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Route Description: СЗ стене
Description of the ascent route to the summit of Aurondak (4573 m) via the central part of the North wall in the Fann Mountains, with a difficulty category of 5B.
Ascent Passport
I. Ascent class: technical 2. Ascent area: Fann Mountains 3. Peak, its height and ascent route: Mt. Aurondagh, 4573 m, via the central part of the N wall 4. Proposed complexity category: 5B category 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1374 m, average steepness — 60°, length of sections:
- R1 — 300 m
- R2 — 150 m
- R4 — 370 m
Route Description: правой части 3 стены
Description of a category 6 difficulty route to the summit of Bodhona (5302 m) via the west wall in the Fann Mountains, climbed by a team of mountaineers in 1978.
Passport
- Climbing category — high-altitude technical.
- Climbing region — Fann Mountains.
- Peak Bodhona — 5302 m via the right part of the West face (Senchin – Konchin route).
- Difficulty category — 6.
- Height difference: from the base of the wall to the summit 1400 m. Average steepness of the wall 80°. Length of sections with 6th category difficulty — 600 m.
- Number of pitons: rock — 284.
- Total climbing hours — 4930 hours.
- Number of nights on the route — 3 nights.
- Team composition:
Route Description: С ребру
The route to Maly Dzhimar peak is technically challenging, involving piton belays and varied terrain, including rocks and ridges, followed by a descent to the plateau and then to Zierat Lake.
On simple rocks, 60 m straight up to the first control cairn in a rope team. From the cairn, on black monolithic rocks of medium difficulty, 80 m straight up to the base of a pronounced inner corner. Then:
- 40 m to the right of the corner on rocks of above average difficulty;
- then bypassing a black-rigid spall on the right;
- exit to the ridge of the buttress. Protection is by pitons. Further along the left side of the ridge:
- 40 m on rocks of medium difficulty;
- 80 m on easy rocks — exit left under a 10-meter chimney. After the chimney — move right into an inner corner and 40 m of climbing of medium difficulty — exit to the ridge of the buttress under a gendarme with a red rock on it.
Route Description: пр.части С ст. бастиона
Description of a category II route to Zamok peak in the Fann Mountains, completed by a team from Rostov in 1990.
PASSPORT
- Technical category.
- Fann Mountains. Zeravshan Range. /Northern part./ Alaudin Lakes.
- p. Zamok (5070) via the right part of the northern wall of the "bastion"
- cat. III (Arkhipov's route)
- Height difference 1270 m, route length — 2142 m. Length of sections — R0–R1 cat. III — 851 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 78°
- Pitons used:
Route Description: центру С стены
Description of the first ascent of Parandas peak (4250 m) via the centre of the North face in the Fann Mountains, with a complexity category of 6A, climbed by a team of mountaineers in 2010.
Ascent Passport
- Pamiro-Alai, Zeravshan ridge, Fann Mountains. 5.3.1
- v. Parandas 4250 m via the center of the North face
- First ascent, proposed 6A category of complexity
- Route character — rocky.
- Route height difference: 850 m, wall part 780 m.
- Route length 1280 m, main part 890 m. Sections of 6th category 470 m. Sections of 5th category 180 m. Average steepness of the wall part 80°.
Route Description: В стене
Description of a technical climb category 5B to the summit of Rudaki Peak (4400 m) in the Fann Mountains, made in 1984 by a group of climbers led by Ramil Galeev.
Ascent Log
- Ascent class — technical.
- Ascent area — Fann Mountains.
- Peak Rudaki, 4400 m, via the East wall.
- Difficulty category — 5B.
- Pitons used: rock — 32, bolt — 0, chocks — 31.
- Climbing hours — 15, days — 1.
- Leader — RAIL GALEEV — Candidate Master of Sports. Participants: ALEXANDER MIROSHKIN — 1st sports category, VLADIMIR TELITCYNS — 1st sports category, VLADIMIR RUSINOV — 1st sports category.
- Coach — EVGENY MIROSHKIN.
Route Description: В ребру
Description of the 5B category difficulty route to the Chapdara peak via the Eastern ridge in the Fann Mountains, climbed by a team of climbers from Rostov-on-Don in 1987.
PASSPORT
I. Technical class. 2. Fann Mountains. Zeravshan ridge (Northern part). Alaudin lakes. 3. Chapdara peak (5050 m) via Eastern edge. 4. Category 5B (Cherevko route). 5. Elevation gain: about 1800 m. Route length 2875 m. Length of sections with U–U1 difficulty: 564 m. Average slope of the route — 57°. Average slope of the wall section — 62°. 6. Pitons hammered: rock 101 (2 used), bolted 6, chocks 154 (6 used), ice screws 3.
Route Description: СЗ стене
Ascent to the summit of Chapdara via the North-West wall in Pamir-Alay, made by the team of the Novosibirsk mountaineering club in 1990.
6B. 5B cat. diff. (Not on the paperwork) — to be credited as 6B 131 PASSPORT.
- Technical class.
- Pamir-Alay, Fann Mountains, Zeravshan Range.
- Chapdara peak via the Northwest wall.
- 6B cat. diff.
- Height difference: 1500 m, length — 1870 m. Length of 6th grade sections — 380 m.
Route Description: центру СВ стены
Report on the ascent of the Krasnoyarsk GCF and S team to **Peak Cherny** (5010 m) via the center of the northeast wall in 1973.
PASSPORT
of the ascent made in the 1973 USSR Alpine Climbing Championship.
- Ascent category — technically challenging.
- Ascent area — Fan Mountains, Surkhob Valley.
- Ascent route with indication of peaks and elevations — via the center of the northeast face of Chyorny Peak (5010 m).
- Ascent characteristics: elevation gain — 1450–1500 m, average steepness — 87–88°, length of complex sections — 1094 m.
- Number of anchors installed:
- rock anchors — 288,
- 9 ice anchors in rock,
- 8 wooden wedges;
Route Description: СВ ребру
Ascent to the summit of Volnaya Ispaniya (4200 m) via the NE edge, category 5B difficulty level, description of the route and tactics of the ascent by the team in 1988.
- Climbing type — rock climbing.
- Climbing area — Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range.
- Peak: Volnaya Ispaniya (4200 m) via the NE edge.
- Category 5B complexity (Subortovich route)
- Route characteristics: Average steepness of the main wall section — 78°. Average steepness — 48°. Height difference — 480 m. Length of sections: Category difficulty section — 135 m.
- Pitons hammered in: | rock | ice | bolt | chocks | |:----:|:---:|:------:|:-----:| | 18 + 11^X | 7 | 2^X | 19 |