
- Sandro Glavnaya via the Southern spur of the Eastern ridge (rock route, category 2A, Fig. 2, 4). From the base camp (point 1), traverse right along the southern grassy and talus slopes to reach a broad talus saddle
of the Lekchumsky ridge and ascend to the saddle of the Southern spur of Sandro Glavnaya's Eastern ridge via easy, crumbling rocks. 1–1.5 hours from the base camp.
Turn left onto the saddle and approach the Big Gendarme via simple, crumbling rocks on the right side of the Southern spur, featuring several easy 2–3-meter walls. Bypass the Gendarme on the left, descending through a narrow couloir and exiting onto a narrow gap via talus. From the gap, ascend 15–18 meters up steep rocks to the right (belay). Then, ascend simple rocks up and left to a broad gap beneath the ascent of the southern slope of Sandro Glavnaya's Eastern ridge. From the gap (crux, loose rocks, pitons), ascend 12–15 meters up the rocks of the ascent to a ledge beneath a vertical wall. Traverse right along the ledge (belay) to bypass the wall, then ascend easy rocks and talus to reach a broad saddle between Sandro and SamertsKhle peaks (large cairn). 2–2.5 hours from the base camp.
Turn left onto the saddle and approach a broad Gendarme of Sandro Glavnaya's Eastern ridge via its simple, lengthy rocky crest. Pass the Gendarme head-on via easy rocks, descending to the right from it. Continue along easy, crumbling rocks on the right side of the Eastern ridge to approach the Southeast Gendarme. From here, traverse right across talus rocks, a short ledge, through a narrow, steep snow-ice couloir, and again across talus to reach a talus-filled couloir descending from the gap between the Southeast Gendarme and the summit. Turn left here and ascend the narrowing talus couloir, bypassing a rocky plug on the left (belay), to reach a narrow gap. On the gap, turn right and, bypassing an overhanging rock on the left, ascend simple, steep rocks (belay), then a steep talus to reach Sandro Glavnaya's summit. 3–3.5 hours from the large cairn.
