Ascent Log

1. East Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan ridge, Muguvek gorge, section 6.1.
2. Munku Sardyk — Krylya Sovetov peak traverse via the North ridge.
3. Category 2B difficulty, second ascent.
4. The route is of a combined nature.
5. Height difference 500 m, distance 3130 m, average slope 10°.
6. Pitons used: 3 rock and wired pitons.
7. Team's travel time — 12 hours.
8. No overnight stays.
9. Team: Kurgansky N.G. 1st sports category Klepikov E.A. 3rd sports category
10. Coach Afanasyev A.E. Master of Sports
11. Approach to the route and return on May 6, 2003.

First ascent team: Dobrobaba, Tsvetkov. 1936. (V.P. Bryansky "Desired, ferocious, beautiful.").

Route description for the ascent to Munku Sardyk — Krylya Sovetov peak via the North ridge, traverse, cat. 2B.

Sect. R0–R1 150 m. 30° 1. Wide snow couloir. Sect. R1–R2 150 m. 40° 1. Snow slope. Exit to the ridge to the left of the gendarme, midway between the pass and the peak. Sect. R2–R3 150 m. 35° 1. Along the ridge — snow to the left. Sect. R3–R4 100 m. 45° 2. Rocky, crumbling slope. Exit to Munku Sardyk peak. Sect. R4–R5 300 m. 15° 1. Easy snow and scree ridge. Traverse to the right. Sect. R5–R6 200 m. 5° 1. Along the snow-covered rocky ridge. The Sineglazka gendarme is bypassed on the right. Exit to Pasmurbnaya peak. Sect. R6–R7 300 m. 30° 2. Descent: rocks, snow. Upper part — to the right of the ridge. Alternating. Sect. R7–R8 500 m. 2. Sharp ridge with short walls. Exit to Leonova peak. Sect. R8–R9 80 m. 40° 1. Snow slope with large rocks. Sect. R9–R10 50 m. 1. Wide scree ridge of the saddle. Sect. R10–R11 90 m. 30° 2. Ascent along the narrow, crumbling ridge. Exit to Aviator peak. Sect. R11–R12 100 m. 60° 3. Two sport descents. Sect. R12–R13 150 m. 3. Sharp ridge of large boulders. Vertical slab is bypassed on the right along the wall. Sect. R13–R14 150 m. 1. Flat, crumbling ridge. Gendarme is bypassed on the left. Sect. R14–R15 300 m. 2. Two gendarmes are bypassed on the right along the scree slope. Sect. R15–R16 200 m. 20° 1. Along the ridge to the east. Exit to Krylya Sovetov peak. Descent — back to the saddle and down the snow couloir to the north.