Route to the summit of Джанги via NE ridge, cat. 4B (D. Kokkin, 1888)

The initial bivouac is at the Джанги-кош hut or closer to the route — on the snowy plateau (Шхара glacier) of the northern cirque of Зап. Шхара under the base of the rocky spur of the NE ridge of Джанги-тау. Scheme of the 4B route via NE ridge. Photo from the Джанги-кош hut (A. Yurkin).

Approach to the route

1st option:

• Move along the Безенгийский glacier and further along the ridge of the right-bank moraine of its Eastern branch to the overnight stays located opposite the Southern cirque of п. Семеновского (5–5.5 hours from the alpine camp).
• Here, descend to the glacier and cross it, exiting under the icefall that flows to the left of the rocky base of the NE ridge of Вост. Джанги-тау.
• Ascend to the plateau of the northern cirque of Зап. Шхара via the icefall at a safe distance (with ice falls at the top) from the walls of the NE ridge, taking 3–4 hours from the moraine. 2nd option. Move along the right-bank moraine of the Eastern branch of the Безенгийский glacier to the "Austrian overnight stays" (5–6 hours), then:
• Descend to the glacier;

10. Sandro Glavnaya via the Southern spur of the Eastern ridge (rock route, category 2A, Fig. 2, 4). From the base camp (point 1), traverse right along the southern grassy and talus slopes to reach a broad talus saddle of the Lekchumsky ridge and ascend to the saddle of the Southern spur of Sandro Glavnaya's Eastern ridge via easy, crumbling rocks. 1–1.5 hours from the base camp. Turn left onto the saddle and approach the Big Gendarme via simple, crumbling rocks on the right side of the Southern spur, featuring several easy 2–3-meter walls. Bypass the Gendarme on the left, descending through a narrow couloir and exiting onto a narrow gap via talus. From the gap, ascend 15–18 meters up steep rocks to the right (belay). Then, ascend simple rocks up and left to a broad gap beneath the ascent of the southern slope of Sandro Glavnaya's Eastern ridge. From the gap (crux, loose rocks, pitons), ascend 12–15 meters up the rocks of the ascent to a ledge beneath a vertical wall. Traverse right along the ledge (belay) to bypass the wall, then ascend easy rocks and talus to reach a broad saddle between Sandro and SamertsKhle peaks (large cairn). 2–2.5 hours from the base camp.

Climbing Passport of Voskoboev and Orlov

1. Climbing category: 2B
2. Climbing area: Caucasus, North spur of Ukru
3. Peak: Malaya Ukyu, via rock counterfort
4. Proposed category difficulty: 2B
5. Character: rocky; elevation gain: 460 m, average steepness: 35°, length: 620 m
6. Pitons driven for protection: rock 6, ice –, used chocks 1
7. Movement time: 9.5 hours
8. Number of nights: –
9. Participants: Gashnogo V.N. — 1st category — leader, Koshevnick B.L. — MS — member, Stepanov E.P. — CMS, Naranenko V.L. — 1st category, Meshalkin N.P. — 1st category, Konin M.M. — 1st category, Danichkina L.G. — 1st category

53. Traversing Pik Tikhonov - Koshtantau with ascent to Pik Tikhonov via the Northern Counterfort - Category 5A (E. Abalakov and V. Miklyashevsky - August 25-29, 1938; Figs. 10, II, 13, 17). The route from the Bezengi alpine camp to Pik Tikhonov via the Northern Counterfort is described in route 40. From Pik Tikhonov, descend via simple, crumbling rocks and a snowy slope to the saddle on the Eastern Ridge. Set up a bivouac on the saddle. From the initial bivouac - 8-9 hours. From the bivouac:

• Ascend rocks of medium difficulty to the first gendarme on the Western Ridge of Koshtantau.
• Traverse or circumvent the second and third gendarmes along the ridge or via ledges and slopes on their right side, reaching the saddle below the fourth gendarme.
• From the saddle, ascend a 60-meter ridge and a 5-meter chimney to reach the ledges.
• Traverse the ledges to the right and upwards to reach the Southern Counterfort of the fourth gendarme.
• Ascend the counterfort, bypassing a rocky "finger" on the left via ledges, to reach the gendarme and descend to the Western Ridge. The fourth gendarme can be circumvented on the right:
• Descend 10 meters down the wall to the right while traversing it.

1. Climbing class: technical
2. Region: Central Caucasus
3. Summit: p. Semenovskogo 4050 m, from the northeast
4. Difficulty category: 3B
5. Route characteristics: ice elevation gain — 700 m, average route steepness — 45 °
6. Pitons driven: for belay, for creating artificial holds | | rock | ice | | :---------- | :--- | :--- |

1. Gidan via 3rd ridge, 1B.

From the “Ukyu-kosh” hut ascend along the left side of the gorge along the S slope, then through the “pocket” between the slope and the terminal moraine of the M. Ukyu glacier to the gray talus. Next:

• Up left along the edge of the talus and the spur that bounds it on the right, to the end of the spur, where the gray talus goes left into a steep couloir (rockfall hazard from the left).
• Continue in the same direction along the boundary between the black talus and the rocks on the left until you reach the “pocket” between the slope of the 3rd ridge and the low right-bank (orographically) moraine of the upper Gidan cirque — 1.5–2 hours. From the KSP “Golubyatnya” shelter (under the “watermelon”) it is advisable to ascend to the upper Gidan cirque along the goat trail to the right of the spur — 1–1.5 hours. Through the “pocket” (may be snowy) to where the moraine meets the slope, then left and up along the talus and snowfields to ascend to the 3rd ridge — 1–1.5 hours. Along the narrow snowy ridge through small “gendarms,” then along the broad snowy ridge left of the “gendarms” to a sharp snowy saddle at the junction of the 3rd and SE ridges.
• Up the wall (pitons for protection)
• Bypass the pre-summit “gendarme” on the SE ridge on the left to reach the saddle under the summit tower

12. Samertskhle Zapadnaya via Western Ridge (rock climbing route, A. Naumova, category 3B difficulty, fig. 2, 4). On the wide col of the massif between the peaks of Sandro and Samertskhle (big tour, landmark 10) turn right and move along the simple 200–300-meter wide Western Ridge of Samertskhle Zapadnaya, overcoming low gendarmes and ascents head-on. Then 8–10 m along the sharp medium-difficulty (belay) Western Ridge. Further along the ledges and simple rocks on the right side of the Western Ridge. Bypass the "Jvari" gendarme on the right (belay), approach the summit ascent. From here, traverse right along narrow ledges to reach a rib, from which a 30 m traverse to the right along smooth slabs (pitons) leads to a narrow vertical couloir - chimney. Up the couloir - chimney ("live" stones) 10 m to a ledge, and from it up a steep smooth 30-meter slab (pitons) to a narrow ledge. Along the intermittent narrow ledge under the overhanging walls, traverse with a slight ascent to the right onto a narrow saddle of the Southern Rib. On the saddle, turn left and, bypassing the overhanging stones, ascend 40 m up the medium-difficulty wall ("live" stones, pitons). Further along simple rocks, ascend to the summit of Samertskhle Zapadnaya. From the big tour, the exit point to the massif's col, 5–6 hours. Descent option along the simple rocks of the Eastern Ridge to the saddle. From the saddle, to the right (south) and down along the easy simple destroyed rocks of the couloir (stones). Further:

• Descent along the snow-ice slope to the grassy slopes
• Along the grassy slopes through the saddle of the Lechumi Ridge
• Return to the base camp

Appendix No. 1 to the Unified Requirements for Classification Report Report Form for Routes 1B–3B Category of Difficulty REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT MUKAL VIA ROUTE 2A CATEGORY OF DIFFICULTY BY THE TEAM OF MAC "Freeline" FROM PYATIGORSK ON JUNE 10, 2021

I. Ascent Passport