turn left and exit onto the rocks of the Eastern ridge of the East Doppakh peak. Through rocks of medium difficulty with short sections of above-medium difficulty:

• left - upwards to a wide chimney with two large boulders.
• Through rocks on the left side of the wide chimney, ascend to a talus shelf above the

Дыхкая (3950 m) is located in the Psygansky ridge, between the peak of Shevchenko to the south and the Psygan peak to the north. The simple long, heavily destroyed Western ridge descends from Dykhkaia towards the Nakhashbita glacier, and the same Eastern ridge descends into the Khaznidon river valley. Between the four ridges of the summit lie cirque glaciers. 15. Dykhkaia via the Southern ridge, 2A cat. dif. (V. Popov, P. Sredinsky, G. Redkin, V. Shevchenko, I. Korchan, I. Chernyaeva, August 22, 1937) From the base camp on the right bank of the Psygangsuy river, near the tongue of the Nakhashbita glacier (group of 4-12 people), go up a little, turn left and ascend along the left bank of the stream, which flows from under the Dykhkaia glacier, lying between the Western and Southern ridges of Dykhkaia summit. Under the steep overhanging tongue of the Dykhkaia glacier (rockfall possible) cross the stream to the right and go around the glacier on the right via destroyed rocks (belay). Then, via

Fig. 18 65. Laboda Glavnaya via North контрфорс and North-East ridge (combined route by E. Batukaev, 4A cat. dif., Fig. 18). From the “Nakhashbita” meadow (group of 4–8 people) descend to the Khares River and near the confluence of the Orsdon River, cross to the left bank of Khares. From the river, ascend along the steep grassy slope of the gully, which gradually narrows into a narrow couloir with steep rocky walls (rockfall possible). From the upper part of the couloir, traverse simple rocks and ledges to the right onto the wide talus ridge of the North контрфорс of the Laboda massif. Further along the talus and simple

Ascent Passport

1. Digoria, Sugansky ridge, Classification section number 2.6.
2. p. Naumova (3602 m) – from the South.
3. Proposed 2A category of complexity, first ascent.
4. Route character — rocky.
5. Route height difference – 300 m (from point R0). Total route length – 510 m. Length of sections with 4th category of complexity – 30 m. Average steepness:
   • key sections – 70°

Fig. 6 19. Nakhshbita Glavnaya via the Southwest Ridge from the south (A. Chernyaev's combined route, category III, fig. 6). The path from the "Nakhshbita" meadow (group of 4–8 people) to the bivouac on the saddle of the Nakhshbita massif is described in route 18. From the site, traverse 120 meters along the snowy ridge (cornice) to the saddle and reach the Southwest Ridge of Glavnaya Nakhshbita. Ascend 70–80 meters along the snow-covered, possibly icy, moderately difficult rocks of the Southwest Ridge to a rocky outcrop. Bypass the outcrop:

• Traverse 120–140 meters to the right along a steep ice-snow slope along the rocks (piton belay) on the right side of the ridge. Then:
• Turn left.
• Ascend along the snow-covered rocks, then along a steep ice-snow slope (belaying) to the Southwest Ridge.

56. Sugan Yuzhny — Lozhny (combined route, category III, Fig. 12). The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4–8 people) to the summit of Yuzhny Sugan is described in route 47. From the summit, descend via a simple snow-covered rocky couloir on the right side of the Northern ridge. Descent along the ridge is also possible but more difficult. From the couloir, traverse steep, partially broken, medium-difficulty (belay required) rocks on the right side of the ridge to reach a saddle below the I gendarme. Overcome the gendarme directly via simple and medium-difficulty rocks to the second saddle. From the saddle, traverse simple and medium-difficulty broken rocks on the right side of the ridge («live» stones — belay required) to bypass the rocky «saw» — several

Fig. 9 35. Suganbashi via the Northwest Ridge (a combined route by A. Zyuzin, category 3B difficulty, Fig. 9). From the base camp on the right bank of the Psygansu River, near the tongue of the Nakhashbita Glacier (group of 4-8 people), ascend along the moraine ridge up the gorge. Then move right onto the Nakhashbita Glacier, cross it diagonally to the right and upwards, and approach the Western branch of the glacier descending from the Sugan Ridge saddle (between the Suganbashi peak on the left and the Central Sugan massif on the right). From here, along the broken snowy slopes on the right side of the Western branch of the

Ai-Petri Uzunkol — description of the 1B alpinist route from SK Greta

Route description:

From the "Uzunkol" base, cross the bridge to the right bank of the Uzunkol river, then downstream along the bank to the third (from the bridge) green couloir. Go up along it to the left — along the stream (no trail) to the uppermost grassy saddle in the first (it's always on the right) rocky ridge. From the base — 2 hours. Through the saddle, enter the neighboring talus cirque of Ai-Petri, cross it, and approach the base of the lateral rocky couloir, which divides the visible part of the summit slope in half. The landmark for the entrance to the couloir is a separate rocky outcrop. To the right of it are "ram's foreheads", to the left — a grassy slope with rocky outcrops. Higher up, the rocks turn into walls of reddish color.

South-east, 1B cat.

From Dombai clearing or h/c "Alibek" along the trail and grassy slopes and talus exit under Khrustalny pass, traverse steep spurs of the eastern ridge of Semenov-Bashi peak. Place for a bivouac — 3–4 hours. From the bivouac:

• Along a gentle slope in the direction of Khrustalny pass and, 100–150 m before the pass, left up a branched couloir.
• Up the couloir to the eastern ridge. Rockfall hazard!
• Then left along the ridge to the summit. Gendarmes are bypassed mainly on the right, downhill.
• At the beginning of summer — snow cornices on the north.