Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: high-altitude technical.
2. Ascent region: Central Pamir, southern spur of the Yazgulemsky Ridge in the area of p. Revolyutsii.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. Pinka, 6254 m, southern ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 4B category of difficulty.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1450 m, average steepness up to the exit to the southern shoulder — 3°, average steepness of the southern shoulder — 6–7°,
6. Number of pitons hammered: rock — 19, ice — 12, bolt —
7. Number of climbing hours: 15 hours.

Technical Description of the Route

2624 The description of the route from base camp "4300" to camp "Peredovoy" is given in the description of the first ascent of Pik Fikker made by a group of the Chelyabinsk expedition of the Zenit Sports Association under the general leadership of Master of Sports of the USSR Levin M.S. From camp "Peredovoy" (see photo 1 and 2), ascend along the rocks via a snow-ice slope covered with calga-spores to the ridge. The slope's steepness is 30–40°. The height gain to the ridge is 300 m. High calga-spores, especially on steep sections, ensure safe movement early in the morning. Movement is in rope teams. Time to ascend to the ridge is 1 hour. Further movement is along the ridge. The ridge is snowy, with protruding rocky outcrops, and is wide. The steepness of the slopes forming it is 40–50°. The steepness of the ridge from the point of ascent to the summit varies from 10–15° to 40–45°. Before reaching the summit, one can move along the talus or to the right along the snowy slope. Movement along the entire path is in rope teams. Time to ascend along the ridge to the summit: 1–1.5 hours. The summit is a dome formed by gently sloping snowy slopes. From the summit, a beautiful view of the surrounding panorama opens up:

• Pik Revolyutsii,
• Pik Fikker,
• Pik 26 Baku Commissars,

REPORT

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT 4971 VIA THE SOUTHWEST RIDGE (SOUTHWEST PAMIR, NORTH SHUGNAN RANGE) BY THE VARZOB ALPINIST CLUB TEAM CONSISTING OF:

• TRONOV Yu.N. — TEAM LEADER
• BELINSKY S.F. — MEMBER
• MISHCHENKO E.A. — MEMBER
• STEFANOVICH A.V. — MEMBER Pamir-1978. TABLE OF MAIN CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ASCENT ROUTE TO PEAK 4971 VIA THE SW RIDGE EXPLANATION TO THE TABLE № (Description of the ascent route to peak 4971) From the bivouac near the rocks, the snow-ice cirque between the Southwest ridge and the Northwest edge is clearly visible.

Ascent Passport

1. Eastern Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan ridge, Moguvek gorge, section 6.1.
2. Lastochka peak, 3100 m, via the South wall.
3. Proposed 3B category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route type — rock climbing.
5. Height difference — 350 m, length — 535 m, average steepness — 50°.
6. Pitons driven: rock and chock — 28 pcs.
7. Team's traveling hours — 8 hours.
8. No overnight stays.
9. Group: Bersenev Yu.V. 1st sports category, Antonov E.V. CMS, Gerus A.O. 3rd sports category, Nabokikh K.S. 3rd sports category.

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing area, ridge: Eastern Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan ridge.
2. Peak, its height, ascent route, route type: Munku-Sardyk peak 3491 m via Western ridge, combined.
3. Expected difficulty category: 1B category.
4. Route characteristics: height difference 1100 m, average steepness 35°.
5. Pitons used: rock 1, ice 2.
6. Total climbing hours: 4 hours.
7. Full name of the leader, participants, their qualification: Yakovenko A.N. — CMS, leader Belyaev S.A. — CMS, participant

Ascent Log

1. East Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan ridge, Muguvek gorge, section 6.1.
2. Munku Sardyk — Krylya Sovetov peak traverse via the North ridge.
3. Category 2B difficulty, second ascent.
4. The route is of a combined nature.
5. Height difference 500 m, distance 3130 m, average slope 10°.
6. Pitons used: 3 rock and wired pitons.
7. Team's travel time — 12 hours.

Ascent report.

1. East Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan ridge, Moguvek gorge, section 6.1.
2. Solnechnaya peak (Tychen-Ardyn), 3192 m, via North-Eastern ridge.
3. Proposed category 2B, first ascent.
4. Route type — rocky.
5. Height difference 300 m, length 810 m, average slope 30°.
6. Pitons used: rock and wired 8 pcs.
7. Team's travel time — 5 hours.
8. No overnight stays.
9. Group:

Ascent Passport

1. East Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan ridge, Mguvek gorge, section 6.1.
2. Katka-Dura peak, 3064 m, via East ridge.
3. Proposed category 1B, first ascent.
4. Route type — rocky.
5. Height difference 300 m, length 1000 m, average slope 20°.
6. Pitons driven: rock and wired 2 pcs.
7. Team's travel time — 4 hours.
8. No overnight stays.
9. Group:

Brief Overview of the Climbing Area in the Moguvek Valley, Big Sayan Ridge

The climbing area is located in the Buryat Republic, on the border with Mongolia, in the Big Sayan Ridge and its part - the Munku Sardyk Ridge - in the upper reaches of the Moguvek and Beliy Irkut valleys. The hub of the area is the massif of Munku Sardyk mountain 3491 m - the highest point of the Sayan Mountains. The area is 300 km from Irkutsk in almost a strictly western direction. From Irkutsk to Mondy settlement, there is a good asphalt road of state importance. The road to the area goes as follows:

• From Irkutsk to Mondy settlement, there is a good asphalt road of state importance.
• From Mondy settlement - 25 km along a gravel road leading to the Okinsky district of the Buryat Republic, to the bridge across the Beliy Irkut River.
• Then the road goes to the pass.
• The path to the foot of Munku Sardyk mountain and the mountaineering training ground in the Moguvek valley runs along the canyon of the Beliy Irkut and Moguvek rivers from a height of 1400 to 2200 m, i.e., to the forest boundary. Features of the section:
• In winter, this section is traversed on ice with crampons.
• Above the canyon and the forest boundary, the Moguvek river valley is wide, trough-shaped.
• In the upper part, above the second cirque, there is a cirque lake Ehoi.

Report

On the first ascent of the national team of Karachay-Cherkessia to the summit of Klych-Kara-Kaya 3578 m via the eastern edge. Category 2B difficulty. Presumably Category 2B difficulty. Ascent on September 11, 2022.

Semenov M. A. — MS team leader Maksimov K. M. experience of 2nd sports category Alpclub — "Gornoe Bezumie" 2023

2. Caucasus

2.2 From Marukh pass to Nakhar pass

Participants of the ascent