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Route Description: с пер. Белалакая
### Ascent Route to Malaya Bedalakaya Peak from Bedalakay Pass Category III difficulty. The route involves a technically challenging ascent with steep snow and ice slopes. Climbers should be experienced in using crampons and ice axes. The ascent is approximately [insert distance] with a height gain of [insert height gain]. Key recommendations include careful rope fixing and maintaining a steady pace to manage crevasse risks and steep terrain challenges.
| 1. Climbing category | — rock climbing |
|---|---|
| 2. Climbing area | — Western Caucasus, from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass. |
| 3. Peak, climbing route | — M. Belalakaya from Belalakayskiy pass |
| 4. Estimated category of difficulty | — 3B |
| 5. Route characteristics: | — combined |
| Elevation gain | — 750 m |
| Average steepness of the route | — 35° |
| Length of grade 3 sections | — 240 m |
| Length of grade 4 sections | — 55 m |
Route Description: СЗ склону
Report on the ascent to the summit Malaya Belalakaya 3748 m via the center of the northern wall, made by a group of instructors from the Alplager "Alibek" in 1982.
Report
on the ascent to the summit of Malaya Belalakaya 3748 m via the center of the northern wall, made by a group of instructors from the "Alibek" alpine camp.
Group composition:
- Abarbachuk Georgiy Samuilovich, Candidate Master of Sports, 2nd category instructor-methodologist.
- Boyko Viktor Viktorovich, Candidate Master of Sports, 2nd category instructor-methodologist.
Head of the training department — Master of Sports of the USSR Kovalenko Yuriy Ivanovich
DOMBAY
1982
Route Description: СВ гребню
Description of the 2B category complexity route to the summit of Dalovchat (Uzlovaya, 3680 m) via the north-eastern ridge in the Western Caucasus.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class — rock climbing
- Ascent area — Western Caucasus from Marukh pass to Nakhara pass
- Peak, height, ascent route — Dzhalovchat (Uzlovaya), 3680 m, via the northeast ridge, combined, first ascent.
- Proposed category of difficulty — 2B
- Route characteristics: height difference — 480 m, length of sections: category I difficulty — 1240 m, category II difficulty — 830 m, category III difficulty — 60 m, Total — 2130 m, average steepness of the ridge section — 35°
- Pitons hammered: rock, ice, bolt, placed elements. | for belay | 6 | 1 | - | 10 | |---|---|---|---|---|
Route Description: расщелине СЗ стены
Description of a new 6B category route to the summit of **Domбай-Ullery (Dombay-Western)** via the North-West face, climbed by a group of Irkutsk climbers in February 2005.
Ascent Passport
- Main Caucasus Range, from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass, Ptysh river gorge, No. 2.2 according to KVGK.
- Dombay Western peak, via the northwest wall cleft. The ascent is dedicated to the memory of climber-warriors who perished in the Caucasus mountains during the Great Patriotic War.
- Proposed category of difficulty: 6B — first ascent.
- Route type: combined.
- Route height difference: 1104 m. Route length: 1240 m. Length of sections: category V — 350 m, category VI — 460 m. Average slope: 82 ° for the main part of the route, 72 ° for the entire route.
- Number of pitons left on the route: 25 total, including 21 bolts.
Route Description: 3 ребру
Description of the route along the western counterfort of the Western Dombay-Ulgen mountain, category of difficulty 5B, with a detailed analysis of the ascent stages and terrain characteristics.
MAIN CHARACTERISTICS TABLE OF THE SECTION
| Date | Designation | Average steepness | Length | Relief character |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 28 August 1980 | 0–1 | 35 | 200 | Sheep's backs |
| Entered the route at 7:00 | 1–2 | 45 | 300 | Ridge |
| 2–3 | 80 | 40 | Internal corner | |
| 3–4 | 70 | 240 | Counterfort | |
| Set up for the night at 18:00 | 4–5 | 45 | 80 | Ridge, shelves |
| 29 August 1980 | 5–6 | 90 | 40 | Wall |
| Started the route at 8:00 | 6–7 | 50 | 30 | Narrow ridge |
Route Description: 3 стене сурка
Report on the ascent of Pik Purovsky via the western wall in 1953 by the CS TSO "Avangard" team, describing a challenging route of category 5B complexity.
Report
On the ascent of Peak Shchurovsky via the West face (through the "Gendarme" "Surkov")
Central Council of the DSO "Avangard"
Kiev — 1967
Data on team members
| № п/п | Surname, name, patronymic | Year of birth | Nationality | Party affiliation | Sports rank | Climbing experience | Primary profession | Place of residence |
|---|
Route Description: 3 стене сурка
Report on the winter ascent by a team to Peak Shchurovsky via the West face "Surka" and the edge of the North face bastion, cat. 5.5, in January-February 1983.
Report
on the ascent of the Leningrad Sports Committee team to Peak Shchurovsky via the Western wall "Surka" and the edge of the bastion of the Northern wall, category 5B (variant) Team captain — S.G. Kalmykov Team coach — A.I. Moshnikov Central Caucasus January – February 1983
Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of Peak Shchurovsky
Peak Shchurovsky is located in the Main Caucasian Range, which forms a complex zigzag in this area. The south-eastern ridge descends to the Western peak of Chatyn-Tau, and the north-eastern ridge descends to the Lожный Chatyn pass. To the south of the peak, reaching an altitude of 4100 m, is the famous Ushba plateau, descending along the western slopes of the peak with a grandiose Ushba icefall. The northern wall of the peak faces the Shkheldinsky glacier. On its kilometer-long slope, cut by snow and ice couloirs, the upper bastion stands out with a dark steep face, the right edge of which rests on the north-western counterfort, having a steep western wall. The rocks of the bastion and the western wall "Surka" are characterized by their monolithic nature and smoothed relief, reminiscent of the relief:
Route Description: С ребру
Ascent via the north wall of Pik Shchurovskogo, a 5B category route completed by the "Avanard" team in 1962.
REPORT
ON THE ASCENT OF THE NORTH FACE OF PIK SHCHUROVSKOGO
Central Council of the Sports Society
"Avangard"
Kiev — 1962
Profile of the lower part of the large rock island. Sections of the wall R7–R10. Photograph taken by V. Bocharov during the ascent of the northeast wall of Pik Shchurovskogo on July 14, 1962.
Introduction
Pik Shchurovskogo (4259) is located in the Central Caucasus and is situated in the ridge that borders the Shkheldy glacier from the northeast.
Route Description: СВ стене
Climbing passport of a winter ascent of 5B category of complexity to Peak Shchurovsky (4259 m) via the North-Eastern wall in the Central Caucasus.
Ascent Passport
- Class — winter.
- Central Caucasus.
- Peak Shchurovsky, 4259 m, via the northeast wall (V. Abalakov's route).
- Category of difficulty: 5B.
- Height difference: 800 m, length – 1050 m. Length of sections with category 6 difficulty — 220 m. Length of sections with category 5 difficulty — 780 m. Average steepness of the route — 68°. Average steepness of the main sections — 75°.
- Number of pitons driven | Rock | Nut | Ice | Bolt | | :--- | :--- | :--- | :--- |
Route Description: с пер. Тоокомо
### Route 2Ак to Studencheskaya Peak (4152 m) via the West Ridge A detailed guide from the "Kyrgyzata" alpine camp to the summit, covering the ascent route along the West Ridge to Studencheskaya Peak (4152 m).
Studencheskaya
Sudencheskaya (4152 m) is a solitary, inconspicuous peak located in a short southern spur of the Northern Kichik-Llaysky ridge behind the Tookomo scree pass. The ridges of the peak descend to the west and east parallel to the Northern ridge, forming rising cirques beneath it. Only pioneers have reached the summit: M. Toktobaev, R. Agileva, V. Klishevich, A. Kursky, E. Penkova, E. Pervasheva, who ascended the peak on May 1, 1962, from the Tookomo pass. 39. Studencheskaya from the north via the Western ridge couloir The route is combined, category 2A (fig. 5, 8, 46, 4Ya). Length — 400 m, time — 6–7 hours. From the "Kyrgyzata" alpine camp (group of 2-4 people):
- Cross the bridge over the Kurgan river and ascend along the road on the left slope of the Kurgan gorge.
- Having passed the juniper forest, approach the green cape — a hill in the center of the gorge.