1. Gidan via 3rd ridge, 1B.

From the “Ukyu-kosh” hut ascend along the left side of the gorge along the S slope, then through the “pocket” between the slope and the terminal moraine of the M. Ukyu glacier to the gray talus.

Next:

• Up left along the edge of the talus and the spur that bounds it on the right, to the end of the spur, where the gray talus goes left into a steep couloir (rockfall hazard from the left).
• Continue in the same direction along the boundary between the black talus and the rocks on the left until you reach the “pocket” between the slope of the 3rd ridge and the low right-bank (orographically) moraine of the upper Gidan cirque — 1.5–2 hours.

From the KSP “Golubyatnya” shelter (under the “watermelon”) it is advisable to ascend to the upper Gidan cirque along the goat trail to the right of the spur — 1–1.5 hours.

Through the “pocket” (may be snowy) to where the moraine meets the slope, then left and up along the talus and snowfields to ascend to the 3rd ridge — 1–1.5 hours.

Along the narrow snowy ridge through small “gendarms,” then along the broad snowy ridge left of the “gendarms” to a sharp snowy saddle at the junction of the 3rd and SE ridges.

• Up the wall (pitons for protection)
• Bypass the pre-summit “gendarme” on the SE ridge on the left to reach the saddle under the summit tower
• Then 20 m up and right to the summit — 1.5–2 hours.

Descent is via the ascent route. From the summit 1.5–2 hours.