The description is compiled based on materials from the training part of Ulutau a/l.

Description of the Approach to the Route

From the AGЛК "Jailyk", cross the bridge over the Adyr-Su river downstream. Behind the bridge, to the left near the source, a trail begins, going through the forest up the slope in the direction of the Jalovchat lake. Climbing along the trail:

• Cross to the left (green) moraine, leading to the N. counterfort of the E. ridge in Koy-Avgan.
• Continue ascent along the moraine.
• The N. counterfort of the E. ridge is dissected by a large couloir in its lower part.
• Ascend along the green moraine until the upper part of the counterfort dissected by the couloir starts to overhang on the left.
• Here, turn left and ascend up the slope to the rocks of the counterfort, leaving the couloir to the right.
• The start of the route is in the middle (between two rocky spurs) of the lower part of the bastion, which is crowned with a rocky tooth and connected by a narrow ridge to the main part of the counterfort.

331. Nenskra via North Face (combined route, A. Snesareva, cat. 4A, fig. 32, 44). From the initial bivouac on the snow plateau of the Nenskra Glacier under the North Face of Nenskra peak, ascend via an avalanche-prone couloir, then via easy and moderately difficult rocks alternating with snowy slopes and small walls (loose rocks) to the Upper Rock Belt. From there, ascend steep, heavily broken rocks of above-average difficulty to the Upper Rock Island. Then, via a steep ice-snow slope with rock outcrops, reach the col on the ridge between the Southwest and Northeast peaks of Nenskra. From the glacier plateau, 7-8 hours. From the col, turn right and ascend simple rocks of the ridge spur to the summit of Nenskra Southwest. Descend to the col via the ascent route. From the col, via monolithic simple and moderately difficult rocks of the ascent, then along the long Western ridge, ascend to the summit of Nenskra Northeast. From the Northeast summit, descend via heavily broken simple and moderately difficult rocks of the Northeast ridge to the col under the Big Gendarme. Overcome the Gendarme head-on via simple rocks of the ridge, then via rappelling and sport descent to the saddle under the snowy shoulder. From the saddle, via a simple snow-covered rocky ridge, exit onto the snowy shoulder. From the shoulder, via a gentle snow-covered rocky ridge, descend to the snow plateau under the nameless Main Caucasian Ridge pass. From the Southwest peak, 5-7 hours.

Fig. 18 65. Laboda Glavnaya via North контрфорс and North-East ridge (combined route by E. Batukaev, 4A cat. dif., Fig. 18). From the “Nakhashbita” meadow (group of 4–8 people) descend to the Khares River and near the confluence of the Orsdon River, cross to the left bank of Khares. From the river, ascend along the steep grassy slope of the gully, which gradually narrows into a narrow couloir with steep rocky walls (rockfall possible). From the upper part of the couloir, traverse simple rocks and ledges to the right onto the wide talus ridge of the North контрфорс of the Laboda massif. Further along the talus and simple

Ascent Passport

1. Digoria, Sugansky ridge, Classification section number 2.6.
2. p. Naumova (3602 m) – from the South.
3. Proposed 2A category of complexity, first ascent.
4. Route character — rocky.
5. Route height difference – 300 m (from point R0). Total route length – 510 m. Length of sections with 4th category of complexity – 30 m. Average steepness:
   • key sections – 70°

Fig. 6 19. Nakhshbita Glavnaya via the Southwest Ridge from the south (A. Chernyaev's combined route, category III, fig. 6). The path from the "Nakhshbita" meadow (group of 4–8 people) to the bivouac on the saddle of the Nakhshbita massif is described in route 18. From the site, traverse 120 meters along the snowy ridge (cornice) to the saddle and reach the Southwest Ridge of Glavnaya Nakhshbita. Ascend 70–80 meters along the snow-covered, possibly icy, moderately difficult rocks of the Southwest Ridge to a rocky outcrop. Bypass the outcrop:

• Traverse 120–140 meters to the right along a steep ice-snow slope along the rocks (piton belay) on the right side of the ridge. Then:
• Turn left.
• Ascend along the snow-covered rocks, then along a steep ice-snow slope (belaying) to the Southwest Ridge.

56. Sugan Yuzhny — Lozhny (combined route, category III, Fig. 12). The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4–8 people) to the summit of Yuzhny Sugan is described in route 47. From the summit, descend via a simple snow-covered rocky couloir on the right side of the Northern ridge. Descent along the ridge is also possible but more difficult. From the couloir, traverse steep, partially broken, medium-difficulty (belay required) rocks on the right side of the ridge to reach a saddle below the I gendarme. Overcome the gendarme directly via simple and medium-difficulty rocks to the second saddle. From the saddle, traverse simple and medium-difficulty broken rocks on the right side of the ridge («live» stones — belay required) to bypass the rocky «saw» — several

Fig. 9 35. Suganbashi via the Northwest Ridge (a combined route by A. Zyuzin, category 3B difficulty, Fig. 9). From the base camp on the right bank of the Psygansu River, near the tongue of the Nakhashbita Glacier (group of 4-8 people), ascend along the moraine ridge up the gorge. Then move right onto the Nakhashbita Glacier, cross it diagonally to the right and upwards, and approach the Western branch of the glacier descending from the Sugan Ridge saddle (between the Suganbashi peak on the left and the Central Sugan massif on the right). From here, along the broken snowy slopes on the right side of the Western branch of the

Ai-Petri Uzunkol — description of the 1B alpinist route from SK Greta

Route description:

From the "Uzunkol" base, cross the bridge to the right bank of the Uzunkol river, then downstream along the bank to the third (from the bridge) green couloir. Go up along it to the left — along the stream (no trail) to the uppermost grassy saddle in the first (it's always on the right) rocky ridge. From the base — 2 hours. Through the saddle, enter the neighboring talus cirque of Ai-Petri, cross it, and approach the base of the lateral rocky couloir, which divides the visible part of the summit slope in half. The landmark for the entrance to the couloir is a separate rocky outcrop. To the right of it are "ram's foreheads", to the left — a grassy slope with rocky outcrops. Higher up, the rocks turn into walls of reddish color.

319. Leiraq via the West Ridge (combined route, T. Suprunova, category 3A complexity, fig. 32, 43). On the right side of the Leiraq Glacier (milestone 316) ascend along the northern slopes of the Unnamed Peak to the saddle in the West Ridge of Leiraq peak — the Alpinist Pass. Here, turn right and, crossing the bergschrund, ascend the steep snow-ice slope or, to the left, along the scree and easy rocks to the Alpinist Pass. Bivouac. 5–7 hours from the village of Nakra. At the pass, turn left and reach the West Ridge rocks of Leiraq peak. Follow the straightforward 200-meter West Ridge, overcoming three small gendarmes directly (with protection), to reach a plateau with a small lake. From the lake, ascend a 30–40-meter wall of moderate difficulty (using pitons) to a plateau. Then, traverse 30–40 meters of steep rocks of moderate difficulty («unstable rocks», with protection); subsequently, follow the straightforward rocky, partially snow-covered (with cornices) West Ridge with an ice pitch to reach the summit of Leiraq. 5–6 hours from the Alpinist Pass.